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Messages - beersk

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1486
Ingredients / Re: Red X malt (Best Malz)
« on: August 14, 2014, 10:14:16 AM »
Curious about the color rating.

I see it is shown at 11-13 however my beer ended up pretty dark and basically brown (with other malts). Beersmith has it defaulted to 15L and when I replace with that figure, the color rating of the beer seems more accurate.

Did you see my above posts? Wyermann says it is intended for a 1.050 beer at 100% Red X. If using other speaiclty malts or different gravity you will have to make adjustments.
Best you mean. I brewed a lager that was 1.048 and it was pretty amber to red, in the 12L or so range. It was an interesting malt character, munich-y, but with almost a dark cherry-like flavor.  It was good, intensely malty. Pretty cool a malt that produces that dark of a wort can be mashed 100% on its own.

1487
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Safbrew Abbaye Ale
« on: August 14, 2014, 10:11:46 AM »
I'm kinda worried about the description saying Belgian styles and IIPA.  Does that mean Belgian beers with a "Belgian profile" or IIPA that tastes Belgian?  They seem to be more concerned with alcohol tolerance than anything else.
I thought that seemed obvious with this whole Belgian IPA trend going on right now...

1488
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Times
« on: August 14, 2014, 10:10:18 AM »
Conversion occurs faster at higher temps. Basic chemistry.


148 for medium body seems very low to me. I would think 151-152 would be more appropriate.
Beersmith medium body is more like 154F. The light body is around 150F for 75 minutes.

I'd mash an IPA around 150-152. You want a good fermentable wort so it finishes dry to let the hops shine. Well, that's what I want...you maybe want something different.

1489
All Grain Brewing / Re: What is this on top?
« on: August 13, 2014, 06:54:15 AM »
Looks like hop scum to me. Is that one of those Brew Buckets?

1490
Ingredients / Re: Storage of Grain
« on: August 12, 2014, 01:00:11 PM »
I keep mine in the sacks with the tops rolled closed. They sit in a dark hallway closet. Specialty grains and whatnot, are in the bags they came in, in storage bins in the same closet.

1491
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Chaning lines in a tri tap tower
« on: August 07, 2014, 01:22:30 PM »
This is why I no longer use a tower - changing lines was a huge pain! Good luck!

1492
I've been using baking soda with good results lately for dark beers. Martin says to be sure to keep Na levels under 50ppm, but if you use RO water, it's not hard to do that even on a dark beer.
Agreed. I don't understand all the hate for baking soda. You don't have to use that much and it raises the pH and alkalinity enough with small doses. And it's cheaper and safer to handle than pickling lime...

I'm planning to start using distilled water because you can never really trust the water to even be RO on those machines. You just don't know how much they pay attention to keeping the filters up-to-date.

Yeah, I think if somebody were using their tap water which already had some sodium and then using baking soda for a dark beer, you could end up with overly high levels of Na. But with RO or distilled , I don't see it happening. I brewed a stout last winter where I mashed all the malts together, and the baking soda it took to get me to 5.5 pH gave me ~ 47ppm Na. Beer came out great - maybe the best stout I've made. As for the RO filter issue, I agree - so I bought a $20 TDS meter from Amazon to test the RO water from the store each time. Now I can buy RO water with confidence.
I should get one of those meters... I just might. I want to try using distilled once, see how I like it. I probably won't notice a difference, but who knows. Sucky thing about distilled is you have to buy the jugs and can't fill a 5 gallon deal like I do with RO. But then again, I walk to the store to get my water, so carrying all that water just isn't practical, which is why I've been using tap water lately. My tap water is decent, but I'd prefer to start from a blank slate and not have to worry about seasonal variations.

1493
I've been using baking soda with good results lately for dark beers. Martin says to be sure to keep Na levels under 50ppm, but if you use RO water, it's not hard to do that even on a dark beer.
Agreed. I don't understand all the hate for baking soda. You don't have to use that much and it raises the pH and alkalinity enough with small doses. And it's cheaper and safer to handle than pickling lime...

I'm planning to start using distilled water because you can never really trust the water to even be RO on those machines. You just don't know how much they pay attention to keeping the filters up-to-date.

1494
Ingredients / Re: Water for Märzen
« on: August 07, 2014, 09:05:27 AM »
Damn...I've got that recipe fermenting right now and I COMPLETELY overlooked the caraMunich..oh, well.
Ha! A friend of mine did exactly that last week. He was pretty bummed out about it. I told him it'd still be a great beer and not to worry.
I'm brewing that same recipe next Tuesday. Planning to build from 100% distilled water. Great info, thanks, Martin!

1495
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Aging vs. lagering for ales
« on: August 07, 2014, 08:45:30 AM »
There are some beers that are best aged at 50 degrees - mostly high gravity beers such as barley wine. But all beers benefit from some cold conditioning time. IMO even hefeweizen benefits from a week or so at below 40 temps.
But only a week or so...then those damn things start dropping bright. I have a hefe on now that's been in the keg for about 2 weeks and it's already clearing. Argh! That's the only time I want my beer to stay cloudy! Then my damn lagers take 4+ weeks to drop bright... can't have it all I guess...

I'd say most styles benefit from cold storage.

1496
Kegging and Bottling / Re: polyclar and carbonated beer
« on: August 05, 2014, 11:14:39 AM »
Does fermenting it like that somehow make it more prone to chill haze, or what? I do like my lagers bright and clear, I just need to give them more time. I don't like adding things to my beer if I don't have to.

1497
Kegging and Bottling / Re: polyclar and carbonated beer
« on: August 05, 2014, 09:46:04 AM »
It's only been lagering a week? It wouldn't be clear in a week, give it 2 or 3 more weeks. Just be patient!

gah! why does everyone say that to me?  ;D

So your maize gave a haze for the first 7 days???

I'm amazed...

(stopping)

FWIW since I started fermenting lagers using the Narziss method (some BN loyal call it the Tasty method), my lagers are never clear when they're ready to drink (14-20 days).

So far, I have stuck with Polyclar and creative naming: "Keller Pils" or "Unflitered Pils". I bought a filter but haven't used it...

I've been really happy with Polyclar. Its definitely your best (only?) veg/vegan-friendly option for cellar fining. Shouldn't matter if the beer is carbonated, it will just take longer to drop out.

It is inorganic (plastic), so you might transfer to another keg once everything settles out.
Is this the method where you warm it up a few degrees after 48 or 72 hours until it's in the mid 60's? This is how I ferment my lagers. They sometimes take up to 6 weeks to really get clear which is a tad annoying. I'm not that patient.

1498
Kegging and Bottling / Re: polyclar and carbonated beer
« on: August 05, 2014, 08:58:57 AM »
It's only been lagering a week? It wouldn't be clear in a week, give it 2 or 3 more weeks. Just be patient!

1499
All Grain Brewing / Re: Burning your bag in BIAB?
« on: August 05, 2014, 08:53:52 AM »
If you don't heat your kettle during the mash you never have to worry about scorching. Insulating your kettle during the mash should help you keep your heat loss to an acceptable level.

If you're thinking of doing step mashes with BIAB, I think you're a lot better off doing it as a separate infusion. Directly heating your kettle during the mash can create hot spots. If you're worried about scorching your bag you should have the same concerns about the enzymes in your mash as well.
You can apply heat if the grains and bag are not close to the bottom of the kettle. I think the guy in the club recirculates while applying heat. If I make it to the club meeting on Friday I can ask him.
 
As for the enzymes denaturing, well many in this area do a RIMS approach all of the time with a false bottom and a pump. You just need to be judicious with the heat.
Yes, you will denature enzymes. I had a slew of beers I did with brew in a bag that wouldn't finish below 1.020, even with lots of healthy yeast, pure o2, and low mash temps. I would stir, but it wasn't enough, the heat on the bottom of the kettle was much warmer than what my thermometer near the top was reading... and now I know...

1500
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Unfiltered beer
« on: August 01, 2014, 11:30:44 AM »
I've got a dampfbier carbonating now........


Hey, I'll be curious to hear how that dampfbier comes out for you. It's a style I've wanted to brew for a while and I always end up brewing something else. And I assume it was mostly Pils with some Munich ?


Yeah, that's basically it. Kind of Oktoberfest-y with that phenolic hefe yeast character. Nice an clear and gold, bordering on amber. Instead of Munich malt I used Red X malt. I think it was 65% Weyermann floor malted pils and 35% Red X. It's a nice beer. Still needs time to carbonate, but I've been drinking about one a week to check it out. Another couple weeks it ought to be good to go.

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