Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - nateo

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 145
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Zymurgy Top-Ranked Beers
« on: June 19, 2013, 09:50:27 AM »
I'd be really interested in seeing a regional version of this. IMO Urban Chestnut makes some of the best beers I've ever had, but there's no way they'd ever end up on that list.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Zymurgy Top-Ranked Beers
« on: June 19, 2013, 07:19:45 AM »
All of the lists look the same to me, every year. I wonder what it will take to shake it up.

The Pub / Re: OnTap Liquid Beer Enchancer - WTF?
« on: June 14, 2013, 09:45:15 AM »
My thoughts for making something like this:

1. Make a strong wort with specialty grains
2. Boil to concentrate somewhat
3. Ferment with a flavorful yeast
4. Call it "homebrew" and be done with it


The Pub / Re: OnTap Liquid Beer Enchancer - WTF?
« on: June 14, 2013, 08:43:27 AM »
Or if you want acetaldehyde in your beer, just buy cheaper beer. I've heard the Big Flats from Walgreen is pretty appley.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Conditioning Unmalted Wheat Berries
« on: June 14, 2013, 08:42:33 AM »
Definitely no problem using a corona mill but it is a workout for sure.

If you boil them first, they go through like buddah.

Going Pro / Re: Filled Keg storage
« on: June 10, 2013, 01:00:38 PM »
BTW - it has got to be more expensive to centrifuge out the yeast, add bottling yeast and priming sugar/cap than it is to just counter pressure fill.

Yeah, outfits as big and successful as Boulevard probably don't spend money on stuff like that unless it's worth it.

The Pub / Re: OnTap Liquid Beer Enchancer - WTF?
« on: June 07, 2013, 08:04:28 PM »
The funny thing is, a 6er of Boulevard is cheaper, for me, than a 6er of Budweiser in bottles. Schlafly, too, can be bought for <$1/bottle, and the macro brands cost around $7-8 per 6er. The cases of cans dip a bit under $1/beer, but "craft" beer isn't all that much more expensive anymore.

Ingredients / Re: Candi sugar
« on: June 07, 2013, 04:33:50 PM »
I like to add once fermentation is well under way. Incremental feedings keep the osmotic pressure down, and in my experience increase attenuation. For a <1.090 OG or so beer, it doesn't really matter (boil/post-boil addition), but once I get into the triple-digits I always add the sugar later.

Going Pro / Re: Filled Keg storage
« on: June 07, 2013, 07:55:51 AM »
For whatever reason, consumers want consistency. Since you're still a newbie in the pro world, I suspect your sanitation isn't as good as Dogfish Head's.

Like Kyle and Anthony said, even if your kegs aren't turning sour, spoilage bugs, oxidation can change the taste of your beer. From a QC perspective, storing kegs warm sounds like a good way to shoot yourself in the foot before you get off the ground.

The Pub / A contest for people who like bikes and beer
« on: June 05, 2013, 10:52:31 AM »

Other Fermentables / Re: Copper does remove sulfur!
« on: June 02, 2013, 03:32:12 PM »
If you're adding copper post-ferment, I'd be very careful. It's a heavy metal, so it's not exactly "good for you." I read something Martin wrote about the yeast grabbing up excess copper in the wort. If you're adding it post-ferment, though, I'm not sure if the yeast will bind with it, or if you'll end up drinking it.

Here's an x-post from the probrewer forum, but I thought some here might find this helpful:

Sulfur will bind with oxidation byproducts as well. I read a study that found lagers with higher sulfur levels were more stable than those with low sulfur.

Post-ferment sulfur is probably mercaptans, and they can be removed with copper. Try treating a small amount with copper (put a penny in a glass). If it's mercaptans, the smell will disappear immediately. If not, you've got sulfides, and if so, good luck.

To avoid producing excess H2S (which later form mercaptans, then sulfides/disulfides) in the first place, ferment at a lower temperature, provide necessary YAN, select a low-sulfur yeast strain.

Running beer through a copper tube or something is kind of a WAG approach to sulfur removal. You don't really know how much copper you're adding when you do that. Wine guys use titration bench tests with copper sulfate solutions to determine the exact amount they need to add. The copper sulfide you create after the sulfate reacts with the mercaptans will settle out over time, and you should remove it if you can. So fine, rack, filter or all the above.

For dealing with sulfides, well, you should probably just give up. There is a hail-mary approach, though: in the absence of oxygen sulfides will revert back to mercaptans. So you can use asorbic acid or similar antioxidant to try to knock out the O2, then treat with copper. But, that's not a sure or fast way to do it.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Conditioning Unmalted Wheat Berries
« on: June 02, 2013, 03:17:51 PM »
I haven't tried the technique with my roller mill. I found a Corona mill on amazon for $20 shipped, and boy does that thing tear the wheat berries up. If you want to use a lot of raw wheat, that's what I'd suggest. For occasional usage, I'd probably just get flaked wheat. I put raw wheat in maybe half the beers I make, so it made sense to invest in the mill.

I have tried wetting barley malt and running it through the mill. That worked OK on one pass, but I tried to run it through a second time and it got all gummed to hell.

My LHBS sells flaked wheat for $1.25/lb, the Mennonite store near me sells it for about $0.50/lbs. So after ~27lbs ($20/$0.75) of raw wheat, it paid for itself. YMMV. It's also great for grinding up corn and rice for lagers.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Conditioning Unmalted Wheat Berries
« on: June 01, 2013, 08:39:59 PM »
Just getting them moist won't help much. The pericarp is really tough. For a 2-roller mill, I'd boil them, let them dry or towel them off, then run them through the mill. As long as you get rid of excess water, you should be fine.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First beer taste
« on: May 31, 2013, 11:26:54 AM »
Glad to hear the reports of Nelson + Saison working out so well. I'm planning on brewing a 3711 + Nelson + white wine must saison later this summer.

That was my plan with my latest super saison, although I ended up not adding the white wine must. I used a mix of BA-11 (white wine yeast) and Belle Saison to give it a vinous character.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German lager flavor
« on: May 31, 2013, 06:44:57 AM »
The Germans I talk to tell me they keep all the good beer for themselves. The really good brewers don't export. I don't know if it's true, or not, but they also decry the expansion of macro-lager in Germany. Under the current German beer laws, lager brewers can use adjuncts when brewing export versions. So big brands like Krombacher or Bitburger are probably closer to Budweiser than most people think.   

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 145