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Messages - DW

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16
Yeast and Fermentation / Belgian Pale Ale
« on: April 12, 2015, 09:15:57 AM »
Recommendation Yeast for this style?  I was looking for Wyeast Belgian Schelde or White Labs Antwerp ale, but can't find them.  ---

17
All Grain Brewing / Re: getting back into all grain
« on: March 09, 2015, 11:17:03 AM »


1. nope, not much, especially if you add a tsp. or 2 of gypsum.  Your water isn't vastly different than mine and I got award winning results with it.  Like I said, I feel my beers have improved some since I started paying more attention to water, but that doesn't mean there were problems before that.

2. Yep, that's what works for my system.  Yours might vary slightly, but that's a good starting point.  Take careful notes and adjust next time if needed.

3.  For every lb. of DME you add to 5 gal., you add about 9 gravity points (DME= 45 points/lb./gal.)

4.  I wouldn't use lead based solder.  For that matter, a lot of people simply press fit the manifold together so they can take it apart to clean it.  Of course, IMO, the ultimate lautering system is SS braid.

5. de nada
[/quote]

3.  So in the case, to get from 1.035 to 1.04, I'd need 5 gravity points?  So 45/6.5gallons x Xlbs =5points, which is about 0.7lbs?  Is that right?

18
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: bock under attenuated
« on: March 09, 2015, 10:25:33 AM »
Might be the yeast's fault.  What yeast did you use?

Yeast Bavarian Lager.  The recipe is the Dopplebock (Mr Maltinator) from "Brewing Classic Styles" .

19
All Grain Brewing / Re: getting back into all grain
« on: March 09, 2015, 10:24:14 AM »
1. 1.65 qt./lb.  Round up to the nearest easily measurable increment

2.  You could do it the easy way and just add a couple tsp. of gypsum.  I did that for years and made award winning beers.  If you want to get detailed, get Bru'nwater, plug in your report and go from there.

3. nope
after adding gypsum, would you check the pH, or just assume it's ok?  You check the pH after adding the water to the grains?

I wouldn't bother checking.  Your pH is not too high to start with and the grain will pull it down.  Do you have a pH meter to check with anyway?  FWIW, I made killer IPAs for over 10 years without ever worrying about pH.  I wouldn't worry about it too much on your case.  The other option is to go all out and use Bru'nwater to calculate your additons and a meter to make sure they're correct.  since I started doing that, my beers are maybe 5% better.  If you;re just gettong back into AG, I'd say you have better things to spend your time worrying about.  Deal with water later.

1.  Do you expect the efficiency to be affected much?  I was just wondering if really soft water would not give the enzymes enough of what they need to convert that mash? 

2.  If you want the mash temperature to be 150, would you heat the strike water 10-15 degrees above that? 

3.  If you collect say, 6.5gallons (intending to make a 5 gallon batch), and the starting gravity is lower than expected, how to correct with DME?  Let's say you expect the OG to be 1.04, and it's 1.035, how much DME would you put in? 

4.  I was gonna sodder my copper manifold together, is the sodder safe to come in contact with the wort?

5.  Y'all are great!  Thanks for the help.

20
All Grain Brewing / Re: getting back into all grain
« on: March 08, 2015, 11:14:29 AM »
1. 1.65 qt./lb.  Round up to the nearest easily measurable increment

2.  You could do it the easy way and just add a couple tsp. of gypsum.  I did that for years and made award winning beers.  If you want to get detailed, get Bru'nwater, plug in your report and go from there.

3. nope
after adding gypsum, would you check the pH, or just assume it's ok?  You check the pH after adding the water to the grains?

21
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: scaling down batch size
« on: March 08, 2015, 11:12:01 AM »
I assume that goes for the hops too?  I guess the wort concentration would be the same, so halving the hops would work equally well?  This leads to the question then: why are recipes always size specific? why not just say "pounds/gallon?"

22
General Homebrew Discussion / scaling down batch size
« on: March 08, 2015, 11:03:16 AM »
Can you simply halve the ingredients if you want to make a 5gallon batch but the recipe is for a 10gallon batch?

23
All Grain Brewing / getting back into all grain
« on: March 08, 2015, 10:38:13 AM »
I haven't all grain brewed in a while, and i'm looking at getting back into it.  i need some help.  i want to brew the recipe listed as, "Shreddin Red IPA".  I have a 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler as a mash tun with a homemade copper manifold.  i'd be batch sparging. 
Recipe:
For 5 Gallons (18.93 L)
7.0 lb (3.18 kg) two row malt
3.0 lb (1.36 kg) Vienna malt
12.0 oz (340 g) CaraMunich II malt
8.0 oz (226 g) 60° crystal malt
1.5 oz (42 g) dehusked black malt

1. How much water would you add initially for the 45min mash?
2. my water profile is: (what would you add to get proper pH?)
 pH 7.7
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 49
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.08 Cations / Anions, me/L 0.8 / 0.7 ppm
Sodium, Na 13
Potassium, K 1
Calcium, Ca 3
Magnesium, Mg 1
Total Hardness, CaCO3 12
Nitrate, NO3-N < 0.1 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S < 1
Chloride, Cl 7
Carbonate, CO3 < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 29
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 23
[/size]

3. would you add rice hulls to avoid stuck sparge?
Thanks!

24
Yeast and Fermentation / bock under attenuated
« on: March 08, 2015, 10:27:02 AM »
I know this question has been asked a thousand times, but my 1.085 bock was supposed to go to 1.02, and is stuck at 1.03.  been on the yeast for about a month.  i had turned the temp up to 57.  is there any hope?  i did use extract with 1 pound pilsner malt/specialty grains......... :'( :'(

25
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Clay fermentation vessels
« on: January 19, 2015, 07:04:44 PM »
With the high porosity wouldn't there be a high chance of contamination?

26
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Is boiling necessary?
« on: January 19, 2015, 07:01:54 PM »
+1 providing you gave it ample time to sanitize.  You should try to use that saved yeast within a couple days or so.  If not, then a starter should be utilized.

How big of a starter should be made?  Why does a starter need to be made?  do the yeast hibernate and just need to be reactivated, or do I need to produce more cells? 

27
Yeast and Fermentation / Is boiling necessary?
« on: January 18, 2015, 07:51:26 AM »
So I brewed a big healthy bock recently that did awesome.  I saved the yeast from the primary fermentation, rinsed it, and put it in masion jars that had soaked in iodine solution.  After watching some youtube videos of people washing their yeast I noticed that they were boiling their jars instead of using a sterlizing solution.  Am I in trouble having only used the iodine solution?  Is my yeast contaminated?  I was planning on repitching it for a dopplebock 

28
Kegging and Bottling / Re: I hope I'm not screwed
« on: January 04, 2015, 08:06:12 AM »
Yeah, I was wondering if you could just push that ball valve down and squirm a tube through enough to rack the beer in? 

29
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How best to lager
« on: January 04, 2015, 08:04:05 AM »
Interesting thoughts.  It sounds like most people will go ahead and carb.  Honestly, in the past I have always lagered still.  Sounds good.  Thanks

30
General Homebrew Discussion / How best to lager
« on: January 03, 2015, 08:28:04 PM »
So the primary fermentation is done on my bock, which is now around 7.2%.  Can I lager it under CO2?  Is there a difference between lagering under pressure or not?  I was gonna transfer off the yeast cake into a keg and go ahead and start carbonating at lager temps?  Does this work or should I hold off pressuring it? 

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