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Messages - bspisak

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General Homebrew Discussion / Iodine Test from WHERE?
« on: January 16, 2010, 04:14:17 AM »

So, I'm waiting for my pilsner mash at 147 to convert.... keep testing from the top of the mash and keep getting black.  I'm pushing 2 hours and still showing starch... light bulb... I check from a bit of runoff from the valve and viola!  I show good.  I test again from the top and show black.

So... what's going on?

Some breweries actually use a plate and frame filter to "squeeze" out the mash ...
Whenever I've tried that I get a lot of tannins in my beer. I wonder what they are doing different.

Perhaps it's a pH issue?

All Grain Brewing / Re: First stuck mash: batch sparge
« on: January 08, 2010, 04:02:51 PM »
Another suggestion I've heard is to run some tubing from the dead space at the bottom of the tun to the top in order to prevent a vacuum from forming.


Ok, so can I revise my conclusions as follows?

1) The lauter efficiency of a perfect fly sparge will always be equal to or greater than a perfect batch sparge for a perfectly designed lauter tun (such as Figure A.)

2) The lauter efficiency of a perfect fly sparge will be negatively impacted by a sub-optimal lauter tun design (such as Figure D) such that batch sparging may provide higher lauter efficiency.

On the subject of stirring, would stirring during lautering nulify the negative effects of a sub-optimal lauter tun design when fly sparging such that lauter efficiency of fly sparging again exceeds that of batch sparging?


Thanks Kaiser for putting so much thought and effort into documenting brewing processes and providing a resource for those of us who can't reference the German texts.

So, if I were to compare Batch to Fly sparging, I come up with the following:

1) Assuming a simple tun manifold with no dead space (Figure D), batch sparging can result in higher efficiency than fly sparging.

2) Assuming a false bottom with no dead space (Figure A), fly sparging will always yield better efficiency than batch sparging.

Is that correct?

All Grain Brewing / Re: First stuck mash: batch sparge
« on: January 07, 2010, 03:43:15 AM »
Most of the clear vinyl tubing I've seen at hardware stores is rated to 175F which should be fine for mash temps. In fact, I've been using this for a steam infusion line (250F) and it has held up for a couple of mashes, though it will need to be replaced soon with something better.

Not sure what tubing you're using, but it doesn't sound like it has a very good temp rating.  Some of the stuff I see from Micromatic and elsewhere is rated to 212F and folks use it in their recirc systems.

I just read somewhere that if you start your run-off too quickly, it could create a vacuum and compact the grain bed. Sounds like using smaller diamater tubing is the opposite of that.

Ok, that makes sense (I think. ;-). 

However, it seems that a better manifold design would benefit both batch and fly sparging alike.  Right?

Hi, thanks for the reply.

I understand the principal of channeling and good manifold design for maximal efficiency, but why would batch sparging yield higher efficiency than fly sparging using the same "poor" manifold design?  Wouldn't I get the same channeling no matter which way I sparged? 


I have a straight braided line as a manifold in my mash tun and usually batch sparge. I recently used this setup and did a fly sparge and got horrible efficiency. Is it because of my manifold?  I would think fly would give better results then batch on a given tun design, but maybe that's not the case?  Maybe I'm just barking up the wrong tree?

All Grain Brewing / Re: First stuck mash: batch sparge
« on: January 06, 2010, 10:26:43 PM »

One thing I don't like about the braided toilet supply lines it that they use a really fine mesh. The stainless screens (like the bazooka) are a lot courser as are most false bottoms. Perhaps this contributes to getting stuck (I've had one out of my last 6 get stuck, but I just dumped all my batch water in after draining the first runnings.)

Another thing to consider is that those braided lines are soft and may compress under a lot of grain. I use an inverted, stripped down vegetable steamer as a pseudo false bottom. It sits over top the braid to keep that from happening. I recently did a barley wine and sparged 14 gallons for two beers from 27# of grain without a problem.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: dry hop time and taste?
« on: January 06, 2010, 03:58:39 AM »
I tried Hallertau once...and that's all it took.

Huh, I was thinking of trying a recipe form Caglione's "Extreme Brewing" for an Imperial Pilsner that dry hops with Hallertau.  Sounded good to me.... 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: steam beers
« on: January 06, 2010, 03:41:42 AM »
Check out WLP810 San Francisco Lager Yeast.  Plenty of fruity esters at 62F. Do you like bananas?

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