Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - beersk

Pages: 1 ... 83 84 [85] 86 87 ... 216
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in a corney keg
« on: July 30, 2014, 08:27:11 AM »
Are you planning to primary ferment in the keg? If so, you can make a jumper hose with two (black) liquid disconnects, 5 feet of 3/16" beer line, and hook up from liquid out to liquid out and do a closed transfer. It's how I ferment, and I love it.

WHen I batch sparged, I tended to be a bit of a heavy stirrer. I also just dumped my sparge water in rather aggressively, Something I've recently read may contribute to oxidation. Maybe I'm dealing with a combination of the two?
I doubt this, highly...

I think it could be oxidation post fermentation and possibly at bottling time.

I'm dealing with a beer, a rye pale ale, that had a slight butterscotch happening in the keg. It may have been oxidation from not adequately purging the headspace. It was 3.5 gallons in the keg, perhaps I didn't purge well enough. But I bottled a bunch of it off and noticed the butterscotch last night. No slick mouth feel though. I don't know where else it would come from (I am damn sure at this point that it's not coming from my gas lines).
Then again, I could be imaging it. It was with Kohatu hops, rye, 4oz special B, and 4oz Victory. It could be a combination of those malts that makes me think butterscotch when it could just be caramel/toffee that I'm tasting.
It's not too unpleasant either, in this case. But I've definitely had some IPAs ruined by contamination of my gas lines (mold in disconnect from back flow) that caused intense butterscotch after a week or so in the keg. I almost quit brewing because I couldn't figure out why that was happening.
So I'm usually put off when ever I perceive what might be butterscotch, anymore...

Hmm, I'd be hesitant to say it's coming from the blow off side, however, I don't do pressurized fermentations. I use ball lock kegs to ferment 4 gallon batches and never sanitize my blow off tubes (gas disconnect with tubing going into jar of sanitizer or water). Although maybe I should... Perhaps you aren't getting your spears clean enough? I assume you're running cleaner and sanitizer through the whole system? I don't I don't really do the cleaner part for my fermenter kegs, just rinse well, use a dip tube brush, make sure poppets are clean, then fill part way with sanitizer, pressurize and let sit like that until I need it again.
I would say maybe post your question on the pressurized fermentation thread on Homebrewtalk to see if it's possibly coming from the blow off side.

Well, you can always let the beer warm up. Easier to do that than having it be too warm and wanting to cool it down.

Beer Recipes / Re: First Lager
« on: July 23, 2014, 12:03:24 PM »
Hmmm, a forgiving style would maybe be a darker style. Maybe a vienna lager or a schwarzbier would be your best bet. Something light and delicate like a helles wouldn't be the best since there is nothing to hide any flaws. Maybe try a 1/3 each of vienna, munich, and pils malt, with maybe 1/2 to 1 pound of caramunich to get you in the 12 SRM range. Hop with noble hops to 20 IBU, and use a clean lager yeast with a big starter or dry yeast of something like Wy2124 or Saflager 34/70.
Or a schwarzbier with mostly pils malt for the base with a little caramunich and dehusked Carafa III to the mid 20's SRM.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerating Wort Techniques
« on: July 23, 2014, 11:43:21 AM »
I use an aeration stone in the end of a wand (William's Brewing) and the red O2 canisters. I don't like doing that as much though because the O2 canisters are disposable and can't be recycled...waste of materials. But I still use them. I have a mixstir that I use occasionally, but the pure O2 route is just so much easier and more reassuring that the wort will have adequate O2 absorption.

Don't invert the bottles more than once. Once should be enough, otherwise, you're risking oxidation. It takes more time than 13 days sometimes. You need to be patient.

Did someone say 2124? Love that yeast.

It's dry equivalent, Saflager 34/70, is fantastic as well.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg beer line survey
« on: July 22, 2014, 09:34:48 AM »
Wow, that's in depth.  I'm due for new lines and I think I actually have 5 foot lines right now...not sure what to go to and I dropped my kegerator temp so the beer coming out is about 35-36F instead of 40F. I figure the beer can warm up easier than I could cool it down. Plus, it'll help with clearing the beer faster while it's carbonating...I hope anyway.

I think you're much better off using a lager strain that tolerates warmer temps than using an ale strain. WY2124 or Saflager 34/70 will get you closer than any ale strain, even pushing the low 60s for fermentation temps. The yeast character is distinctly different between an Alt, Koelsch or lager strain.
Good call. If you have the option, do this. That strain is clean into the mid 60's, very versatile.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle conditioned lager
« on: July 21, 2014, 02:09:13 PM »
You can do that, or you can lager on the yeast cake for 3 or 4 weeks and be fine to bottle. And like Jonathan said, be slightly less careful racking to the bottling bucket. If you want to minimize the sediment, cold crash for a week then bottle. But as to your current lager, it might just need more time. If there was a hiss, it means it was working, just taking longer than normal since there was less yeast in suspension. Give it time if you can.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle conditioned lager
« on: July 21, 2014, 12:54:41 PM »
I think 3 weeks is still pretty soon for a beer that lagered for 6 weeks. It may take longer to carbonate. But 6 weeks is pushing it, I think. To be safe, I wouldn't lager for more than 4 weeks at 35F without adding more yeast at bottling. You probably don't need to even lager that long. You need to drop some of the yeast out, then you can carbonate and lager in the bottles more. So 2 weeks would likely be adequate.

Was there a hiss at all when you opened the bottle? If so, it could mean that it's working, but just taking longer than normal.

Is the canned version naturally carbonated? The bottle version is bottle conditioned, right?

You can always lager in the bottles after they're carbonated. How cool can you maintain your fermentation temps?
I have a friend who does this, it works pretty well. Perhaps not ideal, but it still produces pretty good lagers.

Equipment and Software / Re: Lagering in a corney keg
« on: July 20, 2014, 07:55:38 PM »
He's talking about primary fermentation in the keg. I do this exclusively and it works great. Like others said, use a gas disconnect and a piece of tubing clamped to it, run it into a jar of sanitizer or water. Works great and you can do a closed transfer to your serving keg or bottling keg. No air exposure...

Pages: 1 ... 83 84 [85] 86 87 ... 216