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Messages - beersk

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1591
All Grain Brewing / Re: equal amounts for 1st and 2nd runnings
« on: September 10, 2013, 01:36:21 PM »
I feel that my LHBS must change the gaps on their mills constantly whether it is intentional or not. My process is consistent yet my efficiency is extremely variable from batch to batch.

This next batch will be a test of sorts with my new grain mill. It's nothing special but at least I will be able to remove it from the equation once I decide on a constant crush.

pH is defintely something I will need to address in the future...
Yeah, address pH and water chemistry when you're ready. Getting your own mill is a big and important step.

1592
All Grain Brewing / Re: equal amounts for 1st and 2nd runnings
« on: September 10, 2013, 12:26:47 PM »
I shoot for close volumes, but I am always within a gallon.
Difficult to do with a high gravity beer, where you still want to mash at 1.25-1.5qt per gallon and still make up your planned volume with the sparge.
I brewed a weizenbock, 4 gallon batch recently, with 17qt in the mash and 10qt in the sparge, and that was still planning to boil for 90 minutes.
For the most part, I think it's been shown to help if you keep the runnings close enough. Most beers I do is usually with in a quart or two between mash and sparge.

1593
Beer Recipes / Re: Should I just give up on lagers?
« on: September 05, 2013, 01:00:53 PM »
I certainly wouldn't give up on lagers. I'm having trouble with light lagers. My other lagers are turning out pretty well. I'm starting to get into acidifying my sparge water, hoping that makes the difference I'm looking for. That ties into kettle pH, I think, and getting a crisp beer in the end.

1594
I'd probably keg first. If you haven't already gotten there already, bottling gets so tedious, and sometimes, kegging is the only reason you keep doing it at that point. I went all grain, first. But, if you don't mind bottling, definitely go all grain. Either way, your beer and the enjoyment of said beer, will likely increase.

1595
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Security Breach at Midwest Supplies
« on: September 03, 2013, 01:58:21 PM »
Saw that. They aren't getting very positive responses. I think I had my card number stolen a couple years ago. A charge showed up on my account from California, some flower shop. The only place I had been using it much online was Midwest.
But I'm not blaming them, really. Hopefully, they have it all resolved.

1596
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Mangrove Jack's Dry Yeast
« on: September 03, 2013, 06:18:15 AM »
I used the MJ Newcastle brown in a 1.048 northern English brown, rehydrated, oxygenated, Wyeast nutrient, mashed at 152, fermented at a constant 68f, and it quit at 1.028. Lame! Wlp007 finished the job.
A friend used it in a 1.040 extract beer, not rehydrated, aerated, no temp control, and it finished at 1.006. The beer kind of sucked but we won't blame the yeast on that one. ;)
I forgot to mention that I used Wyeast nutrient in my Oktoberfest this weekend as well. Not terribly impressed so far with this company and their yeast. But I'm giving them a chance. I have some of the Newcastle Dark Ale yeast, as well as a packet of the West Coast Ale and Hefe yeasts. So if this kind of business continues, I'll be going back to Fermentis yeasts.

You really jumped in with both feet on this mfg.  I hope most, if not all, turn out well.  I have noticed that first generation pitches of dry lager yeast have been a bit slow (even with 34/70), but on repitch they usually take right off, so you may want to see if a second gen goes quicker for the lager yeast.  Keep us posted, Beersk, and thanks for the willingness to go this route on a new company's strains.
I guess I did, didn't I? Well, I like that there's another dry yeast option. I don't like to use liquid strains much during the warmer months. But upon repitch, I'm sure they're be a lot better. I've brewed with the Bohemian lager, Newcastle Dark, and Hefe yeasts now. But, the time of liquid yeast is coming with the awesome fall weather. Can't wait...

1597
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Don't buy that stir plate
« on: September 03, 2013, 06:14:25 AM »
Well, if you like all that, your gonna love this - I boil my finished fermenting beer. 
Trying to make a non-alcoholic beer, right?

1598
Equipment and Software / Re: Devising a Mash Tun for One Gallon Batches
« on: August 30, 2013, 05:40:20 AM »
The only advice I can give for BIAB is try not to direct heat the mash if you can help it. It creates hot spots (even with stirring!) that will denature enzymes and leave you with beers that won't finish lower than 1.020 or so. Unless you have a kettle with a thermometer on the bottom. I made this mistake on several beers. I tried pitching more yeast, aerating longer and better, mashing lower, etc. Nothing worked. Until the last one I did, I didn't touch the mash at all for 60 minutes, and the beer finished at 1.009. I thought I was stirring really well to eliminate those hot spots, but apparently not. From now on, whenever I do a brew in a bag, I won't direct heat, maybe only for mashout.
Good luck!

1599
Equipment and Software / Re: Devising a Mash Tun for One Gallon Batches
« on: August 29, 2013, 07:21:09 AM »
Definitely go BIAB, it's a no-brainer for small batch brewing.

1600
Ingredients / Re: Floor Malted Pilz thoughts
« on: August 29, 2013, 07:09:43 AM »

1601
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dry yeast question
« on: August 28, 2013, 01:14:22 PM »
There is absolutely no reason to rehydrate, other than the fact that the rehydration process (in water) allows the dry yeast to re-build cell walls and to absorb the nutrient built into the drying process prior to the metabolic stress of the wort sugars being introduced intracellularly.  The viability is nearly doubled by rehydrating with water.

To me that actually sounds like a pretty good reason to rehydrate. 

I've done it both ways and never noticed a difference in performance.  However, I've never performed the infamous blind triangle tasting either.
I think he was possibly being sarcastic. I rehydrate always now. It's easier to pour into a carboy and it's better for yeast health. Do whatch you want.

1602
Ingredients / Re: Floor Malted Pilz thoughts
« on: August 27, 2013, 05:40:32 AM »
Paul,

I will be over in just a jiffy.
Yeah, me too.

1603
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Marshall..... Amp or Fridge?
« on: August 20, 2013, 06:39:11 AM »
The fridge looks so much better with that hot chick standing beside it too. I have a crate half stack...would rather have a Marshall for sure. Too bad I suck at guitar. I'm a drummer, been playing since I was about 12 or 13.

1604
All Grain Brewing / Re: how do you add your salts?
« on: August 19, 2013, 10:55:47 AM »
I measure out what I need and add to the water as it's heating. Never seem to have an issue getting it to dissolve...

1605
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Refrigerator or chest freezer?
« on: August 16, 2013, 01:51:48 PM »
I can't answer with any authority, as I don't know, but I can't imagine it would.  You shouldn't be short cycling the motor which is where the wear and tear would come from.

My plan is to get an upright fridge because I don't look forward to lifting fermenters in and out of a chest freezer.  I see back pain when I think of that.  And I don't want to spend months rigging some sort of block and tackle in my basement to eliminate the lifting.
This is why I switched and went the fridge route for fermenting and freezer for kegerator. Got tired of lifting carboys in and out of the freezer.

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