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Messages - mainebrewer

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The Pub / Re: ever changing palate
« on: December 16, 2016, 09:59:46 AM »
Beer never tastes right when I'm hung over.
Funny how that works!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Online Home Brew Stores
« on: December 05, 2016, 02:08:32 PM »
Mostly, for the past 15 years, I've used Morebeer.
The closest local store is 35 miles one way and does not have a great or predictable selection of ingredients.
Morebeer's customer service is excellent - the one issue, in the past 15 years, was promptly taken care of by them.
Now with the PA location shipping is very quick to Maine, usually 2 days.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Banking Yeast
« on: November 17, 2016, 03:24:14 AM »
I save yeast in mason jars, keep it in the 'fridge and regularly pitch it up to 4 weeks after harvesting it.
I've not experienced any fermentation issues while doing this.

The Pub / Re: Canadian Homebrewers Association
« on: November 09, 2016, 02:17:46 PM »
While we might have a bumpy ride for the next four years, we have a very resilient form of gov't that has survived worse and will survive this and so will we.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Blow off question
« on: November 07, 2016, 02:03:20 PM »
I use the same setup but no sanitizer, just water.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: porter fermentation
« on: November 07, 2016, 10:03:48 AM »
No need to transfer to a secondary vessel.
The porter will almost certainly be done in two weeks but you can verify that by checking gravity over a couple of days.
Bottle conditioning usually takes about 2 weeks. Just keep the bottles somewhere that stays around 70 degrees.

Equipment and Software / Re: MW102 pH meter issue
« on: October 26, 2016, 12:49:08 PM »
Lately, when checking mash pH I've noticed that my meter's reading was .2-.3 lower than the Brunwater estimate. After checking a few other things, I used the meter to check the pH of the 4.01 and 7.01 calibration solutions.

I was going to ask if you are taking the pH readings at room (or close to room) temperature and not mash temps? That can cause a .2-.3 difference right off the bat.

The pH readings were done at 25C. I also do the "gently stir" while measuring the pH of a solution.

The Pub / Re: Finally
« on: October 23, 2016, 05:33:20 PM »
Well, the wait is getting better.
The first time was a 7 month wait, the next time was 4 months.

Ingredients / Re: Rahr Pilsner adjustment in BW
« on: October 17, 2016, 03:54:31 AM »
An easy way is to use the MA sheet.

What you want to do is remove all pH altering substances from the sheet. Enter the grain as 100% of the grist. Now increase or decrease the °L of the malt until the estimated pH matches the distilled water pH of the malt.



Ingredients / Re: Rahr Pilsner adjustment in BW
« on: October 15, 2016, 03:07:18 AM »
Best Malz Pilsner seems to be more acidic than expected.
I've had to adjusts the color setting on my last few batches of German pils to get them to come into Brunwater predicted pH range.
I'll do the mini mash with distilled water to see where the pH falls.

What would be the expected pH range for a typical American 2-row or Maris Otter malt?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Closed transfer and dry hopping in the keg
« on: October 10, 2016, 09:09:55 AM »
Thanks for the responses.
I try to fill to just below the in dip tube to avoid beer in the gas line and, when the keg is over-filled, it seems to take a lot longer to carbonate.

Kegging and Bottling / Closed transfer and dry hopping in the keg
« on: October 09, 2016, 04:34:38 PM »
Some questions for those of you who are doing closed transfers and who also dry hop in the keg.
I understand the keg purging process of filling the keg with sanitizer and pushing it out with CO2.
Do you then open the keg to put the dry hops in?
Do you "purge" the hops somehow? I've read/heard that the hops bring a substantial amount of O2 to the finished beer.
Finally, with the keg closed while transferring beer from primary, do you fill the keg by weight? Or, how do you know when the keg is full?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Purging keg and adding gelatin.
« on: October 05, 2016, 01:27:04 PM »
I fill my keg with sanitizer of choice, push all out through tap, open lid and add gelatin solution, close lid and purge a bunch of times, then close transfer beer from primary into keg outpost.

Slight hijack here. but do you do something similar when you dry hop in the keg?
Also, when you do a closed transfer, do you fill by weight?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How long is your brew day?
« on: September 26, 2016, 09:16:48 AM »
On average, I can usually get done in 5 hours - set-up to clean-up, assuming a 60 min mash and 60 min boil.
Any whirlpool/hop stands add to this time.

Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: September 23, 2016, 01:22:04 PM »
Some were asking about storage
Per wyeast -
Stability:   1 year, stored in airtight container in cool environment

Yep, can't hurt.  And after all of my protestations, I tokk the extraordinary measure of actually contacting Joe to get usage info..surprise, surprise, I was's what he said...

I add 1/4 tsp per 5 gal of strike and sparge water, and 1/2 tsp as a slurry 15-16 min before the end of the boil. If you like using the Irish moss for 15, then add it 1 min before that.

So it is water volume based, not batch volume.  And it does indeed go in the sparge, too.

Do the kettle finings go in before or after the Brewtan B?

Brewtan first then finings.  I had not read this thread in a couple months, but I am encouraged about the Brewtan-B and continuing some of the lodo process - but I am not going to obsess about it.  Like I mentioned in another thread, the bronze medal International Beer Cup winner was from Crystal Lake, IL.  They don't do anything special - but they suggest drinking it very fresh.


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