Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - DW

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 8
1
Ingredients / Re: Using your back yard creek
« on: April 20, 2015, 04:56:46 PM »
For now I think I'll just say screw it.  I guess I could walk up the creek as far as I could to see if anything looks suspicous.  Would Ward labs be able to tell me if there were pollutants?  From a practicality standpoint, taking water from my creek makes no sense.  From a novelty standpoint, it seems worthwhile. Kinda like how breweries/distilleries bragg about their own water source.  I could, in essence, makes a faulty boast that my beer was sourced from the crystal NC mountain streams, therefore it must taste delicous, etc. 

2
Ingredients / Re: Using your back yard creek
« on: April 18, 2015, 08:59:05 AM »
+1.  I'd be concerned about pollutant runoff, too.

Would pollutants be analyzed by Ward Labs?

3
Ingredients / Re: Using your back yard creek
« on: April 18, 2015, 08:58:14 AM »
Why do you want to use the water?  What will you gain by doing it?

Simply to say that I brewed water from my back yard creek.  Maybe it's not a worthwhile venture.

4
Ingredients / Using your back yard creek
« on: April 18, 2015, 05:49:31 AM »
I live in the Western NC mountains and have a nice small creek on the backside of my property.  What would it take to use that water for home brewing?  I assume i'd need to send a sample to a lab for analysis?  Plus, I would not be surprised if it had Giardia, etc in it.  Is it worth it to try and filter and make this into brewing water?  Seems kinda unique.

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: getting back into all grain
« on: April 18, 2015, 05:47:12 AM »
So, finally gonna do an all grain batch tomorrow:

Belgian Pale Ale
11.2lb belgian pilsner, 0.75lb caramunich, 0.25lb biscuit--kent goldings hops, ardennes yeast

1.  Took one Wyeast activator and put in 1,400mL of 1.40 wort on stir plate---recipe calls for 2 packets, did I make enough yeast?
2.  at 1.65qt/lb I would use 20.13 (round to 20) quarts = 5 gallons strike water?
3.  I am aiming for a mash temp of 152, so I would heat my water to around 165?  (preheat mash tun with some boiled water for 10minutes?) (how much wort would you expect to run off from the 5gallons?)
4.  adjust temp with boiled/iced water
5.  Per Denny: consider 1-2g of gypsum since I have soft water
6.  Let it sit for 60 minutes at the desired temp (any reason to check to see that all the grain is converted? if so, how do you do that? )
7.  Drain all of the wort out into boil kettle then wash grains with around 4gallons of water at around 165 and collect as much as needed---pray that the gravity is right
8.  I'm planning to use hops that are 6+ months old. They have been sealed and sitting in a freezer at around 34degrees.  Is it ok to use them being that old? They're unopened.  Did not want to pay more if they were still ok. Do I need to use more hops than the recipe calls for?

I really appreciate the help on this forum!  I have a lot of questions here---- :D

6
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian Pale Ale
« on: April 12, 2015, 10:39:28 AM »
Would Ardennes be good?

Yeah, I've made it with Ardennes and liked it alot. 3787 is always good too, as is 1214 if you keep it cool.

What would be the ideal temp with ardennes, and would you keep it there the whole time or let is rise?

7
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian Pale Ale
« on: April 12, 2015, 09:19:55 AM »
Would Ardennes be good?

8
Yeast and Fermentation / Belgian Pale Ale
« on: April 12, 2015, 09:15:57 AM »
Recommendation Yeast for this style?  I was looking for Wyeast Belgian Schelde or White Labs Antwerp ale, but can't find them.  ---

9
All Grain Brewing / Re: getting back into all grain
« on: March 09, 2015, 11:17:03 AM »


1. nope, not much, especially if you add a tsp. or 2 of gypsum.  Your water isn't vastly different than mine and I got award winning results with it.  Like I said, I feel my beers have improved some since I started paying more attention to water, but that doesn't mean there were problems before that.

2. Yep, that's what works for my system.  Yours might vary slightly, but that's a good starting point.  Take careful notes and adjust next time if needed.

3.  For every lb. of DME you add to 5 gal., you add about 9 gravity points (DME= 45 points/lb./gal.)

4.  I wouldn't use lead based solder.  For that matter, a lot of people simply press fit the manifold together so they can take it apart to clean it.  Of course, IMO, the ultimate lautering system is SS braid.

5. de nada
[/quote]

3.  So in the case, to get from 1.035 to 1.04, I'd need 5 gravity points?  So 45/6.5gallons x Xlbs =5points, which is about 0.7lbs?  Is that right?

10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: bock under attenuated
« on: March 09, 2015, 10:25:33 AM »
Might be the yeast's fault.  What yeast did you use?

Yeast Bavarian Lager.  The recipe is the Dopplebock (Mr Maltinator) from "Brewing Classic Styles" .

11
All Grain Brewing / Re: getting back into all grain
« on: March 09, 2015, 10:24:14 AM »
1. 1.65 qt./lb.  Round up to the nearest easily measurable increment

2.  You could do it the easy way and just add a couple tsp. of gypsum.  I did that for years and made award winning beers.  If you want to get detailed, get Bru'nwater, plug in your report and go from there.

3. nope
after adding gypsum, would you check the pH, or just assume it's ok?  You check the pH after adding the water to the grains?

I wouldn't bother checking.  Your pH is not too high to start with and the grain will pull it down.  Do you have a pH meter to check with anyway?  FWIW, I made killer IPAs for over 10 years without ever worrying about pH.  I wouldn't worry about it too much on your case.  The other option is to go all out and use Bru'nwater to calculate your additons and a meter to make sure they're correct.  since I started doing that, my beers are maybe 5% better.  If you;re just gettong back into AG, I'd say you have better things to spend your time worrying about.  Deal with water later.

1.  Do you expect the efficiency to be affected much?  I was just wondering if really soft water would not give the enzymes enough of what they need to convert that mash? 

2.  If you want the mash temperature to be 150, would you heat the strike water 10-15 degrees above that? 

3.  If you collect say, 6.5gallons (intending to make a 5 gallon batch), and the starting gravity is lower than expected, how to correct with DME?  Let's say you expect the OG to be 1.04, and it's 1.035, how much DME would you put in? 

4.  I was gonna sodder my copper manifold together, is the sodder safe to come in contact with the wort?

5.  Y'all are great!  Thanks for the help.

12
All Grain Brewing / Re: getting back into all grain
« on: March 08, 2015, 11:14:29 AM »
1. 1.65 qt./lb.  Round up to the nearest easily measurable increment

2.  You could do it the easy way and just add a couple tsp. of gypsum.  I did that for years and made award winning beers.  If you want to get detailed, get Bru'nwater, plug in your report and go from there.

3. nope
after adding gypsum, would you check the pH, or just assume it's ok?  You check the pH after adding the water to the grains?

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: scaling down batch size
« on: March 08, 2015, 11:12:01 AM »
I assume that goes for the hops too?  I guess the wort concentration would be the same, so halving the hops would work equally well?  This leads to the question then: why are recipes always size specific? why not just say "pounds/gallon?"

14
General Homebrew Discussion / scaling down batch size
« on: March 08, 2015, 11:03:16 AM »
Can you simply halve the ingredients if you want to make a 5gallon batch but the recipe is for a 10gallon batch?

15
All Grain Brewing / getting back into all grain
« on: March 08, 2015, 10:38:13 AM »
I haven't all grain brewed in a while, and i'm looking at getting back into it.  i need some help.  i want to brew the recipe listed as, "Shreddin Red IPA".  I have a 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler as a mash tun with a homemade copper manifold.  i'd be batch sparging. 
Recipe:
For 5 Gallons (18.93 L)
7.0 lb (3.18 kg) two row malt
3.0 lb (1.36 kg) Vienna malt
12.0 oz (340 g) CaraMunich II malt
8.0 oz (226 g) 60° crystal malt
1.5 oz (42 g) dehusked black malt

1. How much water would you add initially for the 45min mash?
2. my water profile is: (what would you add to get proper pH?)
 pH 7.7
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 49
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.08 Cations / Anions, me/L 0.8 / 0.7 ppm
Sodium, Na 13
Potassium, K 1
Calcium, Ca 3
Magnesium, Mg 1
Total Hardness, CaCO3 12
Nitrate, NO3-N < 0.1 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S < 1
Chloride, Cl 7
Carbonate, CO3 < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 29
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 23
[/size]

3. would you add rice hulls to avoid stuck sparge?
Thanks!

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 8