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Messages - kgs

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631
Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 "oxygen barrier"
« on: March 28, 2011, 09:09:37 AM »
Then could CO2 be used to protect beer during the bottling process, by purging a (covered) bottling bucket with CO2 and then snaking the siphon hose through the airlock hole?

632
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing a high alcohol beer for xmas
« on: March 28, 2011, 08:30:33 AM »
This is great! Wish I'd asked this question three weeks ago, but glad other advice on this forum helped me through it. I made a 3-gallon batch of English barleywine and used a WLP007 starter made with 1.040 wort, and it was really jumping:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kgs/5527967819/

When I bottle, I plan to add half a packet of rehydrated yeast, also per advice on this forum.

633
Ingredients / Coconut palm sugar
« on: March 28, 2011, 08:14:53 AM »
On a whim, I bought a pound of this at a local health-food store (Rainbow Grocery in San Francisco). It's sugar made from the sap of the coconut palm tree. Anyone use this in a beer? I was thinking of using it in a sweet stout or a porter.

634
Classifieds / Re: Starter Kit Groupon Deal - until 3/27/2011
« on: March 27, 2011, 10:40:30 AM »
Midwest is offering a starter kit through Groupon for a half off until march 27.

If you are interested see:
http://www.groupon.com/deals/midwest-hydro-cincinnati-1?c=dnb&p=1

I have no affiliation with Groupon or Midwest Homebrewing.

Scott

Add a small bottle of Star-San and get yourself a spray bottle, and that would be a pretty good low-risk setup; if you kept brewing and later upgraded, nothing in that setup would go to waste (I still use my initial kit buckets for various purposes), and if you decided it wasn't for you, it would be easy to unload on Craigslist.

All you'd need then is a kettle and about 48 bottles. Bottles can be scrounged from friends before bottling day, cleaned, and sanitized. Try asking around if someone has a 8-gallon or larger SS or aluminum kettle. (Oh, and on the bottles, a jet bottle washer and a Vinator are helpful... but now we're into add-ons ;-) )


635
No brewing. Pondered a very tiny extract batch (too rainy/windy to brew outside) but stead will clean bottles and get other errands done.

636
I've wondered about a side income from online sales of a useful product, particularly one that didn't involve patent work, such as homebrew kettle conversion kits. Not really interested in doing this (until I invent the Unbreakable Hydrometer), just curious about the break-even point. 

637
All Grain Brewing / Re: dough-in method
« on: March 25, 2011, 06:21:26 PM »
sounds like a lot of good methods here.  i'm too nervous about adding all the hot liquor to a mash tun full of grain or just dumping all the grain at once into a mash tun full of hot liquor.  i might be overanalyzing it, but i cringe at the thought of dough-balls in my mash.

Gently, grasshopper! Pour slowly, stirring all the while. 1,000 one, 1,000 two...

638
All Grain Brewing / Re: dough-in method
« on: March 25, 2011, 12:59:08 PM »
I used to preheat but I decided it was one extra step that I didn't need to do.  I just took about 3 batches to experiment and find out how much hotter my water had to be if I didn't.  I hit my mash temps within a degree.

I mash in the kitchen (fairly constant temp) so I have found this also to be the case. I use Beersmith's strike water guidelines for my equipment setup, and that works great. I add grain to water in a slow steady stream, stirring gently with a 22" whisk. I tried water to grain... once once enough.

639
"Brewing Better Beer: Master Lesson for Advanced Homeowners [Paperback]"

Anyone see anything wrong with this title?  
If you're saying what I think you're saying, that's an Amazon problem.  If you click the ad at the top of this page you can see a picture of the book.

whoa, that is seriously wrong! at least the Library of Congress got it rightt.

640
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Why go all grain?
« on: March 21, 2011, 05:29:22 AM »
It's like the difference between making bread with a bread machine and making bread by hand using an oven.

Exactly--well, and also using a mix someone else put together versus using your own freshly-milled flour and other ingredients. If you're happy with your process, there's no shame in sticking with extract. But if you're the type to get deeper into what you're doing and explore the process, AG is the next step. Once you build a mash tun, the equipment cost is covered, and it will pay for itself almost immediately, so if you try all-grain and don't find it worth your while, it's not a huge loss. It's a cooler and some hardware, not a yacht or an RV.  ;D



641
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Adding yeast to barleywine at bottling
« on: March 20, 2011, 04:28:00 PM »

 Hydrate: Start a new thread and after 10 or 15 pages of different options you still won't have a definite answer.  ;D

Hah! True! Though for brewing, I am of the "just sprinkle" crowd, but that's because I'm then going to whisk the wort for at least five minutes. For bottling, hydrated yeast would appear to be easiest to gently incorporate. Or half a tube of liquid yeast, and use the other half for a starter for one of my small batches.

I bought a pot roast today, and I thought, are there people who spend this much time talking about pot roast? Then again, no one's ever asked me to bring my pot roast to a party...

642
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Adding yeast to barleywine at bottling
« on: March 20, 2011, 01:28:53 PM »
Fred makes a good point there about kegging, force carbing, and bottling

He does ( http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=6177.msg78348#msg78348 ). I'm halfway looking for an excuse to keg, but tying up my first keg til Xmas doesn't sound fun.

Thanks again for the help; that long thread was very useful, but the question of how much yeast, what kind, and whether to hydrate got a little buried.


643
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Adding yeast to barleywine at bottling
« on: March 20, 2011, 12:45:08 PM »
Thanks!

644
Kegging and Bottling / Adding yeast to barleywine at bottling
« on: March 20, 2011, 12:37:44 PM »
I have a 3.1-gallon batch of English barleywine I made for next Christmas clocking in at a little over 11% ABV and clearing up nicely.  When I bottle it in several more weeks, I assume I should add a little yeast. The original yeast was a starter made from WLP007.

How much yeast? Half a packet (dry), rehydrated?
What kind? (Safale 4?)

I doubt this matters, but I will be using 187-ml bottles.

(I started from this recipe but changed the hops schedule to get to the target IBUs  http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/JJsBarleywine)


645
.  not necessary with dry yeast to make a starter but you can spread out a package that way (if you are very careful) over several batches. 

would you split up the dry yeast? I'm considering a scale that could do that kind of measurement anyway.

I assume the point of the flask is to keep the sanitation chain of custody as limited as possible, reducing contamination points at a particularly crucial stage in the brewing process. though there may be an element of geek factor.

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