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Messages - DW

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Is boiling necessary?
« on: January 20, 2015, 02:01:54 AM »
+1 providing you gave it ample time to sanitize.  You should try to use that saved yeast within a couple days or so.  If not, then a starter should be utilized.

How big of a starter should be made?  Why does a starter need to be made?  do the yeast hibernate and just need to be reactivated, or do I need to produce more cells? 

Yeast and Fermentation / Is boiling necessary?
« on: January 18, 2015, 02:51:26 PM »
So I brewed a big healthy bock recently that did awesome.  I saved the yeast from the primary fermentation, rinsed it, and put it in masion jars that had soaked in iodine solution.  After watching some youtube videos of people washing their yeast I noticed that they were boiling their jars instead of using a sterlizing solution.  Am I in trouble having only used the iodine solution?  Is my yeast contaminated?  I was planning on repitching it for a dopplebock 

Kegging and Bottling / Re: I hope I'm not screwed
« on: January 04, 2015, 03:06:12 PM »
Yeah, I was wondering if you could just push that ball valve down and squirm a tube through enough to rack the beer in? 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How best to lager
« on: January 04, 2015, 03:04:05 PM »
Interesting thoughts.  It sounds like most people will go ahead and carb.  Honestly, in the past I have always lagered still.  Sounds good.  Thanks

General Homebrew Discussion / How best to lager
« on: January 04, 2015, 03:28:04 AM »
So the primary fermentation is done on my bock, which is now around 7.2%.  Can I lager it under CO2?  Is there a difference between lagering under pressure or not?  I was gonna transfer off the yeast cake into a keg and go ahead and start carbonating at lager temps?  Does this work or should I hold off pressuring it? 

Kegging and Bottling / I hope I'm not screwed
« on: January 04, 2015, 03:24:29 AM »
So I brewed a big delicious bock for a friend's kegerator.  I just found out that he has a Sanke like system that I know nothing about.  He had rented a keg from a local brewery that was previously filled with commercial beer.  Now it's empty and he wants to use that to put my beer in.  After my beer is done he plans to return the keg (not exactly ethical, I realize this).  Can I even do this?  He sent me a picture of the keg and I can't even figure out how to get the beer in.  I have always used cornelius kegs.  It looks like there is a metal ball obstructing the hole you would drain the beer into.  Any help would be ideal

Yeast and Fermentation / underattenuated
« on: December 12, 2014, 12:28:32 AM »
I feel like making a big lager is one of the hardest things.  Brewed a bock from Brewing Classic Styles, pitched lots of healthy yeast, got off to a good start, and I checked my gravity today hoping to see 1.018.  Instead I saw 1.04.  It has been going  about 1.5 weeks at 49-50degrees.  It's bubbling pretty slowy.  Still a lot of gunk on top.  WOUld you all increase temp to activate the yeast?  Add oxygen?  Need some serious help!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: contamination
« on: December 07, 2014, 08:53:24 PM »
I hear you Joe, just took me a year's worth of usage to realize this was the way to handle it.

Sent from Franx Brew Works using Tapatalk

If it only took you a year, your a faster learner than I am.

Good point to leave the hoses on when they are not leaking. Feel like a bit of a moron now!!! :)  Would it be possible to put something better on there that was leak proof and that could be easily disassembled? 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: contamination
« on: December 07, 2014, 03:25:15 AM »

As others have said - you'll be fine. I doubt paper towels are teaming with beer spoilage microbes right off the roll. In fact I'd bet they are pretty clean. Maybe if you had been cleaning up grain dust with it, you could possible have a problem....

That's what I was thinking: what was the towel used for prior to contact?  If just off the roll - no issue. If used to wipe your hands after sneezing - maybe an issue.
Occasionally I get a slight drip from where the water hose connects to the wort chiller, and we were trying to place the paper towel in such way as to prevent drippage.  That's another question I need to ask.  How to create a secure, drip free connection? 

General Homebrew Discussion / contamination
« on: December 06, 2014, 05:05:25 PM »
Hey, I was brewing and during the chilling of the hot wort a paper towel briefly touched the cool wort (the wort was around 120degrees).  This ticked me off (as I just told me friend to be super careful), but my friend is not anal retentive like I am (and it was his first intro to home brewing)!! Do ya'll think my beer will be contaminated and have off flavors as a result of this mistake?  I got off to a good fermentation because I pitched lots of healthy yeast from a large starter (for my traditional bock). 

General Homebrew Discussion / diacetyl rest
« on: December 06, 2014, 05:01:59 PM »
Not sure if my lager needs it or not.  It's a bock that has fermented at 49-50 degrees, but if I taste that buttery diacetyl flavor I was gonna do a rest.  How and when do you do it?  Towards the end of fermentation, let the temp raise 10-15 degrees for several days?  Do you do when fermentation is complete or as it slows down? 

Yeast and Fermentation / starter calculation
« on: November 25, 2014, 10:44:24 PM »
I have made a one liter starter with one vial of wyeast activator at 1.04 gravity.  I figure that gives me about 200billion cells now, right?  I need to get to 500billion cells.  I have a 4L flask.  Can I take the 200 billion cells and get to 500billion in one go or do I need to split it up? 

Beer Recipes / Re: Celebrator
« on: November 14, 2014, 06:01:51 PM »
I'm also playing with the traditional bock recipe in Brewing Classic styles:
3.5lbs Pilsner LME
7.5lbs Munich LME
0.5lbs CaraMunich
0.5lbs Crystal 120
4.0oz Meusdoerffer Rost
4.0oz Melanoidin 

The all grain recipe is for 4.5lbs Pilsner and 10.25lbs Munich Malt and mash at 155 degrees. 

Do you guys think this will attenuate down to 1.018 from 1.070?  Should I replace some of the munich LME with Munich malt and mash it?  IF so, how much?  Does anyone know where I can find Messdoerffer Rost? 

Beer Recipes / Re: Celebrator
« on: November 14, 2014, 05:54:49 PM »
I mash my grains in a 5 gallon paint strainer bag.  Works great.  I have a strainer that fits over the top of my kettle so I can put the bag in the strainer and let it drain and/or rinse it/sparge it.

For conversion from grain to extract of vice versa, a good rule of thumb is 1 lb of grain = 2/3 lb DME or 3/4 lb LME.

Do you have to do anything with you mash set up to keep the temperature stable?  How much do you sparge with?  What temperature do you sparge? 

Beer Recipes / Re: Celebrator
« on: November 14, 2014, 05:35:56 PM »
In reviewing this thread, thougyt I would reemphasize that you need to mash munich malt. it should self convert though. Brewers make 100% munich beers afterall. So this can be your step into all grain by mashing your munich. If youre interested we can help you with that.

So, I could just mash the Munich and specialty grains, and that would help me to attenuate well enough?  I was gonna make a big yeast starter as well.  Could I just do a brew in a bag, kinda like I do with steeping grains prior to the boil for the extract brews?  Just keep a close eye on the temperature to make sure it stays around the right mash temp?  And how would I convert the pounds of extract into the quantity of munich malt needed?

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