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Messages - gmac

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1711
All Grain Brewing / Re: What would you call this beer?
« on: June 01, 2011, 03:14:34 PM »

And, knowing the state of beer in Ontario, it's probably just about as hard to find in the LCBO or the duty free shops. (grumble, grumble).

The LCBO is the only place you can regularly find it.  The Beer Store sometimes has it but not always.  Duty Free?  Probably never. 

There's only 3 places you can usually buy beer in Ontario. 
The brewery.
LCBO - Liquor Control Board of Ontario - owned by the Government
The Beer Store - A brewery owned monopoly that controls beer sales in Ontario - not government controlled despite what most people think.

1712
I've lost my book.  Any psychic's on here?  Please tell me where I left it.

Have you looked in the bathroom?

It's in your purse.  You'll have to empty it all out to find it.

Ouch!

1713
I've lost my book.  Any psychic's on here?  Please tell me where I left it.

1714
The Pub / Re: NASA Crawler
« on: May 31, 2011, 05:21:44 PM »
Been working in near 100* heat today.......I thoughrt this was a thread about NASCAR.  :-\
I know how you feel.  I was really disappointed on the weekend when "Homemade Soup" turned out to be "Homemade Soap".  Mis-reading a thread is a huge let-down.

1715
Beer Recipes / Re: First Time Saison
« on: May 31, 2011, 05:15:35 PM »
All I can say is good luck and I'll be watching this thread since I am about to do the same. 

1716
All Grain Brewing / Re: What would you call this beer?
« on: May 31, 2011, 02:30:51 PM »
I'd agree with the American amber ale category.

What amber cream ale are you so fond of?
The one I really like is Muskoka Cream Ale from here in Ontario.  Probably impossible to find in the US.  It's just a nice drinking beer with a bit more flavour and mouthfeel than a traditional cream ale.  It's supposed to be made with barley, hops, yeast and water (I'm not gonna try to spell Reinheitsgebot).  No corn but I put some in.  Not overwhelmingly hoppy but nicely balanced with more malt profile.  I think they market it as a cream ale instead of a brown because it's fermented a bit colder than normal from what I've been able to find out.  I'm trying to keep mine around 62-65 degrees as well although that's getting tougher.  Swamp cooler time I guess.

1717
All Grain Brewing / Re: What would you call this beer?
« on: May 31, 2011, 08:56:57 AM »
Looks to me like an American Amber Ale, or maybe Brown if it gets that dark.

http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style10.php#1b

Sound about right to you?

Sounds pretty close.  I'm considering entering one in a competition (I'm also a member of CABA and they have some coming up) so I am curious what style it is closest to.

Today's version changed a bit.  Only had 1/4 lb of C45 open so it got a 1/4 lb of C120 as well.  Wasn't gonna open a 5 lb bag just for a few ounces.  Expecting colour from the C120 so I backed down the chocolate to 75 g instead of 100.  I'm glad it will still fit into the style type that Denny recommended...


1718
All Grain Brewing / What would you call this beer?
« on: May 31, 2011, 08:26:55 AM »
I've been making a beer for a while now, slightly tweaking the recipe and I really like what I've been making but I'm not really sure what "style" it would fall into.  It was started as a clone of an amber cream ale that I really love but I think that this probably doesn't really exist as a standard style anyway.

The grain bill is very simple.
9 lbs 2-row
100 grams Chocolate malt
1 lb flaked corn - I added this because a lot of CA recipes seem to include corn but I'm considering leaving it out because I'm unsure what it is doing for the beer besides adding fermentables.
0.5 lbs Crystal 45 - I've done it with and without as well and although I like it without, my significant other likes the slight sweetness that this provides so it now goes in.
Mash at 152 degrees for 60-75 min, assume 85% efficiency.

The latest and I think best iteration of a hopping schedule is:
1 oz Cascade FWH
1/2 oz Northern Brewer at 60
1/2 oz Cascade at 15 mins
1/2 oz Cascade at flameout steeped for about 10 mins
WLP001 yeast
Fermented at about 65 degrees
Final beer is between 15 and 20 SRM, mildly hoppy with decent bitterness, very smooth and drinkable with nice colour and excellent head retention.
So, what should I be calling this?
Thanks




1719
Yeast and Fermentation / Yeast still good?
« on: May 30, 2011, 08:23:38 PM »
I racked a beer to the keg on Friday but I didn't have time to do anything about rinsing the yeast for re-use.  It's been sitting in the carboy with a little bit of beer over it since Friday.  I put the plug back in covered it with aluminum foil.  Is there any reason I can't still use it?  There's no indication of mold or anything so I'm hoping to rinse it tomorrow and split it for 2-5 gal batches.  Mr. Malty says I need about 125 ml of slurry and there should be more than enough for two carboys but I didn't get it into the fridge when I should have so I'm not sure what to do.  

1720
Yeast and Fermentation / Harvesting yeast from a can
« on: May 29, 2011, 11:04:44 PM »
One of my favourite breweries is selling, for a limited time, a kellerbiere and I'm thinking of trying to harvest yeast.  Supposedly, the beer is unpasteurized and unfiltered so there should be some yeast in it right?  I will say, I haven't noticed much in the way of yeast sediment in the cans although there could be a little bit.  It could be dry beer too though. 

I'm making a few assumptions here such as, the yeast is the same yeast they'd use in the primary.  It's the same yeast they use for their regular lager that I love and want to duplicate. 

Any thoughts?  I was thinking of flaming the tops and just pouring off a couple beer that I've let sit for a few days in the fridge into glasses (and drinking the beer...).  Then, cutting the cans in half, swirling a bit of boiled and chilled water in the cans and pitching that into a small jar of wort and seeing what happens.  But, I am sure that there is a better way.  Please bear in mind I have absolutely no special equipment.  This will be mason jars with tin foil on them, not Erlenmeyer flasks and stir plates.
Thanks

1721
All Grain Brewing / Re: Going from 5 to 10 gal batches
« on: May 29, 2011, 07:53:24 PM »
I'll be using a 55 gal Coleman Extreme.  15 gal boil kettle which will be pretty full. I normally mash in at 2 L/lb but I'll probably drop it down to 1.75 or a bit less depending on volume.  Grist will be about 20 lbs.  Far as I can tell, as long as I can get the lid closed, I should be good.

1722
All Grain Brewing / Going from 5 to 10 gal batches
« on: May 29, 2011, 10:08:20 AM »
I'm running through my good brews a bit too quickly and I'm going to go to 10 gals for the ones I drink most so that I can brew a bit less frequently or catch up quicker if I fall behind.  Just wondering, is it as simple as just doubling everything?  Are there any changes in mashing schedule or anything or is it just doubling the grist and water and doubling the hops and yeast? 
Please let me know if there are any watchouts that I should be aware of.
Thanks

1723
Ingredients / Re: Deformed Hop Plant
« on: May 27, 2011, 09:32:38 AM »
If the leaves are more cupped, I'd go with low rate of herbicide drift injury.  Lawn sprays are almost all comprised of phenoxy herbicides like I mentioned above which causes that symptom.  I'm not that far from you (I'm in Ontario) and so I know we've both had a heck of a wet spring but I don't think that would cause it although I'm not as familiar with hops as with row crops.

It could grow out of it depending on the rate.  I've done titration trials down into the ppb range and these sorts of products are very active, even at ultra-low rates.  If it grows out of the damage and bears cones, I would use them but not everyone would.  Thing is, if the plant recovers then the herbicide has been metabolized or degraded sufficiently for the plant to over come it which means that any residue in the cones would be at an incredibly low rate but if you have concerns about using the cones, that's your choice.  If the plants survive and I think they likely will as long as the growing point is not killed (still growing even though distorted), they should be fine next year.

You could remove the mulch and replace it on the off-chance that it was a carry-over problem with the mulch but I don't think that's as likely.  More likely is drift from a neighbour or yourself applying lawn chemicals.  Some of them exhibit a phenomenon called vapour drift where the product will volatilize and move off-target even if there was absolutely no wind (dicamba is particularly notorious for this).  I burnt my hydrangea last year and I think I know what I'm doing.  It happens a lot when temps get really high.   

1724
Ingredients / Re: Deformed Hop Plant
« on: May 26, 2011, 09:25:06 PM »
I'm not sold on herbicide damage although it's possible.  Rapid growth from 2,4-D or dicamba (both part of standard lawn spray) overspray causes epinastic growth which results in twisting and cupping.  These herbicides are IAA mimics (indolacetic acid) which duplicate plant hormones responsible for cell elongation which is what leads to the distortion.  Thing is, if it was a very low rate of drift I would expect more cupping of the leaves and leaf elongation.  At higher rates, the leaves become small and stunted but the stem becomes dramatically twisted.

My thoughts are that virus is the most likely.  Some of the "mosaic" viruses can cause similar growth although it is often accompanied by light and dark patterning of the leaves (in a mosaic pattern, hence the name).  Aphids were also mentioned and many viruses are vectored by aphids or other sucking pests.  Can't say for sure that this is the case but that's my guess based on the pictures. 

Just to back this up, I spent over 10 years doing formulation chemistry screening for a major agriculture herbicide company and I am a certified crop advisor and agronomist so I'm not completely guessing.  I'd say either a virus or herbicide drift.  Not sure that it came in the mulch, kind of unlikely because most of the herbicides used today have very little carry-over but it's possible I guess.

If it's herbicide damage, it should grow out of it next year.  If it's a virus, they'll likely die.  Sorry.

1725
Beer Recipes / Re: American IPA Recipe - Help
« on: May 25, 2011, 12:11:12 PM »
I didn't say not to do the Am. IPA.  The British ones are good drinkers too!  I have some of both aging/dry hopping in the basement.
Ah...I see.  I thought you were suggesting an either/or scenario.  I will definitely do the British one soon.  I prefer British beer in general.  This is more for someone else (although I'll drink my fair share).

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