Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - DW

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
1
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astringency expected?
« on: December 22, 2013, 07:45:50 PM »
Rocket fuel.  You'll likely want to age this beer for a good year or more.

Does age actually reduce fusel alcohols?

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astringency expected?
« on: December 22, 2013, 05:36:37 PM »
It shouldn't affect astringency, but it could increase the ester production and possibly fusel alcohol production.

Do you think my beer will taste bad due to fermentation at that higher temp?

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astringency expected?
« on: December 22, 2013, 05:13:25 PM »
It shouldn't affect astringency, but it could increase the ester production and possibly fusel alcohol production.

Thought astringency was caused by fusel alcohols.  If not, what do fusel alcohols taste like?


No, astringency is often caused by not maintaining proper pH during the mash and sparge phase.  Fusel alcohols are formed during an excessively warm fermentation, and have a harsh, hot, solventy flavor (and can give you a hell of a headache the next day). A high OG beer like a RIS has tons of fermentable sugar, so fermentation temps can spike several degrees higher than ambient during high krausen.

10+ degrees higher?  Is it possible that my sticky temperature gauge is wrong?
They're supposed to be accurate to within a couple degrees F.  Did you cool the wort to 63F as well?

Yeah, cooled down to about 63.  Does anyone use that metal hollow probe that you can put directly into the fermentation vessel for direct temperature readings?

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astringency expected?
« on: December 22, 2013, 04:34:03 PM »
It shouldn't affect astringency, but it could increase the ester production and possibly fusel alcohol production.

Thought astringency was caused by fusel alcohols.  If not, what do fusel alcohols taste like?

No, astringency is often caused by not maintaining proper pH during the mash and sparge phase.  Fusel alcohols are formed during an excessively warm fermentation, and have a harsh, hot, solventy flavor (and can give you a hell of a headache the next day). A high OG beer like a RIS has tons of fermentable sugar, so fermentation temps can spike several degrees higher than ambient during high krausen.

10+ degrees higher?  Is it possible that my sticky temperature gauge is wrong?

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astringency expected?
« on: December 22, 2013, 04:21:06 PM »
I guess another question I have is, is it common to get 10+ degree difference between the fermentation vessel and the outside temp during a vigorous fermentation?

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Astringency expected?
« on: December 22, 2013, 04:02:13 PM »
It shouldn't affect astringency, but it could increase the ester production and possibly fusel alcohol production.

Thought astringency was caused by fusel alcohols.  If not, what do fusel alcohols taste like?

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Astringency expected?
« on: December 22, 2013, 02:20:10 PM »
Did a Russian Imperial Stout a week ago.  Fermented well.  I had the fridge set at around 63.  I noticed that the stick on temperature gauge on the side of my fermenter read 77!  Could it really have been 10+degrees warmer in the fermentation chamber than the ambient temperature?  If so, will the beer taste astringent?  I checked a sample for FG today, and it didn't' taste notably astringent.  Total abv=9.6%

8
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Steeping dark malts
« on: December 15, 2013, 01:25:12 PM »
I'm brewing Russian Imperial Stout tomorrow.  I've got 4 lbs of specially grains to steep before the boil.  Do you think I would get more dark roasted flavor/color by cold steeping all night and then heating up to 155 tomorrow and holding for 30 minutes, or would that be too much and lead to tannin extraction?  I did not buy extra grain to cold steep only. 

9
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Cold steeping specialty grains
« on: December 06, 2013, 08:38:32 PM »
I find that I get less color from cold steeping even when I add the malt to the sparge water.  I haven't done enough to cold steeping to figure out how much extra grain I should use to compensate.  I may have cold steeped with whole malts rather than ground malt so my experience may simply reflect the grind.

What do other people think?

The info I linked says to use at least 2x as much grain.  And you definitely need to crush the grain.

Interesting.  Is it worth buying the extra grain?

10
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Poor efficiency/very soft water
« on: December 06, 2013, 08:35:33 PM »
This was a full boil.  If you have access to Brewing Classic Styles, it's the Robust Porter recipe.  I think I mentioned the recipe in earlier posts.  I was not precise in measuring the volumes, and my 30% efficiency could be off by +-5%.  Something that I learned from this thread was that I'm not really mashing but steeping.  I called it mashing, because I thought I was actually getting fermentable sugars from the steep, but you guys have taught that I'm really just getting flavor/color. 

11
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Cold steeping specialty grains
« on: December 05, 2013, 07:14:33 PM »
I have been doing this for many years. Add it all to the sparge on brew say. Or add the liquid to the boil.

There is a discussion in Brewing Better Beer about this technique.

No need to heat the steeped grains that soaked overnight before putting in boil?

12
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Cold steeping specialty grains
« on: December 05, 2013, 06:02:31 PM »
In Brewing Classic Styles Palmer says you can steep specialty grains overnight in cold water, especially if you have a lot of dark grains.  Has anyone done this?  If you steep them overnight can you skip heating up to 155 degrees and holding for 30 minutes on brew day?

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Thermometers?
« on: December 02, 2013, 01:48:29 PM »
What's the best kind of thermometer to use for measuring mash temps?  I do extract brew mostly, with the occasional all grain in an Igloo cooler.  For my boils/cool downs in the kettle I have the blichman thermometer attached to the kettle, and that works well.  A while back I bought a cheap little electric one that ceased to allow me to calibrate it.  What's the best bang for the buck? 

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Poor efficiency/very soft water
« on: December 02, 2013, 01:43:29 PM »
DW, for the grains you have, the Munich is the only one that needs to be mashed, and it has low Diastatic Power. If you had those all together, the DP would be around 20 or 25, which is under the 35 often stated for conversion.

With the LME, and only a little grain that needs to be mashed, how far off were you?

So the Munich was not grain, it was LME, along with the Light LME.  The only grains I mashed were the Crystal 40, Chocolate, and Black Patent.  My PreBoil gravity was right on, but when I estimated the efficiency of extraction for just the mashed grains, my efficiency came to around 30%.  Even though my volume was 7 gallons pre boil, I went back and mashed those grained again and increased the volume to about 7.5gallons.  One problem I found was that my thermometer was about 20 degrees to low, so I was mashing in the 130 range.  I had held it there about 30minutes before I figured that out, so I raised the temp to the appropriate range and left it about 15 minutes.  I poured the extracted wort into the kettle along with the LME and only later went back and remashed and added up to 7.5gallons.-----------Having said all that, and I am appreciative of everyones' help, I transferred to the secondary today (I had good OG and FG), but found the color to be really more of a brown color than black.  Did I not extract enough of the CHocolate and Black Patent malt?  I know those malts need more alkaline water, and my water is much more suited for light beers. 

[img]Water1.pdf/img]

15
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Poor efficiency/very soft water
« on: November 29, 2013, 10:06:54 PM »
Sorry for the late reply.  I was making the robust porter recipe in "Brewing Classic Styles", which I believe is 8.6lbs LME + 1 lb Munich + 0.5lb Black Patent + 1.0lb Crystal 40 + 0.75lb Chocolate malt.  I have been hitting my gravities pretty well.  I calculated my efficiency from "How to Brew", where I took the Congress Mash expected points and compared that to what I actually got. 

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5