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Messages - nateo

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Another water chemistry question.... Sorry
« on: August 31, 2011, 10:05:30 AM »
I believe alkalinity is measured as mg/L of CaCO3 by convention, unless it says otherwise. Converting that to ppm is a different issue, but in most cases mg/L is close enough to ppm to not really matter.

Going Pro / Re: Thinking of your recipe, buying hops.
« on: August 31, 2011, 07:02:03 AM »

The current law in WI does not allow me to distribute your beer. If I could I would LOVE to.

Fruit extract vs real fruit. I was just offered 200 lb of Black Current for fruit beer. Price for 1lb was $4.50.
So compare extract price and real fruit price.


In any case, black currant beer sounds pretty good

Equipment and Software / Re: Changing Propane Tanks mid-boil
« on: August 30, 2011, 03:21:05 PM »
Yeah, you'll want to close the air vent. I have the same burner and when the flame goes out, I have to mess with the air intake to get it to light again.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Maximum OG for yeast viability
« on: August 30, 2011, 03:13:41 PM »
If you have time to listen to the Shea Comfort interview on the brewing network, you should. A lot of brewers treat fermentation as a "set and forget" thing, where you pitch x amount of yeast, then you wait. To get the best fermentation in difficult environments, there are some techniques you can use to help your yeast out.

One thing that homebrewers don't do much of but pro brewers do a lot is rousing. Some rouse (with CO2) continuously until fermentation is done. Shea Comfort is a big wine-industry guy, but homebrews as well. He is a big advocate of constant rousing until you hit your target FG. It will ferment faster, and hotter, so temperature control becomes more important when going that route. But he's convinced it gives you better performance.

Shea rouses every batch he makes, but you'll really see the benefits on really big beers. With rousing and gradual feeding of sugar, you should be able to get away with just one initial yeast pitch on a really big beer.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pseudo schwarzbier, 1007 or 2565?
« on: August 30, 2011, 09:19:55 AM »
Actually, BdG is French, not Belgian.  It's usually made with a neutral ale or lager yeast.

Interesting. I had to look it up because I always thought it was a Walloon thing. According to the Wikipedia, bier de garde is from Nord-Pas-de-Calais, just on the other side of the border from Wallonia.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Maximum OG for yeast viability
« on: August 30, 2011, 07:17:19 AM »
IIRC from "the literature" 1.120 is the threshold above which osmotic pressure becomes a real concern.

I think the term you're looking for is "vitality." Viability is a go/no-go thing, either the yeast is alive or dead. Vitality is more a measure of the health of the yeast. For example, you could have 100b "viable" cells that are sickly, and you could have 50b cells that are healthy. The 50b healthy cells will have better fermentation performance than the 100b sickly cells.

It's like sending one million grandmas into battle vs ten thousand young, healthy soldiers. Who do you think will win the day?

I've gotten S-04 up to 13% ABV, so the alcohol tolerance really depends on the vitality of the yeast, how you handle it, pitching rates, etc. But under the right conditions, you can get up into the 15-16% range like Avery does.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pseudo schwarzbier, 1007 or 2565?
« on: August 29, 2011, 06:45:36 PM »
Denny - Thanks for the recipe

Pawtucket - I read on the Wyeast website that it could be used for a biere de garde. I always thought of that a Belgian thing. Interesting.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pseudo schwarzbier, 1007 or 2565?
« on: August 29, 2011, 03:00:57 PM »
Oops, looking at mr malty, I'm gonna need a bunch of yeast for what I planning on doing, so I might as well use a yeast cake. Does anyone have a recipe for a good, (relatively) quick recipe I could use 1007 for? I was thinking an alt, but maybe something else?

Yeast and Fermentation / Pseudo schwarzbier, 1007 or 2565?
« on: August 29, 2011, 11:59:42 AM »
Which yeast should I use for a pseudo-lager Schwarzbier? I have 2565 and 1007 on hand.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Temperature at bottling
« on: August 28, 2011, 09:42:26 AM »
Thanks for all the responses. I didn't think about the max temp the beer was at. I have a batch of Koelsch that carb'd a little low. I fermented at 58 *F then cold crashed to 40 *F, and used 40 *F as the temp at bottling for priming sugar addition.

I think if I had used 58 instead of 40 it would've carb'd up to where I wanted it.

It foamed up more than usual when I was racking and bottling, so I thought they may have been the issue. I usually rack and bottle with the beer at ambient temp ~70-75 or so. This was the first time I bottled a beer cold.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Temperature at bottling
« on: August 27, 2011, 02:35:12 PM »
It's not carbonated. Let's say I'm targeting 2.5 vol for 20L of beer. If the beer is at 40 *F there should 1.5 volumes of residual CO2 left in suspension from fermentation. So I need to add enough sugar to generate 1 vol of carbonation, which would be 83.6g of dextrose.

If that same beer were 80* F, there would be 0.7 volumes of residual carbonation, so I'd need to add enough sugar for 1.8 volumes of carbonation, which would be 142g of dextrose. So at 40 *F there is twice as much residual CO2 as there would be if the beer were 80 *F at bottling, and it requires half as much priming sugar, according to the calculator.

When I transfer from the carboy into the bottling bucket, I must lose "some" amount of CO2, and I must lose "some" amount of CO2 when it foams up in the bottles, and I must lose "some" amount of CO2 as the cold beer in the bottling bucket warms up and off-gasses. I don't know how much the "some" that I'm losing is, or if it's enough to significantly change the amount of priming sugar I need to add to get my desired carbonation level.

If I lost half of the residual CO2 during racking/bottling, at 80 *F that would be 0.35 vol and at 40 *F that would mean 0.7 vol. If I'm targeting 2.5 volumes, that could seriously throw off the carb level. If I only lose a quarter, that wouldn't be as bad, but it would still fall pretty short of my target. But maybe I only lose 1/20th of the carb level and it's not an issue at all. That's what I'm trying to figure out.

Kegging and Bottling / Temperature at bottling
« on: August 27, 2011, 12:07:08 PM »
Hey folks,
Sorry if this has been covered before. I searched and couldn't find an answer. Does it matter if I rack and bottle a beer at cold-crashing temperature, or should I warm up the beer first to rack and bottle.

I ask because it seemed like it was losing a fair amount of CO2 transferring and bottling while cold. Also, as the beer warmed up as I was bottling it, I'm guessing it would've off-gassed a little bit too.

Does this matter? Would I lose enough residual CO2 to worry about? Or am I thinking too hard about this?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 10 easy steps to being a better brewer
« on: August 27, 2011, 11:51:36 AM »
All beer drinking scheduled time limits do not apply to fishing trips and NHCs.  It says so right in the rules.

I work in a tackle store next to a fishing area, and when I first started I was surprised how many people start drinking at 6am. I tend to see a lot more wake-and-bake than drinking, though.

I usually have a beer or two while brewing, regardless of the time I brew, but when you own/run a business, you're basically always on the clock. If I never drank when I have a few spare hours at random times, I'd never be able to drink.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Partigyle questions, should I cap?
« on: August 25, 2011, 05:13:49 PM »
Thanks Denny and bluesman! I have a pH meter and am pretty anal about checking my runoff pH.

I have another question that came up after I punched everything into Beersmith. I was basing my recipe on Tom O's partigyle calculator, and Kai's partigyle mash thickness table. If you don't have it in front of you, it assumes a 60/40 split of the grains' gravity and color contribution and 3.5L/kg to hit my target first running gravity and volume. The issue is, my mash tun is not nearly big enough to hold all the grain and water at the required thickness.

Should I try to figure out all the gravities from a first, second and third runnings, or should I just do it on-the-fly on brewday? On my sub-recipes for the individual beers I have pre-boil gravities and volumes. Would I be able to just measure my volume and gravity as I mix the 3 runnings to get to where I want to be?

The confusing thing to me is that my "master" recipe with all the grain as one recipe gives me a pre-boil volume of 52L, but each sub-recipe gives me a pre-boil volume of 31L, so I would actually need 11L more than Beersmith tells me. Is this something to do with the way Beersmith calculates boil-off?

I'm not super particular about hitting my numbers exactly, but to be off by 11L seems like a lot.

EDIT: I think I figured out the volume issue. I found a set volume for "lost to trub and chiller" of 3.79, so it was double counting that volume, and also it had a set boil-off volume. When I fixed both of those the numbers matched up.

All Grain Brewing / Partigyle questions, should I cap?
« on: August 25, 2011, 04:09:11 PM »
I've been reading about partigyle brewing, and I intend to do an imperial/regular pseudo-schwarzbier with that method. I've read that some people add different grains at sparging to darken or otherwise change the flavor of the second runnings.

I was planning on making 3 recipes on Beersmith, one with the total grain bill (to figure out mash temps and such), and one assuming 60% of the grist will go towards the big beer, and one assuming 40% goes towards the small beer. Will Beersmith accurately predict the color if I do it this way?

If the color and gravity on the small beer are where I want it to be, should I add grains? I gathered from my reading that the small beer will be lacking, which is why people add additional grains and the sparge. Can someone with some experience doing this verify that?

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