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Messages - dak0415

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421
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermentation Room Temp
« on: August 30, 2010, 01:34:48 PM »
So, with an ambient room temp of say 40F, a 40-watt bulb should keep my refrigerator at ale fermentation temp?
I understand that direct light on the carboy is to be avoided, but what about indirect, light that is reflected off the insides of the refrigerator, onto the carboy?  
Yes, leave the temp controller active, the fridge thermostat will probably not go UP to 60!

Using the coffee can method very little light escapes and it's all reflected incandescent so no UV problems.  At 40deg ambient, my 25watt bulb works well.  Any colder than that and I need to switch to the 40.  With the 2 stage I will just leave the 40 in.  It heats sooo slowly that the freezer can easily overpower it when the temp gets above setpoint.  Just avoid the temptation to peek inside.  All that warm air leaves the building quickly.

422
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fire!
« on: August 30, 2010, 12:48:43 PM »
I think the 1/2" pipe holds it in position.
It's similar to Keith's but his has way more jets.

423
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager Starters at Lager Temps?
« on: August 30, 2010, 12:43:16 PM »
Tom is to yeast as Kai is to mash chemistry :D

424
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager Starters at Lager Temps?
« on: August 30, 2010, 10:53:33 AM »
Nah, just pitch about 65, O2 and throw it on the stir plate!

425
Pimp My System / Re: Arctic Brewery and Mobile Fermentation Trailer
« on: August 30, 2010, 10:51:11 AM »
I was banned from buying from them! 
Yeah!  What did you do to piss them off?

426
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Steam beer question
« on: August 30, 2010, 10:48:14 AM »
Mike,
You never did say, what temp did you pitch at?

427
All Grain Brewing / Re: Necessary to Sparge with a HERMS system?
« on: August 30, 2010, 08:35:24 AM »
Short answer - No, not after you stir the crap out of it to mash in.

Well, at this point I usually add the disclaimer. "This is what I do.  It works for me.  Your process may vary".
I have a 10 gallon RIMS system, so I am heating the mash liquid directly, but the theory is the same.  When you fly sparge you don't really recirculate, you just use the pump to redirect the runoff to the kettle (slowly).  When I batch sparge, I drain the mash tun into the kettle, which compacts the grain bed a little, add my first sparge volume, usually 4.5-5.5 gallons, give it a stir, put it back on recirculate for 10 minutes till the wort clears, drain again, add my second rinse (again 4.5-5.5 gallons), no stir here, recirc for another 10 minutes,  drain to collect 15 gallons pre boil.  I usually get 82% efficiency and the gravity of the final runnings is never less that 1.015 at 168F so no worries with tannins.

428
All Grain Brewing / Re: Necessary to Sparge with a HERMS system?
« on: August 30, 2010, 07:53:03 AM »
Unless you are going to do a very thin mash (2.5 qts/lb) you WILL have to sparge to hit your pre boil gravity.  Herms doesn't change tthe process, just your ability to maintain a constant, uniform mash temp without stirring.  The recirculation simplifies the batch sparging process by automating the vorlauf, eliminating it if you are going to fly sparge.

429
42 Gallon Blichmann Fermenator with a frost free upright freezer to put it in.  Or maybe one of those glass door commercial display freezers.

430
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermentation Room Temp
« on: August 30, 2010, 07:22:42 AM »
A 40 watt light is enough to heat my chest freezer in the winter. I could have rewired my temp controller to heat mode but I just let the freezer to cool it down if it gets too hot.
I did pretty much the same thing.  I'm in NC so a 25 watt bulb usually does the trick.  I lucked into a 2 stage ranco for 45 bucks so I'll be adding the bulb to the heat side come October or so.  I just cover the bulb with a small steel coffee can to keep the light away from the wort.

431
Ingredients / Re: Domestic Challenger...English Bittering Hops...
« on: August 29, 2010, 02:13:25 PM »
I my experience for bittering, you are better off using northern brewer (or Northdown) than magnum.  If NB, target, and challenger are not available, I recently used Perle in a porter and it was great.  Otherwise, just use EKG for bittering.  The flavor profile from magnum is not bad, it's just so different that it's disappointing.

432
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing up a pitch from bottle dregs
« on: August 27, 2010, 01:07:30 PM »
Thanks,
I appreciate the info.


433
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing up a pitch from bottle dregs
« on: August 27, 2010, 12:27:11 PM »
So given enough time, 1.040 starters will yield more yeast.  But if you're pulling it off the 1.040 starter when there is still a lot of alcohol in the starter, then it might actually be better with the 1.010 starter.
What kind of time are we talking about, extra day, 3?

434
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing up a pitch from bottle dregs
« on: August 27, 2010, 11:02:29 AM »
That will be totally fine, although I'm not sure you even need the mix.

The mix was more for yeast nutrients but I guess you have to add nutrients to the growth medium (distinguished from starter) the same way you have to add nutrients to mead.  What concentration would you recommend to grow the little buggers, and would you need more steps than using 1.040 wort?

435
Zymurgy / Re: 2011 Zymurgy topics
« on: August 27, 2010, 08:47:14 AM »
Maybe the "Gordon Strong Swimsuit Issue"?   :o

Ok, that conjures up a disturbing picture!

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