3-gallon ESB with a simple grain bill and Lallemand ESB yeast. Second time using distilled water + Bru'n Water calculations. First time with the yeast.
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I think the default setting for the jumpers is for cooling and you need to switch the jumpers to use a heating source. Is this the first time you are using a heater with the controller?
Sounds like you had the logic reversed on the controller. You should be able to quickly check that by plugging in a lamp and place the sensor in a glass of water near the setpoint and adjust it up and down with additional hot and ice.
If the temp sensor was just sitting in the air around the fermenter, I doubt the beer got as hot as the air around it in that short timeframe. The batch may not be a goner if it just got into the 70's (depending on the yeast you're using).
With your ambient temps, you may need to cool and not heat during the early phases of fermentation. Just a hunch with no other info.
If pressed for time, I would leave everything disconnected and crack the door on the fridge. Mid to low's 60's in the house plus a little heat from fermentation may keep your beer in the high 60's during the early and vigorous part of fermentation.
That makes sense. I do have Jamil's book "Brewing Classic Styles," so maybe I'll pick a beer with fewer malts and hops that's also a session beer. Unfortunately, that's not a style I like that much. Is it at least a good sign that I've hit my target OG on the beers I've made so far? Or did I just get lucky?
My unpopular brewing opinion is in too many craft beers the main purpose of hops is to camouflage flaws in the brewing process.
My first one broke when I slid it back in to the plastic tube it comes in after using it one day. No joke, it hit the thin plastic on the bottom of the tube and shattered. I bought my dual-scale refractometer shortly after that.I have no desire to go back to glass carboys whatsoever. I'm just too much of a klutz
Perhaps it would be helpful to add that I've been using the same hydrometer for >100 batches since 1999.
If I remember, I'll take a picture later. It reads 1.003 in plain water at 60 F, so I've had to subtract that for many many years. I did drop the thing at least twice, but it didn't break.
I'll still never be as awesome as Denny though.
Thanks for all of the answers. I should have known better, and after years of brewing stuff, I forgot how valuable patience is during the process. I think what I'll do is keep my glass for aging/high gravity (I've got a barleywine in one right now.) It sounds like buckets are the way to go. If I didn't have so many beers going, I could use my bottling bucket, but I'll probably need it to bottle at the same time something will need to be in a primary. I hadn't thought of the advantage of having a spigot. Onward and upward...
I'm another who ferments in by basement and brews the appropriate beer accordingly. I live in New England and have a deep cellar. I also built a root cellar that brings in cold air from outside. So during the winter I have spots in my house that are 45f (root cellar), upper 50's, low 60s and high sixties. The cellar is still around 60 in the spring and fall. I am too busy to brew much in the summer so I only do a saison or two. This situation has allowed me to put off temp control until I get a chance to build my dedicated brewery.
I love this beer!
from the Moonlight website:
"Death & Taxes Black Beer
A San Fransico-Style Black Lager. Deceptively light-bodied and highly drinkable. Drinks like iced coffee with a different effect.
Style: San Francisco-style Black Lager
Alc/Vol: 5.0 %
All that can be said to be certain in life."
Never tried to clone it, but my thinking is that a Schwarzbier recipe should be close. Dry finish, a bit less malty than something like Kostritzer? Malt and bitterness very well balanced.
Looks fine. Somewhere between 5.3 and 5.4 should be good. While I prefer the high sulfate of the pale ale profile, its safer to start low and see where your preference lays. The good thing with gypsum, is that you can still dose your beer after fermentation.
I suggest you figure out how much gypsum it would take to bring the sulfate content of a glass of your finished beer from your 150 ppm target to the 300 ppm range. Its going to be a teeny amount. Then add to a glass of beer and mix in. It should dissolve in a minute or so. Taste the stock and gypsumed beers and see which you prefer. Do be careful to keep the carbonation and temperature similar for both samples. The higher gypsum dose should make the beer finish drier. That may be a desirable or undesirable effect, depending on the style, the bittering level, and your tastes. Adding post-fermentation gypsum is especially useful when you've created a beer that seems too full or sweet.
You don't have to accept where the beer finished up, if its too full or sweet.
I think no-sparge makes better beer than any other mashing process, for all beer types. I'll duck and cover now.I don't think anyone ever said it didn't. I think most people don't do it is because you get lower efficiency and mashtun space is an issue.
Hmmm, maybe you're right. An unpopular method but a popular result.