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Messages - DW

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16
Yeast and Fermentation / underattenuated
« on: December 11, 2014, 05:28:32 PM »
I feel like making a big lager is one of the hardest things.  Brewed a bock from Brewing Classic Styles, pitched lots of healthy yeast, got off to a good start, and I checked my gravity today hoping to see 1.018.  Instead I saw 1.04.  It has been going  about 1.5 weeks at 49-50degrees.  It's bubbling pretty slowy.  Still a lot of gunk on top.  WOUld you all increase temp to activate the yeast?  Add oxygen?  Need some serious help!

17
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: contamination
« on: December 07, 2014, 01:53:24 PM »
I hear you Joe, just took me a year's worth of usage to realize this was the way to handle it.


Sent from Franx Brew Works using Tapatalk

If it only took you a year, your a faster learner than I am.

Good point to leave the hoses on when they are not leaking. Feel like a bit of a moron now!!! :)  Would it be possible to put something better on there that was leak proof and that could be easily disassembled? 

18
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: contamination
« on: December 06, 2014, 08:25:15 PM »

As others have said - you'll be fine. I doubt paper towels are teaming with beer spoilage microbes right off the roll. In fact I'd bet they are pretty clean. Maybe if you had been cleaning up grain dust with it, you could possible have a problem....

That's what I was thinking: what was the towel used for prior to contact?  If just off the roll - no issue. If used to wipe your hands after sneezing - maybe an issue.
Occasionally I get a slight drip from where the water hose connects to the wort chiller, and we were trying to place the paper towel in such way as to prevent drippage.  That's another question I need to ask.  How to create a secure, drip free connection? 

19
General Homebrew Discussion / contamination
« on: December 06, 2014, 10:05:25 AM »
Hey, I was brewing and during the chilling of the hot wort a paper towel briefly touched the cool wort (the wort was around 120degrees).  This ticked me off (as I just told me friend to be super careful), but my friend is not anal retentive like I am (and it was his first intro to home brewing)!! Do ya'll think my beer will be contaminated and have off flavors as a result of this mistake?  I got off to a good fermentation because I pitched lots of healthy yeast from a large starter (for my traditional bock). 

20
General Homebrew Discussion / diacetyl rest
« on: December 06, 2014, 10:01:59 AM »
Not sure if my lager needs it or not.  It's a bock that has fermented at 49-50 degrees, but if I taste that buttery diacetyl flavor I was gonna do a rest.  How and when do you do it?  Towards the end of fermentation, let the temp raise 10-15 degrees for several days?  Do you do when fermentation is complete or as it slows down? 

21
Yeast and Fermentation / starter calculation
« on: November 25, 2014, 03:44:24 PM »
I have made a one liter starter with one vial of wyeast activator at 1.04 gravity.  I figure that gives me about 200billion cells now, right?  I need to get to 500billion cells.  I have a 4L flask.  Can I take the 200 billion cells and get to 500billion in one go or do I need to split it up? 

22
Beer Recipes / Re: Celebrator
« on: November 14, 2014, 11:01:51 AM »
I'm also playing with the traditional bock recipe in Brewing Classic styles:
3.5lbs Pilsner LME
7.5lbs Munich LME
0.5lbs CaraMunich
0.5lbs Crystal 120
4.0oz Meusdoerffer Rost
4.0oz Melanoidin 

The all grain recipe is for 4.5lbs Pilsner and 10.25lbs Munich Malt and mash at 155 degrees. 

Do you guys think this will attenuate down to 1.018 from 1.070?  Should I replace some of the munich LME with Munich malt and mash it?  IF so, how much?  Does anyone know where I can find Messdoerffer Rost? 

23
Beer Recipes / Re: Celebrator
« on: November 14, 2014, 10:54:49 AM »
I mash my grains in a 5 gallon paint strainer bag.  Works great.  I have a strainer that fits over the top of my kettle so I can put the bag in the strainer and let it drain and/or rinse it/sparge it.

For conversion from grain to extract of vice versa, a good rule of thumb is 1 lb of grain = 2/3 lb DME or 3/4 lb LME.

Do you have to do anything with you mash set up to keep the temperature stable?  How much do you sparge with?  What temperature do you sparge? 

24
Beer Recipes / Re: Celebrator
« on: November 14, 2014, 10:35:56 AM »
In reviewing this thread, thougyt I would reemphasize that you need to mash munich malt. it should self convert though. Brewers make 100% munich beers afterall. So this can be your step into all grain by mashing your munich. If youre interested we can help you with that.

So, I could just mash the Munich and specialty grains, and that would help me to attenuate well enough?  I was gonna make a big yeast starter as well.  Could I just do a brew in a bag, kinda like I do with steeping grains prior to the boil for the extract brews?  Just keep a close eye on the temperature to make sure it stays around the right mash temp?  And how would I convert the pounds of extract into the quantity of munich malt needed?

25
Beer Recipes / Re: Celebrator
« on: November 13, 2014, 08:59:30 AM »
I agree that 1/2 carafa seems like a lot. Why not use the 1/3# chocolate that is called for in the clone recipe below? This gets you closer as far as the extract is concerned.

(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.073 FG = 1.021
IBU = 22 SRM = 30 ABV = 6.7%

2.75 lbs. (1.25 kg) Laaglander Light dried malt extract
5.33 lbs. (2.42 kg) Weyermann Bavarian Dunkel liquid malt extract (late addition)
1.33 lbs. (0.6 kg) Munich malt (10 °L)
1.33 lbs. (0.6 kg) Munich malt (20 °L)
0.33 lbs. (0.15 kg) chocolate malt
6 AAU Hallertau hops (60 mins) (1.5 oz./42 g of 4% alpha acids)
1 tsp Irish moss
Wyeast 2206 (Bavarian Lager) or White Labs WLP820 (Octoberfest/Märzen) yeast (4 qt./4 L yeast starter)
0.75 cups corn sugar (for priming)

I saw this recipe also but don't know where I'd find the Laaglander DME or the WEyermann Bavarian Dunkel LME????

26
Beer Recipes / Re: Celebrator
« on: November 13, 2014, 08:57:27 AM »
Good idea. Actually 11 lbs of liquid munich malt extract should get you about 1.070 in 5.5 gallons final volume. You could steep 4 oz of milled carafa in one of those gallons to get your color up. It sounds too easy but I think youd be surprized. If you are worried about all that extract not attenuating out maybe go with 9 lbs munich LME and a pound and a half of good old fashioned sugar. I might round the hops up to 2 oz just to be safe too.

Are you saying that extract will not ferment out as well as all grain?

27
Ingredients / Re: Darkening the beer
« on: November 13, 2014, 08:54:33 AM »
How much sinamar would I put in?  If I did the Sinamar how would I know how much to put in to get an extra 4-6 SRM?  Also, how would the cold steep work?  Would I have to cold steep the sinamar?  Would I have to cold steep all of the partial mash grains?  Would I have to only add the cold steeped liquid late in the boil?  Thanks for all the help!

28
Beer Recipes / Celebrator
« on: November 12, 2014, 08:29:06 PM »
How does this look?  I downloaded it from another forum:---If this is good, how would I convert this to extract?

OG: 1.073
FG: 1.021
IBU: 22 SRM: 30
ABV: 6.7%

10.2 lbs Pilsner malt
2.33 lbs Munich malt (10oL)
2.33 lbs Munich malt (20oL)
0.5 lbs Dehusked Carafa II

1.5 oz. Hallertau 4% AA (60 min)
1 tsp Irish moss

WY2206 (Bavarian Lager) or WLP820 (Octoberfest/Marzen) (4 qt./4 L starter)

29
Ingredients / Darkening the beer
« on: November 12, 2014, 08:20:27 PM »
Can you darken a beer without affecting gravity or flavor?  I ask this because I wanted to brew a bock that comes in at 18 SRM, but I was really hoping to take it to 22-25 SRM.  This is the bock recipe from Brewing Classic Styles. 

30
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Overly carbonated and overly bitter
« on: November 07, 2014, 01:29:48 AM »
I figured it over carbonated because: 1) maybe I added too much priming sugar.  I wouldn't think that was the case, but maybe.  2) I added a little dry yeast to each bottle before capping.  I did this because I crash cooled the beer to help clarify it a little.  If I put too much dry yeast in the bottle would that have picked up and further fermented the beer down to a lower final gravity?  I originally used WLP002. 

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