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Messages - beersk

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1501
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Unfiltered beer
« on: August 01, 2014, 10:04:19 AM »
Carbing in the bottles will then take longer, presumably?

perhaps slightly, but since it is fresh healthy yeast, if you keep the bottles in a 75-80f space they should carb up plenty fast.
Hmmm, perhaps. It might take a little bit longer. I've got a dampfbier carbonating now that I cold crashed for 5 days, bottled it, and it's been 2 weeks. It's still bit light on carbonation. I trust that it will carbonate, but it just might take 4 weeks to get there. It's damn clear though, and I like that. And there's just a dusting on the bottom of the bottle (like Sierra Nevada) and I also really like that.
I would add yeast to my bottling "bucket" (keg), but I don't want to waste most of a pack.  The extra time waiting for it to carb is good for the beer anyway. I'm usually drinking all my beer (on tap) waaaaay too early and young.

1502
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle bombs, they can happen to the pros too
« on: August 01, 2014, 07:04:04 AM »
I suppose it's possible. I've never had one and hope I never do.

1503
I don't even dry hop anymore. I load the end of the boil up with hops and find I have plenty of flavor and aroma for my tastes. Maybe it wouldn't be enough for you... But I'm not a huge hop head, so that probably explains most of it. I mean, don't get me wrong, I love hoppy beers, just not for every beer, ya know? I'm more into balance...

1504
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in a corney keg
« on: July 30, 2014, 05:32:16 PM »
Oh, good. So it's not just me then...

Cheers, fella. I won't hijack the thread any longer. Sorry, OP!

1505
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in a corney keg
« on: July 30, 2014, 12:29:55 PM »
So, did you boil all your poppets and what not to get rid of the infection?
Yes.  I replaced all tubing, boiled everything small, and hit everything else with a sanitizer I don't normally use.
I see. I just cleaned my racking jumper and disconnects with BLC recently, I would think that would take care of the problem, if there were bacteria in there. Poppets could probably be boiled though to be safe.
After a keg empties, the crud on the bottom of the keg is kinda brown and flakey looking. It's doesn't look like yeast that settled out...I wonder if that's a sign of something...
I don't want to derail the thread here though.

OP, I bought a pump that I can recirculate ice water through my chiller with. It works great for getting down to lager pitching temps.

1506
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in a corney keg
« on: July 30, 2014, 11:20:04 AM »
Thanks for the good replies.  Another question, I am using White 833 German Bock Yeast.  Should I start fermentation at room temp and then move to fridge?  Or just start it in the fridge?
It's best to pitch the yeast at or below your planned fermentation temperature. Put the fermenter in the fridge over night to let it cool down to the upper 40's or low 50's, then aerate and pitch.

1507
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in a corney keg
« on: July 30, 2014, 11:17:21 AM »
So, did you boil all your poppets and what not to get rid of the infection? I am highly doubting this is infection for me, but not ruling it out. But it seems equally as unlikely it's oxidation too, but also not ruling that out. I'm guessing I either didn't purge my keg enough OR it's a combination of the special B and victory malts (albeit there was only about 4% of each in the grain bill, along with rye and just plain 2-row) making me perceive this character after some hop aroma/flavor faded. Not sure. But if it persists in other beers...well I'll know.

My issue was a moldy gas disconnect before. Tore apart the entire gas side of my system, cleared that problem right up. And it was VERY demoralizing for about 2 years.

1508
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in a corney keg
« on: July 30, 2014, 09:27:18 AM »
ajk - I do essentially the same thing. Except, I'm starting to think I should do the fill the keg with sanitizer thing to purge all the O2. I had a recent pale ale get a little butterscotch thing that I think may be from oxidation from possibly not purging the keg enough as it's only 3.5 gallons of beer in there. I may not be purging my kegs well enough. But, I maybe try doing the gravity thing like you're doing as well. I've just been using 10 PSI to push beer from the primary to the serving keg.
I don't know if that really is what caused the butterscotchyness or not. I hope so, because I've had to track down infections this last year and a bit and man, does it make you consider quitting brewing...

1509
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in a corney keg
« on: July 30, 2014, 08:27:11 AM »
Are you planning to primary ferment in the keg? If so, you can make a jumper hose with two (black) liquid disconnects, 5 feet of 3/16" beer line, and hook up from liquid out to liquid out and do a closed transfer. It's how I ferment, and I love it.

1510
WHen I batch sparged, I tended to be a bit of a heavy stirrer. I also just dumped my sparge water in rather aggressively, Something I've recently read may contribute to oxidation. Maybe I'm dealing with a combination of the two?
I doubt this, highly...

I think it could be oxidation post fermentation and possibly at bottling time.

I'm dealing with a beer, a rye pale ale, that had a slight butterscotch happening in the keg. It may have been oxidation from not adequately purging the headspace. It was 3.5 gallons in the keg, perhaps I didn't purge well enough. But I bottled a bunch of it off and noticed the butterscotch last night. No slick mouth feel though. I don't know where else it would come from (I am damn sure at this point that it's not coming from my gas lines).
Then again, I could be imaging it. It was with Kohatu hops, rye, 4oz special B, and 4oz Victory. It could be a combination of those malts that makes me think butterscotch when it could just be caramel/toffee that I'm tasting.
It's not too unpleasant either, in this case. But I've definitely had some IPAs ruined by contamination of my gas lines (mold in disconnect from back flow) that caused intense butterscotch after a week or so in the keg. I almost quit brewing because I couldn't figure out why that was happening.
So I'm usually put off when ever I perceive what might be butterscotch, anymore...

1511
Hmm, I'd be hesitant to say it's coming from the blow off side, however, I don't do pressurized fermentations. I use ball lock kegs to ferment 4 gallon batches and never sanitize my blow off tubes (gas disconnect with tubing going into jar of sanitizer or water). Although maybe I should... Perhaps you aren't getting your spears clean enough? I assume you're running cleaner and sanitizer through the whole system? I don't I don't really do the cleaner part for my fermenter kegs, just rinse well, use a dip tube brush, make sure poppets are clean, then fill part way with sanitizer, pressurize and let sit like that until I need it again.
I would say maybe post your question on the pressurized fermentation thread on Homebrewtalk to see if it's possibly coming from the blow off side.

1512
Well, you can always let the beer warm up. Easier to do that than having it be too warm and wanting to cool it down.

1513
Beer Recipes / Re: First Lager
« on: July 23, 2014, 12:03:24 PM »
Hmmm, a forgiving style would maybe be a darker style. Maybe a vienna lager or a schwarzbier would be your best bet. Something light and delicate like a helles wouldn't be the best since there is nothing to hide any flaws. Maybe try a 1/3 each of vienna, munich, and pils malt, with maybe 1/2 to 1 pound of caramunich to get you in the 12 SRM range. Hop with noble hops to 20 IBU, and use a clean lager yeast with a big starter or dry yeast of something like Wy2124 or Saflager 34/70.
Or a schwarzbier with mostly pils malt for the base with a little caramunich and dehusked Carafa III to the mid 20's SRM.

1514
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerating Wort Techniques
« on: July 23, 2014, 11:43:21 AM »
I use an aeration stone in the end of a wand (William's Brewing) and the red O2 canisters. I don't like doing that as much though because the O2 canisters are disposable and can't be recycled...waste of materials. But I still use them. I have a mixstir that I use occasionally, but the pure O2 route is just so much easier and more reassuring that the wort will have adequate O2 absorption.

1515
Don't invert the bottles more than once. Once should be enough, otherwise, you're risking oxidation. It takes more time than 13 days sometimes. You need to be patient.

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