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Messages - beersk

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1756
Beer Recipes / Re: Black IPA
« on: March 21, 2013, 01:12:23 PM »
Honestly, I would've cut out the chocolate malt and called it good. I think with a pound of roasted malts, it's gonna be pretty roasty, even with the debittered black.

1757
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Whirlfloc and Fluffy Trub
« on: March 21, 2013, 07:05:07 AM »
So are you guys really worried about the clarity of your beer or what's the deal? I don't have clarity issues and I don't use whirlfloc or irish moss. I don't need every beer to be clear like a lager either. Enough cold time (a couple weeks) gives me a nice clear beer.
Or is there an actual flavor difference that using whirlfloc aids in improving? This all just seems like paranoia and OCD stuff to me.

1758
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Irish Moss vs. Whirlfloc
« on: March 21, 2013, 06:21:06 AM »
I used to use both, but haven't for a while because I'm not sure it really matters for me since I lift and dump my wort into the carboy instead of draining from a valve. And also, I agitate my chiller when it gets to about 70-80F to mix the wort more and chill faster. So I'm not sure it even helps to use the stuff for me. But maaaaaybe it does...hmmm.

I had run out for several months and recently bought some more and was reminded how well it works when I saw the clarity in the hydrometer flasks.
Well, perhaps it's time I give them another try.

1759
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash-in
« on: March 20, 2013, 08:30:31 PM »
I add grain to water. I'm generally dumping 3-4 gallons of strike water into a 5 gallon round (and orange  :P ) cooler from my kettle, so this is really the only option for me. Otherwise I'd be afraid to kick up a bunch of dust when I dump in my water. I also think this gives me good control over doughballs since I can add my grain slowly while stirring.

Orange round coolers unite!!  ;D

It doesn't matter what order you use with a blue cooler....No dough balls!

AND 137% efficiency even with NO water at all!
That can't be right...

1760
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash-in
« on: March 20, 2013, 10:34:51 AM »
Another for grain to water!

1761
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Irish Moss vs. Whirlfloc
« on: March 20, 2013, 10:31:55 AM »
I used to use both, but haven't for a while because I'm not sure it really matters for me since I lift and dump my wort into the carboy instead of draining from a valve. And also, I agitate my chiller when it gets to about 70-80F to mix the wort more and chill faster. So I'm not sure it even helps to use the stuff for me. But maaaaaybe it does...hmmm.

1762
Equipment and Software / Re: Help with mash tun size
« on: March 19, 2013, 09:30:17 AM »
I'm looking at 150 qt but they only come in green or white. No Blue so I don't know what to do.

My dirty secret...my 152 is white.....ssssshhhhh.......
And now we know the truth!

1763
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash-out
« on: March 19, 2013, 09:17:12 AM »
Right. Depending on how large the grain bill, I typically use 180-185F sparge water. But it's been shown that it doesn't really matter if you sparge with 168F, 160F, 180F water, etc. I don't think it makes a difference. Just so long as you don't sparge too hot, as in getting the grain bed over 170F, and extract tannins.

1764
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: protein rest..why, why not, and when
« on: March 15, 2013, 12:13:48 PM »
I have been wondering the same thing.

1765
All Grain Brewing / Re: Switching to All Grain
« on: March 14, 2013, 09:26:02 AM »
*cough* brew in a bag *cough*, IS probably the easiest way to try it out.

1766
All Grain Brewing / Re: Starter All Grain Equipment
« on: March 12, 2013, 11:44:51 AM »
BIAB does seem like a good way to start, if you want to give it a try before building a tun. 



Having said that, I don't think there's a heck of a lot of time savings between BIAB and batch sparging. If you already are set up for batch or fly sparging, I don't see a big reason to switch to BIAB. It would be good if you wanted to add a separate pilot system or cut down your batch sizes, but otherwise the time savings isn't as huge as people say it is.
It's true, there isn't a ton of time savings, it still takes me about 4 1/2 hours to brew a batch.  I do, however, get better efficiency with brew in a bag because I can mill finer, not having to worry about stuck runoffs, and I can squeeze the bag to get extra wort out. So those really are the benefits for me, other than the fact that it's simple and easy. Plus I like being able to keep my mash temperature steady at whatever temp I want with direct fire and a false bottom. That does mean I need to constantly stir the mash while I'm direct firing it, but it's really no big deal for me.
I like the idea of using all my water in one go, put in all my salts, etc.

1767
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxidation Story and Question
« on: March 11, 2013, 07:14:09 AM »
I think oxidation leads to diacetyl reformation as well. I've been having an issue with diacetyl showing up in some hoppy beers. I think it's from taking gravity readings too frequently and perhaps too much headspace in the kegs since I do 3-4 gallon batches and also not treating my yeast as I should. Could be wrong though, I'm still troubleshooting this issue.
You can get oxidation if finished beer has the diacetyl precursor left in it, and the precursor oxidizes to diacetyl. This is one more reason why you want to keep the beer away from oxygen when you package. Packaging breweries purge the bottles with CO2 before filling.

Infections will also kick out diacetyl. Pedio is one that kicks out a large amount. When it is in sour beers, one has to have Brett along with it, as the Brett will use up the diacetyl.
The reason I don't think this issue I've been having occasionally is not Pedio is because there is no sour that accompanies it. The beer tends to turn buttery/butterscotchy in the keg after a week or so, and it's mainly noticeable in hoppy beers.  I'm thinking it's from diacetyl precursors still in the beer from poor yeast management and oxidation from taking too many gravity samples, perhaps introducing oxygen at kegging, and not giving the beer enough time in the primary (usually go 2 weeks, perhaps should start going 3).

1768
All Grain Brewing / Re: Starter All Grain Equipment
« on: March 10, 2013, 04:23:52 PM »
I'm going to suggest brew in a bag, because it's awesome and easy. I did the cooler thing for the last several years only to find brew in a bag, and I love it. It combines the ease of extract brewing with the control of all grain. And it's cheaper for start up. Currently, I do 3 gallon brews in a bag on the stove top. Dig it.

BIAB seems like a viable method of you do small batches like you do.  But when I think about lifting a bag with 15+ lb. of hot, wet grain, it makes me glad for my cooler.
True. I think brew in a bag is practical really for the up-to-5-gallons kinda brewing; I think it's still a viable method for 5 gallons. But much more and you're limited, for sure. People have ways to hang the bag and whatnot over the kettle instead of having to hold it while it drains.

1769
All Grain Brewing / Re: Starter All Grain Equipment
« on: March 10, 2013, 12:49:17 PM »
I'm going to suggest brew in a bag, because it's awesome and easy. I did the cooler thing for the last several years only to find brew in a bag, and I love it. It combines the ease of extract brewing with the control of all grain. And it's cheaper for start up. Currently, I do 3 gallon brews in a bag on the stove top. Dig it.

1770
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxidation Story and Question
« on: March 09, 2013, 10:27:20 PM »
I think oxidation leads to diacetyl reformation as well. I've been having an issue with diacetyl showing up in some hoppy beers. I think it's from taking gravity readings too frequently and perhaps too much headspace in the kegs since I do 3-4 gallon batches and also not treating my yeast as I should. Could be wrong though, I'm still troubleshooting this issue.

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