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Messages - mainebrewer

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16
I wonder if it could be a difference in perceived carbonation.  Maybe the lighter beers seem to be more highly carbed, while a beer with more body has less perceived carbonation.
I suspect this is the cause.

17
Equipment and Software / Re: Proane regulator problem?
« on: December 02, 2017, 05:00:46 PM »
Sounds like you may tripped the safety mech in the regulator. Turn everything off, wait 15 min, crack open the cylinder valve, wait 10 sec, slowly open the cylinder valve completely, open regulator and light.

Second guess, too cold.
Thanks for the tip. I've heard of this happening but never had it happed to me.
I followed your suggestion and everything worked as it should.

I knew it wasn't too cold since I've successfully used this setup at temps in the teens and it was only 30 degrees this AM.

18
Equipment and Software / Proane regulator problem?
« on: December 02, 2017, 12:39:03 PM »
I was planning on brewing this AM.
However, when I started the propane burner I got a very low flame. Like the tank was almost our of gas.
The tank did have gas in it but I switched to a full tank.
Now the burner won't lite at all.
I disconnected the regulator from the hose that goes to the burner and then attached the regulator to the tank.
Turned on the gas, no gas is coming out of the regulator.
I assume that's not normal.
Can I assume that the regulator is bad?
Weird, it worked OK two weeks ago.

19
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Forced carbonated, beer flat
« on: December 01, 2017, 10:56:36 AM »
If your tank gauge reads 750, it's not empty.
I find that it takes 7-10 days for a keg to be fully carbed.
Shaking the keg will speed that process up, of course.
Not sure how long the keg has been hooked to the gas but after a few days (3-4) there should be some signs of carbonation.
You may have a small leak somewhere. The first place I check is the keg lid.


20
Kegging and Bottling / Re: First Bottling coming up next week.
« on: November 27, 2017, 11:29:40 AM »
I'll have to look, a bag of priming sugar was included in the kit.
I don't know if they say how much sugar to use when we bottle.
Usually, you will use 4-5 oz of sugar for priming. The bag of sugar that is included with the kit is supposed to be the right amount for that beer.

21
Kegging and Bottling / Re: First Bottling coming up next week.
« on: November 21, 2017, 04:46:49 PM »
Another generic tip: after the beer is bottled, put it somewhere warm (around 70 degrees) and dark. Don't put it on the concrete floor of your 70 degree basement, though. Wait at least 2 weeks for carbonation.

22
Homebrewer Bios / Re: Howdy All
« on: November 20, 2017, 05:17:16 PM »
Welcome to the forum.
Good to see another Maine brewer on here.

23
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermentation stopped
« on: November 16, 2017, 11:10:04 AM »
A gravity check is the only way to know if fermentation has finished.
If you decide to leave the beer in the fermenter for 3 weeks, it will be absolutely fine.

24
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Aging in a keg
« on: November 13, 2017, 08:56:04 PM »
Yes you can leave the keg at room temp for a month or two.
You might need to hit it with some CO2 from time to time to keep the keg sealed.
The down side, I see, is that the beer will be a lot less fresh after 2 months at room temp.

25
The Pub / Re: OJ or IPA?
« on: October 27, 2017, 08:33:31 PM »
Judging by the foam on the glass, I'd say beer.

26
Equipment and Software / Re: Blichmann Ber Gun v2 Question
« on: October 16, 2017, 08:13:57 PM »
Yes, I bleed the head pressure in the keg by pulling the pressure relief valve until the CO2 is gone. 

27
Equipment and Software / Re: Blichmann Ber Gun v2 Question
« on: October 16, 2017, 04:08:41 PM »
Here is the procedure I use ( I don't have a dual regulator but I do have a manifold that splits the CO2 going to the keg and a separate connection that I use to connect to the BeerGun):
Get the bottles cold,
Turn off the gas to the keg,
Bleed head pressure from keg,
Set pressure regulator to 2-3 lbs (just high enough to push beer from keg to bottle),
Purge bottle with CO2,
Fill bottle,
Cap on foam.
Using this process, I've opened bottles a year after filling and the carbonation was still good.

28
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: It's Official
« on: October 16, 2017, 12:36:40 AM »
Kind of sad when the "song title game" thread gets the most posts...  :o
Yes,  but give this thread time to get going. We are overdue for a low oxygen whinge session.

Steve, you are absolutely clairvoyant!

29
Equipment and Software / Re: malt mill
« on: October 12, 2017, 10:27:45 AM »
On my BC you can actually see the wear on the rollers.  What used to be sharp, pointed pyramids are all flattened and dull.  I had it rebuilt just 2 years before which was disappointing.
Yeah, the knurling on my BC is clearly quite worn after getting it re-built a little over two years ago.

30
Equipment and Software / Re: malt mill
« on: October 11, 2017, 04:40:42 PM »
I've been having problems with my barley crusher not feeding the grain as well.  I think I've found a solution to my problem- I don't know if it is yours as well.  I noticed that my non-powered roller was not rolling.  When I cleaned the axles of the roller by blowing air around it,  it works again for a while. 

I think it is a two part problem.  First I think malt dust is clogging up the axle by the housing over time, especially when it is humid.  Second I noticed that the hopper has a gap on the side where the metal was cut and bent.  Sometimes grains will fall through this gap and get between the hopper bottom and the roller.  And then sometimes the resistance of having a grain between the hopper and the non-powered roller is enough to stop the roller from moving.

Today I tried my solution.  I took out the hopper and placed tape over the gap- on both sides, so there would not be a sticky side open.   That way no errant grains would fall the wrong way. I did not have any issues milling today, whereas last time my mill stopped feeding about twenty times.  I will have to try it out a few more times to test my hypothesis, but I'm hopeful.

I will try this. Nothing ventured, etc.
The last time the mill stopped feeding grain I did take it apart to see if I could find the problem. There was nothing I could see that was wrong (other than that the knurling on the rollers was worn) and there was no crud on the roller bearing surfaces. I put a little mineral oil on the bearings to see if that might help. It didn't. Let me know how your experiment turns out.

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