Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - jimrod

Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10 ... 13
Equipment and Software / Re: Thermowell for a Ranco
« on: May 19, 2012, 09:33:08 PM »
With enough time, it should read correctly either way.  Have you checked the probe with another thermometer? Has the probe gotten wet in the past?

Yes, it reads low in the thermowell only. It hasn't been wet but pinched a few times.

Equipment and Software / Re: Thermowell for a Ranco
« on: May 19, 2012, 07:22:19 AM »
The home made thermowell is 2 1/2" long and it is made from welded stainless. It screws into the side of my keggle. The tubing is a little over sized so the probe fits loose.  I didn't think that made a difference at the time but now I have to wonder why it's not keeping correct temperature readings?

Equipment and Software / Re: Thermowell for a Ranco
« on: May 18, 2012, 09:19:58 AM »
I think there is a special lube for the thermowell probes But I 'm beginning to think that this home made thermowell is too loose and made of too thick of a tubing.

Equipment and Software / Thermowell for a Ranco
« on: May 16, 2012, 07:22:38 AM »
The 1/4" dia. probe on my Ranco fits loose in my thermowell   .I think it's made from 5/16" tubing.

I am getting low readings of about 10-12 degrees and I'm not sure if it's a bad probe or should I buy a tighter fitting thermowell?  Say .260 ID.?


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Supplier...Stir plate...Erlenmeyer flask
« on: April 22, 2012, 06:21:47 AM »
This is a list of the materials I used. I'm not selling these things, I'm just giving a little helpful advice.

1 Computer fan of the 12 VDC variety 120 mm about $7.00
3 Rare earth magnets 35 lbs per pull, 1 for the keeper and 2 for the fan. Cost $3.35 each
1 Stir bar Cost $5.00
1 Potentiometer, 2,000 ohms Cost $5.00 
1 LM317 voltage regulator Cost $3.50
1 resistor, 330 ohms 4 pack Cost $3.00
1 capacitor, 0.1 mf 2 pack Cost $$3.50
1 Project box. Cost $7.00
1 12 volt transformer Cost $3.50
1 plastic dial for the pot  $3.50
That's a total of over $50.00 You can get one made and sent to you for that price.

Without the right resistor, capacitor, voltage regulator, and potentiometer you won't be able to control the RPMs and you'll throw the stir bar to the side of your flask.

Now I know that some people have some of this stuff laying around so you might as well put it to good use. Also, these are Radio Shack prices so if you hunt you can probably find it cheaper.

Equipment and Software / Re: Boiling out a ball valve
« on: April 18, 2012, 01:16:25 PM »
Boiling water removes the oxygen.

I am doing what you are talking about.

I have a Sabco clone fermenter which I made from a Sanke keg. I installed a SS ball valve that can be turned down to the bottom of the fermenter or turned up to collect clear beer. I've welded a ball lock on the top to hold my blow off tube and/or to add 2 psi in order to push the clear beer out the drain valve and up into my corney kegs. There is no need to move the keg in order to transfer beer. Why cloud up the joint.

All this is done in my spare kegerator (everyone needs 2). The fit is tight and it has a small foot print.  I use a Ranco controller and a thermowell connected to the keg.  My Ranco is outside the fridge and I just shut the door on the wire with absolutely  no problem or temp loss.

Equipment and Software / Re: volume gauge
« on: April 16, 2012, 01:39:46 PM »
So if you beer style calls for 2.7 volumes per liter, what is the static psi measurement?
Do you first purge the keg then shake a little to get the measurement?
Then the static psi measurement for 2.7 volumes at 40 degrees is 14 psi and the gauge should read 14 ?

Equipment and Software / volume gauge
« on: April 16, 2012, 07:35:04 AM »
Is there a piece of equipment that can measure the volumes of CO2 in the keg? For me there is a fine line between under carbed and foamy. I can't seem to get it perfect.

Pimp My System / Re: My system
« on: April 15, 2012, 06:13:05 AM »
now that you've had it for a while, does it perform as well as it looks?

Ingredients / Re: Water, how important is it?
« on: April 11, 2012, 03:28:03 PM »
These are the treatments for this very light beer, but I still got an astringent taste. It almost seems overboard to go the trouble and not get a better beer.
0.50 gm Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
2.40 tsp Lactic Acid (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
3.80 gm Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
4.60 gm Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
5.88 gm Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 min) Misc
80% - 14.00 gal Distilled Water Water
20% - City, Colorado River + treatment

Ingredients / Re: Water, how important is it?
« on: April 11, 2012, 03:07:44 PM »
Here is my report from the city, I had this text to me from an employee inside the water district, It differs slightly from the published reports. Murrieta, Califronia.

pH 7.9
Calcium: __(52-75) 64_ ppm
Magnesium: _(21-28) 25_ppm
Sodium:___(80-100) 91___ppm
Sulfate:___(160-240) 210__ppm
Chloride:___(88-98) 96____ ppm           
Bicarbonate:_99 (from Sept 2011)__
Hardness: _(11-18)  15_ grains per gallon or__(190-300) 260_ mg/l
Alkalinity __(91-130) 110__
Hardness: see above

Ingredients / Water, how important is it?
« on: April 11, 2012, 03:19:10 AM »
I've visited 4 small breweries in different areas of California in the last month and each of them said that they don't treat their cities water, they only filter the water. Their beers tastes great and in some cases very great.

I have been adjusting my water using the profile supplied to me by the city. In the case of real light colored beers, I've been cutting the city water with distilled to get the elements to the correct PPM and then adding calcium chloride and other things.

How important is it to get the water elements to the perfect PPM? And why don't they treat the water?

All Grain Brewing / astringency and over sparging
« on: April 11, 2012, 03:04:21 AM »
I have also been getting some overly astringent beers and I am wondering if I am over sparging. What is over sparging? I'm usually brew 10 gal batches.

Currently I fly sparge. I strike at 168* to get the the mash to 150*-154*.  When the mash gets below 150. My Ranco starts the pump and recirculates the liquid through the HLT and moves it back on top of the grain to bring it up to temp. The pump isn't always recirculating but it could be on periodically throughout the 60-90 min. mash time.

I'll drain slowly for about 30-45 min into the boil tank while adding 180* water over the top of the mash. I'm careful to keep the pH of the mash around 5.4 using lactic acid if needed. I usually add about 3 ml. of lactic acid per 6 gal of sparge water for tap water that has a pH of 8.0.

Does it sound like I'm doing it right?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Supplier...Stir plate...Erlenmeyer flask
« on: April 10, 2012, 07:51:34 AM »
Don't try to build your own stir starter and expect to save money. If you do it right, they give you the schematic if you need one, you'll spend more money and only create a headache for yourself.

I built 2 but if I were to do it again I think I would just pay the guy the money and have it shipped to me.

Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10 ... 13