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Messages - nateo

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Ingredients / Re: Is Flaked Barley Worthwhile when Using Oatmeal?
« on: March 31, 2012, 12:34:29 PM »
I wouldn't worry about it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast advice for a Belgian Blond (18A)
« on: March 31, 2012, 09:56:14 AM »
1762 is the Rochefort yeast.  Rochefort makes dark strongs, so why would it be crazy?

I don't really trust my palate, and I worry about giving bad advice. It's just nice to see other people arrive at the same conclusion.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast advice for a Belgian Blond (18A)
« on: March 31, 2012, 05:54:55 AM »
Sean posted this link on another thread:

I'm glad to see I'm not crazy to enjoy 1762 in my dark strongs. I always felt that 3787 gave a pretty strong clove character, though, so maybe I am crazy.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast advice for a Belgian Blond (18A)
« on: March 30, 2012, 06:27:39 PM »
My favorite Belgian yeast is 3787, hands down. I actually prefer it in lower-gravity Belgians, and go with 1762 for bigger Belgians. I've made just about every Belgian style with every Belgian yeast, and those are those are the two I keep coming back to. But I've never met a Belgian yeast I didn't like. Any of them will be great.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Should I sour a 1.102 gravity beer?
« on: March 30, 2012, 06:23:23 PM »
Do it! You could always split it in half and sour only one portion, then compare the two.

We put out whatever stuff we have that needs to go but can't go in the normal trash pickup up on the curb and then we sit outside and watch all the beat up cars and rusty trucks with trailers troll through the neighborhood and pick through the stuff. 

That sounds like every trash day in downtown Denver.

People like to dump their appliances, tires, and mattresses on my land. One time someone dumped a fridge here, and it still worked! I was pretty excited about that. It's holding my yeast and hops now, and bottles I'm cold conditioning.

Equipment and Software / Re: How to use a pH meter
« on: March 30, 2012, 07:48:34 AM »
Unless you contaminated the portion that you removed and returned, e.g. with rinse water from rinsing the pH probe off.

That's what I'm afraid happened. My tap water is really alkaline, so maybe if half a ml of rinse water contaminated it each time I calibrated it, after a long time that could skew the samples. When my new buffers show up I'll compare the results.

Equipment and Software / Re: How to use a pH meter
« on: March 29, 2012, 12:28:35 PM »
I've been getting some odd readings on my Hanna HI 98107 (the 2-point calibration one). I read the label on my buffer solutions, and it said not to pour the used solution back into the bottle. D'oh! I've been doing that for the past year or so.

I've ordered some new buffers, but I wonder which direction the old solution would push the pH, up or down? 

Probably not a good choice for oak, since the outside of those barrels saw cool slightly humid conditions for quite some time.

One of the less crazy old-timers at HomeBrewTalk swears by them, so I thought I'd try them. I'll probably toast them in the oven for a few hours to take care of any hitchhikers before I use them again. Or maybe I'll just use them for smoking meat, like they're made for.

The oak chips I'm using are the Jack Daniels barrels shredded up for smoking chips, like this:

I don't usually sanitize my oak chips, but I did briefly (60-90 sec) boil these chips before adding them. So I'm guessing whatever it was could live inside the oak itself, and not just on the surface.

I tasted it when I transferred, and it tasted pretty good. I think I'll ride it out for now, and try sulfite if it's getting too nasty for me. I was planning on carbing with wine yeast anyway, so I'll get a sulfur-tolerant one just to be safe.

I didn't take any pictures because I had a boil going and didn't have time to go find my camera. I racked from under it. The tartness tasted more lactic than acetic, but maybe that's just wishful thinking. If whatever it is forms again in the carboy I'll post a pic then.

I found this chart on Raj Apte's page:

Beer is 8.5% ABV and about 30 IBUs. I thought Lacto was inhibited by IBUs that high, but maybe some strains aren't? The ABV would rule out enterobacteria, right, so I probably won't get sick from it? Could be acetobacter. I started the fermentation in two vessels, then combined when I oaked the first time. I may have gotten some O2 in there accidentally. I'm hoping it's pedio or brett though, those would probably taste pretty good.

If it is some kinda bug I don't want, is there any reason I shouldn't use metabisulfite?

we are kind of a bunch of hippy rednecks.

I wonder what a hippy redneck is. I'm picturing someone flying the Cascadia flag with their Confederate flag at their self-sufficient compound in the woods. I guess that makes sense, now that I think about it. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast for a barleywine?
« on: March 28, 2012, 12:28:26 PM »
Fracker: Have you seen Fred's website? It's the best resource for brewing big beers I've found. My big beers sucked before I found it.

General Homebrew Discussion / Unexpected pellicle? I hope I'm wrong
« on: March 28, 2012, 10:19:23 AM »
I added oak to a Belgian Brut a few weeks ago. When I added the oak, fermentation was definitely over, and it was still and clear. I go to rack it off today, and it had a splotchy, sticky, slimy white film on the top. It sure looks like a pellicle, but maybe it's not? I don't know what else it would be.

I tasted the white film, and it didn't taste like much, just kind of chalky and kind of tart. Do I have a Brett infection? It doesn't look like my Berliner Weisses do, so I don't think it's Lacto.

Would adding more oak (and probably whatever bug it is) make it finish faster?

Gravity is 1.010 right now. If it's Brett, how much lower should the gravity drop? I'm planning on bottling in champagne bottles, so I'm not super worried about bottle bombs, but I was really hoping to bottle it before May.

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