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Messages - mainebrewer

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1
The Pub / Re: Hello
« on: April 18, 2017, 03:18:02 AM »
Having been married for almost 48 years, I can only imagine what you are experiencing after the death of your wife.
This hobby is certainly something that can fill up a lot of time! I know, if I let it, it kinda takes over my free time.
Welcome! 

2
Kegging and Bottling / Re: How often do you clean your beer lines?
« on: April 16, 2017, 03:07:41 AM »
I clean the beer lines on my 5 keg set-up 3-4 times per year. It works out to cleaning a line after every 4-5 kegs.

3
All Grain Brewing / Re: When and how to adjust mash pH
« on: April 15, 2017, 09:23:48 AM »
Trying to re-adjust pH during the mash is somewhat pointless as you noted.
As noted in the previous post, my process is similar.
Determine the target pH using Brunwater or something similar.
Add the brewing salts and/or acid to mash water.
Mash in
20 min or so after mashing in, pull sample
Cool sample to whatever temp your meter calls for, mine calls for 25 degrees C.
Measure pH
If you are off, figure how to adjust for your next batch.

4
One store is 25 miles away and the other almost 50.
The selection is OK.
The prices are about the same, sometimes higher.
I buy almost all my equipment/supplies online since the selection is more predictable, price is the same or lower and the shipping is free (with a min $ order amount).
Driving one or two hours round trip is a deal breaker for me.

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Favorite Brew Music
« on: April 01, 2017, 03:30:07 AM »
Whatever's playing on Maine Public Radio when I'm brewing.

6
When I bottle conditioned, I found that it took 2-3 weeks at around 70 degrees for the beer to be fully carbonated.
It certainly won't hurt anything to open a bottle after a week.
As far as how long it would take for a potential bottle bomb to develop, I don't have any experience.

7
Was the OG hydrometer sample taken after the two weeks in primary?
If so, it's best to leave the beer on the yeast until it's done.
That said, after two weeks in primary at room temp (assuming ~70 degrees), the beer should have been done.
Best way to determine if a beer is done is to take hydrometer readings over two or three days. If they remain the same, the beer has stopped fermenting.
At this point, you can put the bottles somewhere warm to carbonate and in something or somewhere that if you do have "bottle bombs", the damage can be contained.
Bottle bombs are not a myth but are not that common.

Sorry, I meant to say "was the FG reading taken at the end of the 2 weeks of primary fermentation?"
More likely, if the beer was not finished, the bottles will be over carbonated and will "gush" when you open them.

8
Was the OG hydrometer sample taken after the two weeks in primary?
If so, it's best to leave the beer on the yeast until it's done.
That said, after two weeks in primary at room temp (assuming ~70 degrees), the beer should have been done.
Best way to determine if a beer is done is to take hydrometer readings over two or three days. If they remain the same, the beer has stopped fermenting.
At this point, you can put the bottles somewhere warm to carbonate and in something or somewhere that if you do have "bottle bombs", the damage can be contained.
Bottle bombs are not a myth but are not that common.
More likely, if the beer was not finished, the bottles will be over carbonated and will "gush" when you open them.

9
Ingredients / Re: Brew Kits
« on: March 24, 2017, 09:34:12 AM »
When I started brewing I used kits. First ones were the True Brew brand, not sure if they are still around.
Then I moved onto kits from Morebeer.
I found the kits from Morebeer to be fresh and well designed.
For me, the kits allowed me to get the process under control without thinking about ingredients.
But once I felt comfortable with the process, I moved to making my own receipes.

10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP810
« on: March 14, 2017, 09:19:00 AM »
If the yeast was cool to the touch, then the ice pack did its job.
But, as noted earlier, make starter, then you'll know that you are pitching plenty of yeast.

11
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Stains on the inside of my keg
« on: March 14, 2017, 09:15:28 AM »
Could be beerstone, try using some Beer Line Cleaner.

12
Like Paul, I had my Barley Crusher refurbished about 2 years ago. But after putting around 700 lbs of grain through it, it is starting to skip again. Kinda surprised since I got around 1200 lbs of grain through the mill when I first bought it, before it started to skip.
Not sure if I'll try to get it refurbished again or just bite the bullet and get a different mill.
Hate to have my brewing put on hold for the 4 weeks that it takes to get the BC refurbished.

13
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Dry Hop in Keg
« on: March 10, 2017, 09:09:20 AM »
I stopped cold crashing so i add my keg hops warm and then put the keg in the kegerator to cool. They stay until it kicks. Results are good.

Same here.

14
Ingredients / Re: question about iron filter and oxidation
« on: March 07, 2017, 02:37:08 PM »
I don't know what your other constraints may be, but if I had that kind of water, I'd be using RO water from the local supermarket, Walmart, etc. Adding some brewing salts to the RO water sounds like less work to me.

15
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast cake has funky smell..
« on: March 07, 2017, 02:33:54 PM »
So, you only messed up once!
That would be a record for me. :)

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