I'll add one wet hop as an IPA garnish, it's fun to bite on when getting near the end of the glass.
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I have the capability to brew 5 or 10 gallons, cooler mash tun or direct heat mash tun, fly sparge, batch sparge, no sparge and I prefer biab most of the time.
I mash 16# of grain in a $6 bag from the lhbs in 8 gallons of water in a 10 gallon pot and yield 7 1/4 gallons of 1.059 preboil wort.
It's been my experience that dry hopping in the primary will give you a reduced aroma vs dry hopping in a secondary or keg. I've read from many sources that the yeast cells absorb many of the volatile hop oils you want in the aroma from your dry hop addition. I've even heard of breweries actually filtering their beer prior to the dry hop to get better hop aromas.
Well, if that's true, luckily you can make it yourself! A friend of mine made a clone that was nearly spot on - all gleaned only from info on the NB website (nice Walt!). Check it out:
Your link is broken, which is really too bad. I also really liked the 2 Below. I grow Sterling hops, so I'd like to check out this recipe.
Anyone else have fitbit?
OK, but again, cara-red is not a crystal malt so if you expect it to act like a crystal malt - yeah, you'll be disappointed. It's like saying "I like CaraMunich better than Munich I" - of course you would if you were expecting the performance of a crystal malt.
You need to use a good percentage of cara-red to get the noticeable color and flavor contributions. Start with at least 10%-15% total grist. I wouldn't recommend using 10-15% of crystal in many beers, so you can see where the difference is starting to lie.
+1 to getting flavor from dry hopping - it's significant. The larger the amount of dry hops you use, the more flavor and aroma you get. I don't think it's far off to call it 50/50 flavor/aroma.
Maker's Mark is like the Sam Adams of craft beer.
Good way of putting it.
I like it