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Messages - beersk

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16
Bavarian hefeweizen on Saturday morning. I usually do one sooner as right about now is when I want to start drinking that style.

17
Wyeast 1764 at the low 60s turns out a good pilsner like beer. (Just don't tell those "like-minded individuals" or they'll ban you from their forum.) :)

Probably what got you banned. My lord, what were you thinking?  ;)
You been watching Game of Thrones, my lord?

And you just passed 1764 on your post count!

Anyway, I have a pils lagering right now with 2352 that, I think, turned out pretty nicely. It might be a full-on pilsner yeast, but it's showing promise. Might be more of a Bavarian style pils.

18
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer dumb phase
« on: May 17, 2016, 08:58:11 AM »
I think 2-3 weeks in the keg is just normal conditioning time. Gravity is pulling out unwanted particles and yeast. Chemical reactions are dealing with some off flavors.

My beers are generally good after a week in the keg, but peak after 1-2 more weeks. Usually the changes  in this timeframe are subtle but for the better.


+1.  A couple weeks of cold conditioning improves my beers quite a bit. Even when they look fairly clear going into the keg, some yeast and other sediment always drop out.
Agreed. Usually I keg and put it in a controlled chest in the shop to carbonate. Even if it sits there a month, the action of moving it to the kegerator in the house kicks up some dust and its usually not at its best for a couple more days.
This is why, ideally, I'd have twice as much or more spaces for kegs than taps in my kegerator.

I think once the beer clears coming out of the tap, it's starting to taste how it should. You can have a beer be clear going into the keg (if you cold crash, etc), but it won't be clear in a week if you tap it. Some haze will form, some of the yeast will drop out, muddying up the clarity and flavor. Once it clears, that's when it's good. Usually that's in the 3-4 week range for me.

Quote from: Phil_M
That's typically been the case for me as well. However, the two beers that I've fined with gelatin weren't that way. They got to their "peak" a little earlier IMO, about a week before the keg kicked instead of a day.
I've noticed this too. They taste thin at the end of the keg. I've stopped using gelatin (yet again) and am just going to let time being cold do its thing.

19
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: May 17, 2016, 06:38:39 AM »
Thanks, man. It's definitely dangerous! I can attest after last Friday night.  :)  Glad you liked it.

It's a take on the CYBI Arrogant Bastard recipe that I've tweaked a little over time:

OG 1.071
FG 1.010
IBU 96.4 (I know, hard to believe. The high crystal balances.)
SRM 23.7

87.6% U.S. 2 Row
10%   Special B
2.4%  Flaked Barley

55.5 IBU Chinook - 60
27.5 IBU Chinook - 15
13.4 IBU Chinook - 10
1 oz Chinook - 0 min (5 gallons)
1 oz Chinook - dry

WY 1098 - Pitch 62, hold 64F.

Brown Balanced

Mash 150F/90 mins @ 5.45 pH


Great looking beer, Jon. Did they ever deem this beer cloned or have they not gotten it yet? Either way, I really enjoy an all Chinook beer. I brewed an all Chinook Rye IPA some years ago that I still think of as one of the best I've brewed to date.


This was the one that everybody but Tasty thought was cloned. I don't think it's a clone but it's fairly close and, regardless, it's really tasty (no pun intended). I've actually tinkered with the hop schedule until I think that aspect of it is very close. It was never my goal to try to completely clone it anyway, just get in the ballpark and have a nice beer. I think I succeeded.

Edit - The flaked barley wasn't in the CYBI recipe but I love the foam and body it gives.
Neato. I think I may have to give this a brew at some point soon. I have some 1318 I've been keeping going by top cropping, which probably isn't the right yeast, but I think it'd probably do.

20
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: May 17, 2016, 05:59:48 AM »
Thanks, man. It's definitely dangerous! I can attest after last Friday night.  :)  Glad you liked it.

It's a take on the CYBI Arrogant Bastard recipe that I've tweaked a little over time:

OG 1.071
FG 1.010
IBU 96.4 (I know, hard to believe. The high crystal balances.)
SRM 23.7

87.6% U.S. 2 Row
10%   Special B
2.4%  Flaked Barley

55.5 IBU Chinook - 60
27.5 IBU Chinook - 15
13.4 IBU Chinook - 10
1 oz Chinook - 0 min (5 gallons)
1 oz Chinook - dry

WY 1098 - Pitch 62, hold 64F.

Brown Balanced

Mash 150F/90 mins @ 5.45 pH


Great looking beer, Jon. Did they ever deem this beer cloned or have they not gotten it yet? Either way, I really enjoy an all Chinook beer. I brewed an all Chinook Rye IPA some years ago that I still think of as one of the best I've brewed to date.

21
Good to know that foil is probably okay, I may keep using that method for now. Like Peter said, it's probably good enough of a barrier.

22
WLP838 is a good one, I'm usually a Wyeast person, but that 838 is solid stuff. But you also can't go wrong with 2124.
So, is WLP838 the same as WY 2308 Munich Lager? I've used WY 2308 before, but not in a German Pils. Like Jon, I like my German Pils to have a crisp finish.
My recent experience with 838 has made pretty crisp tasting beers. Jeff would you agree it's a good choice for pilsner or no?
That Mr. Malty list does say 838 is the same as 2308, so...I don't know, maybe it's not what you're after. But it seemed pretty crisp to me the last times I've used it.

Off topic: I noticed that list has Denny's Favorite 50 listed as Wy2450 not 1450.

23
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: May 15, 2016, 07:29:00 PM »
Latest dort.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'll bet it tastes even better than it looks!

24
I used tin foil for my last batch. Kind of wondering if aluminium shouldn't be used though...but it seemed like an easy solution. I have seran wrap as well. I don't have a way to underlet my mash though. Might be a future upgrade. For now, I've been siphoning my water into my kettle for heating and into my mashtun from the kettle and doughing in very carefully. I'm just hoping that it makes SOME amount of difference to limit the O2 pickup and not just an all-or-nothing sort of thing. I can't imagine water saturated with 2ppm O2 versus 8ppm O2 would give the same results, but who knows...seems like the less O2 saturation the better malt flavors there would be, as opposed to 0ppm versus, say, 1ppm being the difference between great and oxidized. There has to be some gray area...

Why would the foil be a problem  And will you do back to back batches with blind tasting to evaluate?
What you're suggesting I do is brew, say, two 2.5 gallon batches, do everything I can to minimize O2 pickup for one and do what I normally do for the other batch, test them in a blind triangle test to see if they're different?
Jon had a good way of putting it at the end of his last post.

Tin foil...aluminum...I don't know, just seems like maybe there'd be a reason why that'd be bad to do...if not, then it's perfect; foil fits perfectly in my mash tun.

25
WLP838 is a good one, I'm usually a Wyeast person, but that 838 is solid stuff. But you also can't go wrong with 2124.

26
Love the Saran Wrap idea as a mash cap - gonna steal that one. I'd been overcomplicating it. I was trying to figure out the best material to fabricate one. Thanks for the tip!
I used tin foil for my last batch. Kind of wondering if aluminium shouldn't be used though...but it seemed like an easy solution. I have seran wrap as well. I don't have a way to underlet my mash though. Might be a future upgrade. For now, I've been siphoning my water into my kettle for heating and into my mashtun from the kettle and doughing in very carefully. I'm just hoping that it makes SOME amount of difference to limit the O2 pickup and not just an all-or-nothing sort of thing. I can't imagine water saturated with 2ppm O2 versus 8ppm O2 would give the same results, but who knows...seems like the less O2 saturation the better malt flavors there would be, as opposed to 0ppm versus, say, 1ppm being the difference between great and oxidized. There has to be some gray area...

27
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Beer won't Come out of Keg :-(
« on: May 14, 2016, 05:54:53 PM »
Have you asked the beer nicely to come out?
Are you a Douglas Adams fan per chance? :)

28
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Iodine vs Starsan
« on: May 14, 2016, 05:38:16 PM »
I have a spray bottle of Starsan solution that gets refilled every couple weeks; I use RO water for that. Otherwise, when I keg or for my fermenter on brew day, I'll make a fresh couple quarts of Starsan solution. Nothing sits around for too long unless it's in a stored and pressurized keg. In that case, there may be a couple cups of Starsan solution sitting in there for weeks.

29
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: May 14, 2016, 05:34:52 PM »
I'm sick of looking at all of the gin-clear lagers around here ;P

I'm still hoping more of the hop smeg will drop out, but here's my take at a hazy IPA:

This is with a flashlight directly against the back of the glass:

Gelatin is magic.

Oh no he di'n't!!!

This supposed to be some kind of Hill Farmstead/Heady Topper wankery for the cloudy-on-purpose deal?

30
Got it.  Ok, so it is then an issue of most people just flat out don't like the authors then?  I'm not trying to be argumentative or troll, but this makes a lot more sense now.  Admittedly, I was late to this party and didn't have this background, so you've answered my questions!

For me, it has nothing to do with whether I like or dislike anybody.
Of course it's because you have money at stake, Denny. Some invisible product that you're selling is in jeopardy because of this "new" information. Don't you see? You have to protect your...whatever it is that is getting you money for brewing the "old" way.
I thought all of Denny's books were funded by "big oxygen", so this campaign to get rid of it would put him in financial ruin.
I'm sure he's just rolling in it from his books! O2 is not the Devil! ...right, Denny?

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