Nice! Not sure how you can bear to stand next to a boil kettle at 100F tho.When I brew in the summer, I mash-in at 6:00am, done by noon!
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For what you want to do, I would just brew Denny's Bourbon Vanilla Imperial Porter recipe. No reason to re-invent the wheel.That would be the "pragmatic" thing to do!
With a PID controller that has a manual mode you can just change the setpoint at any time to "dial up" the temps you want. I wish they offered a 1500 watt/115V heater option as I do not have 230v at my brewstand.I just bought one of the Blichmann RIMS-Rockets myself... Had been holding off to have a custom made HERMS tank made for me... but won a $200 gift card at the NHC so.... RIMS it is
Keep us posted on how you handle the temperature control. I'm wondering about getting one myself.
I just asked my wife if we knew any electrical engineers as I'm pondering this myself. I'd like to be able to dial up temps as opposed to programming them per Lonny's YouTube video. I just don't know enough and I don't want to spend my life researching it.....
I also don't want to go touchscreen so I'm in a quandary right now.
You can buy one for about $60! www.auberins.comI'm interested in the Blichman RIMS system. Any idea about the best way to get temperature control without getting their Tower of Power?
You could build a simple manual control unit using a solid-state voltage regulator and potentiometer for under $100.00.
But I already have the hop rocket.FWIW you put the thermocouple on the OUTPUT side of the heating plenum, it takes too long for the mash output to respond to temperature changes. TC on the plenum out (mash tun in) prevents too much overshoot.
Seems like it would be easy to put a a Thermowell into the input side of the HR then use a typical temp controller to turn the power on and off. But I'm no expert.
How do you pull beer into the regulator when the gas is on? If you're shaking, and the beer absorbs gas, more gas flows in...Me too! There are two things you DON'T want to do while shaking 1) Turn the pressure DOWN 2) Close the valve on the regulator barb. Both of these will make beer come up the line.
I just don't see beer flowing out.
I shake with the gas hooked up regularly. I have clear gas lines and have never seen beer come back up.
Part of the issue for me is that I cold crash 3 times. Once when FG is reached to precipitate the yeast, after which I dump the yeast and I raise the temp again to dry hop. Then crash again to precipitate the hops and dump them. I have been kegging at that point and then continuing the cold conditioning in the keg... so I guess its 2 times, the second one in conical and keg.Oooo. I like the stopper with a valve idea!
Anyway, I think the solution that I am going to do is this: once FG is reached just use a stopper with a valve stuck in it. That way I can keep it closed during cooling and when I go to keg I can just attach CO2 and transfer it with a little pressure to the keg.
But again, this appears to be a solution in search of a problem. But being the CDO type I'm going to do it anyway. (CDO is the same as OCD except the letters are in the correct order)
The biggest thing about 1450 is the smooth mouthfeel. A perfect complement for rye beers. Even if it finishes at the same gravity as 1056, it feels fuller bodied.Denny, do you find that 1056 and 1450 actually do finish the same?
A DP over 200 for a Continental malt? I would think that maybe that is the WK index not degrees Lintner. 6 row is in the 160-180 degrees Lintner range.Oops, you are right, my bad. The pils is 250 WK/74 Lintner.
I tried to find it, couldn't. What are you planning on doing? They say it will convert itself at 100%. I would probably not try to use it to convert an adjunct though.Doing a Red Rye IPA 19lbs Red X, 4lbs flaked rye, 2 lbs Carared. Maybe I'll just swap 4 lbs of the Red x, for Best Pils. It has a diastatic power of over 200!