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Messages - mainebrewer

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Secondary or Keg?
« on: November 07, 2011, 12:44:27 PM »
I leave my beer fridge set at 40 degrees and serve at around 10 PSI.
The beer will be carbed after a week at your settings.
Don't know how you are serving the beer (cobra tap or faucet on side of fridge, etc.) or the length of your beer line from keg to faucet, but if you bought the standard cobra tap set-up with a 5 foot line, the beer pour might be a little foamy at 11-12 PSI.
If it is, just turn the gas off and use the pressure relief valve in the keg to bleed off some of the gas pressure, might have to do it a few times over a few hours. Then turn the gas back on and set the serving pressure a couple of pounds lower.

Equipment and Software / Re: Fridge breaking/broken
« on: October 27, 2011, 04:41:12 AM »
Just to reinforce what Euge said - make sure the fridge controls are set to max cold settings (if it has separate controls for the cooler section and freezer section set them both to max cold temp).

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is your boil-off volume reproducible?
« on: September 28, 2011, 05:51:49 AM »
Curiosity satisfied, thanks.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is your boil-off volume reproducible?
« on: September 27, 2011, 12:33:16 PM »
I've heard and used the 4% ROT.
Wondering, is this a linear thing? For example, 212 degrees to 60 degrees is a 4% loss in volume. What would the percentage loss be at, say, 100 degrees?
I know I'm over thinking this, just curious.

I have a 5 lb tank that I use to carb and serve up to 5 kegs at a time. I also use it to push cleaning fluids through beer lines and kegs. Under these conditions, a tank lasts me 8-10 months.
I also use the "set and forget" carb method, it takes 5-7 days.
Regarding your question #4, I think that would be unnecessary.
You can carb at the serving temp and then remove to a warmer area without affecting the carbonation. I wouldn't put the kegs somewhere that had high temps because that will just be bad for the beer.

Ingredients / Re: Dry hopping with whole leaf
« on: July 28, 2011, 04:59:03 AM »
Whole leaf hops will be fine for dry hopping.
You are right, if you put them in a bag, it will be a pain to get out of the carboy.
I never used a bag, just drop the hops in the carboy and when its ready, rack off the beer.
Since I've been kegging my beer, when I dry hop, I do it in the keg.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: leaks at low temp
« on: July 12, 2011, 05:01:00 AM »
When I had my tank in the fridge with the beer, I noticed that when I had to replace the tank with the spare that had been setting outside of the fridge that sometimes I could not get it to seal between the regulator connection and the tank. Once the tank had cooled down to the temp of the regulator, it would seal just fine. Didn't happen every time.

Equipment and Software / Re: what mill would you recommend?
« on: June 29, 2011, 07:15:10 AM »
I got a Barley Crusher with 15 pound hopper about 4 years ago.
Works great, no issues.
Used it with the hand crank for about 3 years, then last year put a motor on it.
Motorizing it cut 20 minutes off my brew day and works like a charm.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Going On Vacation Soon
« on: June 15, 2011, 12:36:45 PM »
Personally, I wouldn't have transfered to a secondary container until it had reached the desired FG.
Generally, there's not a lot of fermentation going on in secondary. What was the gravity when you transferred?
Anyway, my earlier suggestion remains, especially since it is no longer in the primary fermentor, leave it at its current temp until you are ready to leave, then put in the fridge until you get back.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Going On Vacation Soon
« on: June 14, 2011, 05:37:55 AM »
You don't say how long its been in the fermenter but, assuming its only been a couple of weeks, I would leave the beer at fermentation temp and then when you are actually leaving put it in the fridge at 50 degrees. Assuming you are using an ale yeast, it will be pretty inactive at 50 degrees.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stir plate starter question
« on: May 27, 2011, 04:01:50 AM »
You will see some krausen form and the wort will turn milky color as the yeast multiply.

The Pub / Re: Bumper Stickers
« on: May 16, 2011, 07:54:21 AM »
Referring back to some earlier posts:
"Visualize using your turn signals"
"Just because you're different doesn't mean you're useful"
are a couple of my favorites.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: uhoh morebeer
« on: April 19, 2011, 02:28:34 PM »
The MoreBeer site was out for me for awhile yesterday, then it was back.
Today, its gone again.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Ringwood yeast
« on: April 12, 2011, 05:13:48 AM »
My question was mostly curiosity.
I had a chance for a pretty thorough (I was there about 2 hours) tour of Shipyard Brewing in Portland, ME recently with one of the brewers.
Shipyard is Maine's largest brewery and produces close to 100,000 barrels per year.
The house yeast is Ringwood.
The interesting thing, interesting to me anyway, I learned was that while they do a lot of contract brewing, 99.9% of everything they brew is done with the Ringwood yeast.
The downside is that when you go into one of the brew pubs or bars that they also operate and ask for a sampler of all the styles, they all taste pretty much the same.


Yeast and Fermentation / Ringwood yeast
« on: April 11, 2011, 12:40:08 PM »
Does anyone know if any of the Wyeast or Whitelab yeasts are the Ringwood strain?

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