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Messages - rob_f

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I've never been able to cold crash a fermenter in almost twenty years of brewing. I do what Frank suggested, cold crash in the keg.  First pint is yeasty; toss it.  If I've dry hopped in the fermenter, I put a nylon bag over the end of the racking cane to filter the hops.

I use a 15-gal kettle for 5-gallon batches 90% of the time.  But when I'm brewing for an event or a party, I'll do 8 or 10 gallons so that I'll still have some beer left.  That flexibility is worth the larger kettle to me.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Tippy Dump
« on: March 19, 2018, 01:05:47 PM »
At that size maybe a manway should be considered.  Shovel that mash out like a pro.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: IMF "International Maltiness Factor"
« on: March 11, 2018, 12:13:23 AM »
Drinking a fine Wee Heavy as I write this, and I have to say its IMF is off the charts.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg temperature
« on: February 12, 2018, 07:46:51 PM »
Infrared thermometers work best on flat black, worst on shiney.  I wouldn't believe the 60 degree readings.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Beer Gun
« on: February 07, 2018, 01:59:59 AM »
You're bottling carbonated beer, right? The carbonation won't increase in the bottle unless you've added priming sugar.  With a beer gun you shouldn't lose more than a psi or two of carbonation.  No way they should be flat.  Don't know what to tell you except that a splitter on your regulator wouldn't be a bad investment.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mashtun recommendations
« on: September 29, 2017, 06:31:07 PM »
I use a 10-gallon Igloo beverage cooler with a Coldbreak false bottom, Blichmann Auto-sparge, and home-made 240V RIMS and I can't think of anything I'd rather have.  Not shiny, but does everything I need.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Brun Water Question for Pale Ale profile
« on: August 30, 2017, 05:52:38 PM »
Phosphoric acid is considered more flavor-neutral.  At the typical 10-15% concentration available at shops you have to add a lot more of it than lactic.

My homebrew club does an "Iron Brewer" comp every year with ingredients drawn from a hat.  The first year was a kiwi-agave beer.  Those were so dreadful we now have veto power over proposed ingredients.  My kiwi-agave beer was extremely tart in an unpleasant way and the kiwi seeds were impossible to filter out.  I hung onto it for about a year hoping it would improve, but ultimately dumped it.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Great find!
« on: July 30, 2017, 08:18:52 PM »
I use Brewpi software for my fermentation chamber employing a raspberry pi, arduino, and relays. It has network connectivity and you can add a wi-fi module to the pi.  That concept could be employed for the hot side.  In fact the brewpi developers are into that now with spark.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bottle Conditioning question
« on: July 29, 2017, 12:03:17 PM »
You don't need to add yeast. When I used to bottle, I had success with lagers that had been at 33F for 6 weeks.  There's always yeast in solution if you haven't filtered.  You can add yeast if you're scared; it won't hurt.

This is what I use. Not as fancy as the one posted above. I got like a 20-pack of the CO2 cartridges which I consider a lifetime supply.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hops - Bag or No Bag
« on: July 22, 2017, 01:24:28 PM »
Used to use a hop spider, but whirlpooling Is a better solution.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Purge keg with Iodophor
« on: July 20, 2017, 03:15:41 PM »
Iodophor is great for kegs. After purging, if you can give the keg an hour or so for all the liquid to sheet down the sides just depress the liquid poppet and let the last of the iodophor spray up your arm.  What's left doesn't effect the lightest pilsner or wheat beer.

Equipment and Software / Re: Using upright freezer for fermenter
« on: July 03, 2017, 01:26:21 AM »
Some upright freezers have refrigeration coils attached to the shelves, rendering them useless for our purposes. I know from experience.

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