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Messages - beersk

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16
It's not a matter of telling the difference in flavor, I've just had less attenuation issues since switching to pure O2. I know it's probably a waste, but I brew a lot of lagers (50-75% of my batches) so I want to make sure I start off with good amounts of dissolved O2.

And a stone isn't hard to keep up. Some of y'all use pH meters...now come on, don't give me that excuse that a stone is hard to maintain...

But maybe I'll have to get my mixstir back out and give it a go...

17
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 8 month old tastes phenomenal
« on: August 13, 2015, 01:49:12 PM »
That post title makes it sound like you were eating an 8 month old baby or some kind of animal.

I had a weizenbock that was bottled off the keg about 2 years ago last night. It was tasty. Also had a porter that I found in my closet that's been there for probably 8 or 9 months. It was amazing. It had mold around the cap, haha.
That's why bottling is so fun, when you find those mystery bottles. Feel a bit sorry for the people who write off bottling for good when they start kegging.
One of the pluses for making 6 gal. batches is that, if you keg 5 gal., there's still 10-12 bottles that you can squirrel away.
Yeah, that is fun to do. I've just been bottling off the keg to turn batches over quicker if I want something else on. Kind of the best of both options for me.

18
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 8 month old tastes phenomenal
« on: August 13, 2015, 06:18:26 AM »
That post title makes it sound like you were eating an 8 month old baby or some kind of animal.

I had a weizenbock that was bottled off the keg about 2 years ago last night. It was tasty. Also had a porter that I found in my closet that's been there for probably 8 or 9 months. It was amazing. It had mold around the cap, haha.
That's why bottling is so fun, when you find those mystery bottles. Feel a bit sorry for the people who write off bottling for good when they start kegging.

19
Equipment and Software / Re: Ss Brew Tech Brewbucket
« on: August 11, 2015, 11:02:07 AM »
I have one as well (the version with the thermowell) and have had no issues sanitizing the valve assembly. 

I soak it in an Iodophor solution while opening/closing the valve a few times prior to filling the fermentor with wort.  When it's time to rack to the serving keg, I spray Iodophor solution up into the valve and all around the valve exterior.  I think I've run about 10 batches through it so far.

I have never done it, but I understand that the valve can also be fully disassembled for cleaning if desired (someone posted pictures of this on another forum).  It can also be boiled.

Given what you have stated in other threads, I don't think you actually care about this, but here's a thread I started that shows how to rig up a gas post to a drilled stopper so that one do a closed loop transfer into a CO2 purged keg.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=20241.0

The o-rings that are used to attach the racking arm to the inside of the ball valve are small and pretty fragile.  You may want to order some extras right off the bat (you can probably get a bag of 100 of them from McMaster Carr for less than you can buy a replacement set from the manufacturer).  My experience has been that if you direct the initial runoff into a collection jar it will start to run clear right after you get enough for a hydrometer reading.  It can then be re-directed into the serving keg without the need to ever rotate the valve/racking arm assembly out of the trub.

I'm happy with the fermentor and would buy it again. 

Damn, I missed this. That's awesome that the closed loop works. The gas from the keg releases into the fermenter which pushes the beer into the keg. Great idea.

20
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Habaneros in keg
« on: August 11, 2015, 06:02:13 AM »
How many is "some"? I have consumed dried habaneros in the past, and it was even worse than the time I ate a hot wing coated in Dave's Ultimate Insanity sauce instead of Red Hot....
Yikes, really? In the immortal words of Paris Hilton, "That's hot."

Tap that keg and let us know how it tastes.  Curious why you haven't drank it in all this time...

21
All Grain Brewing / Re: 50:50 or 60:40 Wheat to Vienna for Hefeweizen?
« on: August 09, 2015, 11:26:35 AM »
Yeah, man, vienna and/or munich as the other half of the base malt for a hefe is amazing. It still turns out pretty light, I don't know what all this talk about dunkelweizen is about. I have one on tap that is still about 5 SRM with about 60% wheat and 20ish percent each of vienna and munich, with a little acid malt for pH adjustment. It's awesome.

I was going to use some Caraffa II if I decided to make it into a dunkel. I just thought the extra maltiness of that much Vienna might be better suited to a dunkel, which is how the idea got tossed around.

Going to brew it Sunday as a normal hefeweizen.

Plan to add about a half pound of rice hulls to help it drain well.
Ah, I missed that. Sounds great, I think you'll really like what the vienna adds to the malt profile.

22
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Getting Smegma out of Better Bottles
« on: August 09, 2015, 11:21:53 AM »
Smegma?!

"noun: smegma: a sebaceous secretion in the folds of the skin, especially under a man's foreskin."

Using full bio-hazard gear, deposit it in the trash.  The out-of-doors trash.
Ha, right, I was reminded of Red Dwarf. Smegma is definitely NOT what the OP is trying to clean from his better bottle.

23
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dumping 5gallons
« on: August 07, 2015, 09:02:42 AM »
Ah, well, steady on then! My batches typically last 1-2 months in the keg, 4.75 gallons at a time. I'm good with that.

24
All Grain Brewing / Re: 50:50 or 60:40 Wheat to Vienna for Hefeweizen?
« on: August 07, 2015, 06:24:35 AM »
Yeah, man, vienna and/or munich as the other half of the base malt for a hefe is amazing. It still turns out pretty light, I don't know what all this talk about dunkelweizen is about. I have one on tap that is still about 5 SRM with about 60% wheat and 20ish percent each of vienna and munich, with a little acid malt for pH adjustment. It's awesome.

25
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dumping 5gallons
« on: August 07, 2015, 06:21:36 AM »
Udubdawg, sounds like you need to brew smaller batches.

OP, dump it and be done with it. Nothing wrong with dumping beer as long as you learned something from it, which it seems you have. I dumped a whole keg of oatmeal stout last winter...that was sad. Pitched some bad yeast, I think. It had a whiskey-like flavor in it, but there was no whiskey added and it fermented at 64. I can only think the yeast was bad or it picked up some kind of infection. That was very disappointing.

26
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Profile for a Schwarzbier?
« on: August 06, 2015, 07:46:09 AM »
I'm surprised Martin didn't mention it, but don't bother with the chalk. Just use the baking soda.

If you're using RO water, then adding dark malts at the end of the mash is not a bad idea if you don't want to bother with having to raise the pH. I'd suggest a pH in the 5.4 or 5.5 range for a smoother roast character.

It's probably easier just adding baking soda to the mash water instead of making sure to acidify the mash enough without the roast malts, then adding them back in.
I always wonder how it affects the pH post mash into the boil kettle by adding roasted malts at the end of the mash vs just mashing with them in and making sure the pH is in the proper range. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

27
Equipment and Software / Re: Ss Brew Tech Brewbucket
« on: August 05, 2015, 07:56:06 AM »
If I were a full 5 gallon batch brewer, I think I'd invest in some 10 gallon cornie kegs and ferment in those. Heavy, sure, but moving beer under co2 pressure is the shiznit.

The only issue I've had fermenting in 10 gallon cornie kegs is that the liquid out dip tube can get clogged if there is too much hop material in the fermentor.  I bought an extra liquid out tube and cut a half inch off it, but I switched to the brew bucket before I even tried it out.

The only other downside is that they are kind of difficult to clean.  I've been meaning to put one or both of them back in service, but they're pretty dirty and I just haven't had the motivation to clean them. 

Well, you need to bend the diptube up so it gives you a 1/2 gallon or so of dead space. This is what I did with my 5 gallon keg fermenters. They are a pain to clean, this is true. The bucket I've been using is nice, but I need to be really careful when cleaning so as to not scratch it, even the slightest. That makes me nervous. And the lid is a pain to get off, even with a tool. It sucks back sanitizer from the air lock when pushing down on the lid. That's annoying.
Need a 10 gallon keg! Plus it's so easy to take a gravity reading, pressurize, and not have to ever worry about oxidation. I love that about fermenting in kegs. Lessens my stress level.

28
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pure Pitch?
« on: August 05, 2015, 07:52:30 AM »
Wow, that sucks though. Pretty pure and "organic".

29
All Grain Brewing / Re: 50:50 or 60:40 Wheat to Vienna for Hefeweizen?
« on: August 05, 2015, 07:39:07 AM »
Sounds like an excellent grist for a dunkelweizen.  Add a little Carafa if you've got it and make the dunkelweizen!

Weizenbiers are pretty much all about the yeast anyway.  The malt is important, to a certain point, but does not totally make the style like the yeast does.  Use the right yeast and the malt bill doesn't matter nearly so much.


I don't think it has to be ALL ABOUT THE YEAST. I have a hefe on tap right now that is 55% wheat, the other half of the grist is equal amounts of vienna and munich. It's awesome. It's still pretty light in color but has a really nice malt character to pair with the banana/clove of the 3068 yeast. It's one of the best hefes I've brewed.

And I think dunkelweizen typically should have Munich I or II in it, not Vienna. You want that malty sweetness from the Munich in dunkelweizen.

So, JohnnyB, I say go for it. You won't be disappointed with the results.

30
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: IPL guidelines
« on: August 05, 2015, 07:34:26 AM »
Agree on 2124 or Saflager 34/70, makes a great IPL in my experience. Also great for black IPL, which I've taken to using lager yeast almost exclusively now for my black hoppy beer recipe, None More Black! I feel it really balances the hop and malt profile nicely.

Interested to hear what your experience is with 2278, Eric.

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