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Messages - mainebrewer

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46
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Poor WLP002 attenuation: raise temp to fix?
« on: October 02, 2013, 06:16:49 AM »
I use 002 on a regular basis.
As noted in previous posts, it flocs real easy, and is a real bear to rouse using most homebrewing equipment.
Back in my extract days when I had a stuck ferment, I found the only reliable way to get the beer to finish was to warm it up into the mid 70's, swirl the carboy to resuspend the yeast and add 1/2 tsp amylase enzyme per 5 gal.
Keep it in the mid 70's for a couple of weeks.
I know some have some horror stories using amylase but I never did using the 1/2 tsp per 5 gal dose.

47
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dilution ratio
« on: July 26, 2013, 07:14:03 AM »
Thanks for the solutions!
Always fun to see the responses from the homebrewing mathematicians and scientists among us!

48
General Homebrew Discussion / Dilution ratio
« on: July 25, 2013, 11:39:44 AM »
Need some math assistance here.
If I have 32 oz of phosphoric acid 85% concentration, how do I calculate the amount of water to dilute the 85% to some other percentage?
I'm having a brain cramp here!

49
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast separates
« on: July 16, 2013, 05:27:22 AM »
I regularly re-use my yeast.
Occaisionally, I have the same thing.
It doesn't seem to be an issue, I just give it a good shaking before I re-pitch.
As noted, the lid needs to be kept loose to allow any CO2 to escape.

50
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Stupid noob question - gas vs liquid posts
« on: June 10, 2013, 06:13:02 AM »
On a related note, if you have multiple kegs to clean, it is best to disassemble, clean, and reassemble one keg at a time.
Sometimes the posts and/or other parts from one keg do not fit on another keg.
Speaking from experience, this can be aggravating!

51
Equipment and Software / Re: Hydrometer Conspiracy
« on: June 04, 2013, 05:27:53 AM »
Years ago, after I broke my hydrometer, I decided I'd buy 2 so I'd have a spare in case I broke another one.  I haven't broken one since.  I think having a spare is why!  ;)
Same here!

52
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter Boil Duration
« on: May 01, 2013, 06:16:18 AM »
The only reason I know for the boiling is sanitation.
If your starters are turning out fine and the beer you ferment with the yeast is turning out fine, then a 5 min boil is working for you.
I boil for 10 min just because I do and its only another 5 min.

53
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Old Slurry - Building Back Up.
« on: April 24, 2013, 04:42:29 AM »
I've done thisseveral times with old yeast, not four months old, maybe two months old.
I use about a 1/4 cup in 2L of wort and a stir plate.
Never had any issues, that I could taste.
I've always dumped the unused portion of the yeast.

54
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bru'n Water help
« on: April 18, 2013, 11:08:48 AM »
The cost of a brewing program like ProMash or Beersmith is $20-$25.
This program provides, IMO, at least as much value as programs like them.
Not saying you have to contribute $20-$25., just that if you did, you'd still be getting your money's worth.
 

55
All Grain Brewing / Re: stuck fermentation
« on: April 15, 2013, 10:05:51 AM »
A few years back when I was doing extract brewing, I occaisionally had a beer stop short of where I wanted it to finish.
I found that adding a half tsp of amylase to five gallons and resuspending the yeast would get the beer down to my target in a couple of weeks.
I never had an issue with either bottle bombs or gushers.
I had heard the horror stories, just never experienced them.

56
The Pub / Re: The right tool for the job
« on: March 27, 2013, 06:44:02 AM »
As Jeff Foxworthy says, its amazing how many accidents start with the phrase "here hold my beer, I want to show you something!"

57
Ingredients / Re: how long for dry hop pellets to settle out?
« on: March 27, 2013, 06:40:03 AM »
Sometimes the hops just don't sink.
Siphoning from under the hops will work just fine.

58
Your problem is the 1/4" beer line.
It only provides about 1/3 the restriction of 3/16" line.
So, at 11 PSI you'd need about 16 feet of 1/4" line.
Try 8" of 3/16", if the pour is too slow, cut off a foot and try again.
For my system, I have found that 7" of 3/16" at 10-12 PSI with a temp of ~40 degrees works best.

59
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stepped yeast starters
« on: March 22, 2013, 11:49:55 AM »
If there is a process built into Mr Malty for step starters, I have not found it.
I don't know what your max capacity is for making a starter. You mention a 2l flask.
If you can make a larger starter volumn, try moving the yeast growth slider to max yeast growth.
That may reduce the number of packets needed to one but will increase the volumn.
Or, you can put in all the data just as you've done, then reduce the gravity of the beer until you get to 1 packet.
Make whatever volunm starter is indicated using the one packet.
Ferment it out.
Then change the data to reflect brand new yeast and the actual gravity of the beer you want to make.
Make whatever size starter is indicated and let that ferment out.
Decant and pitch.

60
Equipment and Software / Re: Digital refractometer
« on: January 15, 2013, 05:45:30 AM »
When I first got mine, the reading were erratic. I could test the same sample three times and get three readings.
Two things I learned, one, when the instruction say fill the reservoir full, it means completely full, not just covering the little glass window and two, after filling the reservoir wait 30 secs and let the temp stabilize before hitting the READ button.
Using the default correction factor built into ProMash, I am always within 1 gravity point of my hydrometer.

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