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Messages - gmac

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I'm curious too. 
For kegs, I've just been hooking up the CO2 to the inlet and turning it on slowly to fill the bottom of the keg.  Like the OP, I'm thinking it's heavier than air so it should just stay down there right?  As long as my siphon is on the bottom, the gas should just rise up with the beer until it's full shouldn't it?  Or am I working under false assumptions?

Ingredients / Re: "Sparkloid" finings
« on: May 02, 2011, 09:10:05 PM »
I'm sorry Gordon but I can't find the reference you mentioned in the mead information.  Could you post a link?  I may buy some gelatin finings or something else if this isn't that good in beer.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water volumes for low gravity beers
« on: May 02, 2011, 06:19:24 PM »
Well, I really screwed this one up.  Put in 20L at the start with 6 lbs pale malt, 1/2 lb C45 and 1/2 lb 1-minute Oats (man I hope I didn't have to cook those).

Sparged with "some water" but didn't measure this time which I should have and I've always done before.  Ended up with about 30L of wort.  I also dialed back my boil intensity based on some previous questions.  I think I only boiled off about 5L because I ended up with 25L of 1.034 wort (anyone wanna guess at the % efficiency?  I have no idea what to do with oatmeal).  I should have taken a gravity before flameout but I was eyeballing it.  Was shooting for 1.040, ended up at 1.034 so this will be nice and mild.  Probably over hopped too (3/4 oz NB at 60, 3/4 oz EKG at 15, 1 oz of Willamette at flameout) but oh well, this is the first go.

Did get 6 L of starter for the next time.

Yeast and Fermentation / Hops in a starter
« on: May 02, 2011, 03:00:34 PM »
Screwed up my volumes for a mild and I ended up with too much wort that is a bit too weak.  I should have taken a gravity before I put it into the carboy but I didn't.  Lesson learned.
Now I have about 5 L of wort with hops in it.  Can this be kept and used for starter?  I'd re-boil it after freezing anyway but it seems a waste to pitch it if it can be used.  OG is 1.034

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fastest Turnaround Time?
« on: May 02, 2011, 12:33:51 PM »
I've seen this on here a lot and I'm just not hip to all the lingo you kids use these days.  What's IIRC mean?
I know OMG, BRB and RDWHAHB.  I think I know what STFU means (soft thermal flannel underwear?).  After that I'm lost.

All Grain Brewing / Snap, crackle, BURP!
« on: May 02, 2011, 10:31:53 AM »
I'm making a mild with oatmeal right now and I was asking about using corn which lead to a discussion about using popcorn so now I'm wondering if Rice Krispies cereal would work in a light lager?  I tried a search but got nothing for puffed rice or Rice Krispies. 
Anyone ever tried it?  Any thoughts?  It's obviously cooked already so it shouldn't need to be gelatinized and it's fortified with 100% of your daily dose of riboflavin and is part of a delicious breakfast so it should have some nutrients that the yeast could use.
Just curious if anyone's given it a whirl.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water volumes for low gravity beers
« on: May 02, 2011, 07:46:25 AM »
Thanks.  I'll add another lb of pale malt and give it a try.

Sounds like some sugar is left in the grain, I may try to do a few extra liters to get some of the sugars and freeze it or use it right away for a starter.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water volumes for low gravity beers
« on: May 01, 2011, 03:58:48 PM »
Google Mashwater 3.3, download it, and all your problwems will be over.

I thought bacon was the answer to all life's problems? 
I googled it and found what I thought was a link but no luck. 
Also, I am doubtful it'll work on a Mac. 
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try again.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water volumes for low gravity beers
« on: May 01, 2011, 11:01:42 AM »
What gravity are you shooting for?  

Do you really have a 3L dead space?

No, almost no dead space but I know I put in 22L, get out 14L.  I'm measuring the volume going in and out.  If I let it sit for 1/2 an hour or more, I will get maybe an extra liter but it runs very, very slowly, practically a trickle.

Are you really boiling off 2.5 gallons?

I'm boiling off about 6 liters - sometimes have a liter left in the bottom of the pot with the hop sludge since I accidentally flushed my hop bag (long story).  I may be  boiling too aggressively but it's been working so I've left things about the same.

I was thinking of about 5.5 lbs of pale malt, 1/2 lb C45, 1/2 lb instant oats for more body, 50 grams of chocolate malt, mostly for colour. 6.5 lbs of fermentables.  Yeast will be London III used for the 3rd and last time.  1/2 oz of Northern Brewer at 60, 1/2 oz of East Kent Goldings at 15, 1/2 oz of EKG at flameout.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP001 vs Wyeast
« on: May 01, 2011, 08:35:52 AM »

They are completely different yeasts.  Comparing krausen really doesn't tell you anything.

That's what I wanted to know, thanks.  
I'm not really comparing krausen, I'm comparing lack of krausen which is what made me wonder.  This is looking more like a lager than an ale right now.  I know, I know RDWHAHB...

All Grain Brewing / Water volumes for low gravity beers
« on: May 01, 2011, 08:32:05 AM »
I'm wondering how I would manage the water volumes for a lower gravity brew?
Right now, I'm putting 22-23L of water into my tun which equates to about 2L/lb because I'm usually at about 10 lbs total grist.  From this I normally get about 14L of wort at around 1.070-1.072.  I then add 16 to 18L of hot water, batch sparge and get about 16L of second runnings for a total of 30L which works out very well for my 23L fermenters.  I don't take the gravity of the second runnings but I do take the gravity of the final pre-boil volume which has been about 1.044 or so the last couple times.  

But, I want to reduce the gravity of my beer down to 1.040 OG, post boil.  I will reduce my grain bill accordingly but what do I do with the water volumes?  If I stay at 2L/lb, I'll only put in about 12L at the start and I expect I'll only get about 8L back from that.  Do I then put 22 more in the tun for the sparge or should I stick with the 22/16 ratio?  I know less grain will hold less water so I may not get as much absorption so 20/14 may give me what I need but I'll still have over 3L/lb in the mash tun.  Is this a problem?  I see most people are somewhere around 1-1.5L/lb, I started there but got better efficiency at 2L/lb.  

Yeast and Fermentation / WLP001 vs Wyeast
« on: May 01, 2011, 08:18:38 AM »
I'm not gonna mention the Wyeast # because I don't want this to turn into another Rush discussion but are WLP001 and Wyeast California lager the same yeast?  I brewed the other day with WLP001 and right now things look very very similar in terms of how the yeast is acting.  Given that White Labs call theirs a California Ale and not a lager, I was thinking I'd see more aggressive fermentation and more krausen but right now, not much. 

Anyway, just wondering if there is any appreciable difference between the two.

The Pub / Re: Weed and Feed?
« on: May 01, 2011, 08:13:30 AM »
Personally, it wouldn't bother me one bit if they just outlawed all the chemical fertilizers and such.  Nobody needs "perfect" or "better than the Jones's" lawns.

My lawns never been perfect but they banned "Cosmetic" herbicide use here in Ontario a couple years ago.  Basically, you can't spray your lawn.  A lot of people were pretty upset and a bunch just do it anyway.  Biggest thing I've noticed is public parks are pretty weedy now but otherwise, no big deal.  I do find it frustrating that golf courses are exempt because they are a "business" and they are one of the largest users of weed control products and fertilizers.

I worked in formulation screening for a major ag chem company for many years and I can tell you that most of the products on the market today are pretty safe when used properly.  Most farmers use them wisely because they are looking to maximize profit and chemicals are expensive so any way they can reduce product reduces cost.  Homeowners don't think this way and usually over do their applications.

Here we can get our water report that lists what major ag chemicals are in the water.  Mine's pretty good but not perfect.  Atrazine is an older chemical with a long soil life that used to be used in large volumes.  It's been replaced by newer products that don't have the carry-over concerns but it's still hanging around.  Like mentioned before, the bigger concern is ground water nitrate levels which can lead to all kinds of problems.

I am also amazed at how much water is used on lawns in general.  Groundwater is dwindling in a lot of areas but people still water.  Where I live, we've always had a low volume municipal well and no one can water.  Everyone's lawns look like crap in August, no one cares.  It's just a lawn.  I'll spend my time being proud of my kids or my beer before I worry about being proud of my lawn...

The Pub / Re: Post your local Gas Prices here...
« on: May 01, 2011, 08:02:18 AM »
$5.22 CAN for 1 US gallon.  Add on the exchange rate and it jumps to $5.53 US/gal.

Ingredients / "Sparkloid" finings
« on: April 30, 2011, 02:17:53 PM »
Anyone ever heard of these?  I got them at my local (and can I say, crappy) wine shop to try to clear up some beer but I have no idea what they are.  I asked they girl at the store if they were gelatin or what they were.  She said "No, they're sparkloid".  Apparently that is one of the elements missing from my periodic table.

There's no instructions for use on the package, all it says is "Enough to clear 90L of wine". 

Yes useless, but it's all they had and for a couple bucks I brought them home hoping that someone on here was smarter than the lady at the wine shop.

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