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Messages - travjohn92

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61
Yeast and Fermentation / Stuck and Stalled Fermentation-
« on: March 28, 2011, 12:32:02 PM »
I'll try to make this as short and sweet as possible.

Been out of the homebrewing scene for about 8 years and just recently got back into.  The first batch I attempted (since being back) was an Imperial Porter, but not knowing I was making an Imperial Porter.  I basically took the majority of any "older" ingredients I had and was going to make a batch.  Not doing any research on high gravity beers and the types of yeast I should use I pitched a dry yeast at 70 degrees and with an OG of 1.090.  Needless to say everything stalled out at 1.042 and never got it going again after another 30-45 days.  I went ahead and primed it, bottled a six pack, and kegged the rest. 

It has now been aging for for 3 months and I periodically (about once a month) taste a bottle just to see if there is any improvement.  There isn't.  I am just about to the point of dumping the keg because it sucks so bad and doesn't even remotely have a beer taste (way to sweet)

...Finally, here is my question.  Can I take what is primed and kegged, put it back into a fermentation vessel  and add a more powerful liquid yeast strain to try and eat up some of the sugars? 

I'm sure this may result in some "off" flavors,  but if it makes it tolerable and drinkable, it would be better than dumping it.

Any assistance would be wonderful.  My feelings will not be hurt if you tell me to dump it because there is no hope.

62
So before I pitch my yeast I should probably take a least one more gravity reading after a good aeration, correct?  Right now I have a starter going and waiting until full Krausen before pitching

63
Not exactly sure what you mean..  It was a concentrated boil of 2 gallons then added water to make it 5.5 gallons.

64
I brewed an over the top brown ale and input my ingredients into Beersmith.  IT gave me an estimated OG of 1.070 but when I took my reading when it had cooled down to 68 degrees it was 1.083.  What would cause such a large variance?

Here is the ingredient list:
.75 lb Chocolate Malt Grains
.5 LB Caramel Crystal Malt Grains
.06 LB Roasted Barley Grains
1 lb Amber DME
1 lb Light DME
4 lb Unhopped Light LME
3.3 lbs Hopped Light LME
1 lb Dark Brown Sugar
.75 lb CLover Honey
1 oz Nugget Hop Pellets
2 oz Williamette Hop Pellets
1 oz Fuggles Hop Pellets

Any input would be great.  Thanks!

65
So you can't fully determine what your IBU's are until you take your OG reading?  You can target the IBU's based on your target OG, correct?

66
Is there an easy way to calculate the bittering unit when dumping your hops into your wort?  I have tried to find some easy calculation, but it doesn't seem to make a whole lot of sense.  I have been using hop pellets.

For example:  I recently brewed a an IPA from a kit which called for 1 oz Pilgrim Hop Pellets, 11 alpha (full boil) and 1 oz First Gold Hop Pellets 7.3 alpha, during the final minute.  I added an additional 2 oz of Cascade Hop pellets at approximately 1/4 oz every 7 minutes.

Based on that can someone attempt to tell me the bittering units and how they came up with that calculation?  I started brewing about 10 years ago, but took an 8 year hiatus and this was my second batch since returning.

Many Thanks!






67
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Problems with my fermentation
« on: January 20, 2011, 06:01:40 PM »
Both. To get into a safe range before bottling and to let it "mature" once that's done. If you expect the beer to have ended up in the 1.016ish range then you shouldn't bottle it before it get there or close. Your beer could overcarbonate and the bottles might explode. Once the gravity is near where you expected and is remaining stable for three or four days then bottle.

Higher gravity beers also tend to benefit from extended conditioning times.



Just took a hydrometer reading to see if any fermentation has been happening since my transfer to secondary fermentation

.... and the survey says...... nothing.  It is still reading 1.028 which is what is was upon transfer.  Just sit and wait or are there any other suggestions?

68
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Problems with my fermentation
« on: January 20, 2011, 11:50:20 AM »
Based on you recipe it should finish on it's own, but much slower than it would have. Leave it alone for a while. Adding yeast will just complicate things.

The oak chips... Interesting. This beer is going to need to sit for several months anyway in the bottle or keg.


You say it will need to sit longer.  Is this because of the yeast issues or because of the original gravity level?  I normally let it age anywhere from 30-60 days before breaking into any of them.  My goal is to be drinking it by my birthday which is April 1.  What do you think?

... the wood chips were actually in the kit.  I simply added the additional cascade hops and the extra light malt.

69
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Problems with my fermentation
« on: January 20, 2011, 06:24:56 AM »
How much longer should I wait?  Do I need to pitch more yeast?  If nothing happens within the next week or so
 do I go ahead and keg it or ditch it?



Noooooh..... Don't ditch it!. Let it sit for a week or a couple weeks in a dark cool place. Then check the gravity. If it hasn't dropped then it's probably done. However, it should drop since there's still yeast in the beer. How about more info like a recipe?

RDWHAHB it's a learning experience. :D Start another and let this one sit and finish on it's own. When it reaches FG Bottle or keg it.

Here is my recipe:
6.6 lbs Amber Malt
3.3 Pilsner Light malt
1lb Crystal Grain
1 oz Pilgrim Hop Pellets :  Full Boil 60 minutes
2 oz Cascade Hop Pellets: 1/4 oz every 7-8 minutes
1 oz First Gold Hop Pellets:  Final Minute
1/2 oz Toasted Oak Chips once poured into fermenter


70
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Problems with my fermentation
« on: January 19, 2011, 09:33:38 PM »
How much longer should I wait?  Do I need to pitch more yeast?  If nothing happens within the next week or so
 do I go ahead and keg it or ditch it?


71
Yeast and Fermentation / Problems with my fermentation
« on: January 19, 2011, 09:12:46 PM »
Alright, I started home brewing 10 years ago, but took a 7 year hiatus and started brewing again about 2 months ago.

I am currently have a batch of IPA which had an original gravity of 1.070. I pitched my California ale liquid yeast from white labs at the appropriate temperature 70-75 degrees and had great fermentation during my primary stage. When I transferred to my secondary fermentation tank, after 8 days (glass carboy- gravity had dropped to 1.028) all my fermentation appeared to stop. It has been 4 days now and I have little to no clearing and I have not noticed my airlock moving at all.

What do I need to do?

I have a fear that it will be too malty even though I did do a continual hop adding during my 60-75 minute boil.

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