Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - dak0415

Pages: 1 ... 28 29 [30] 31 32 ... 37
Pimp My System / Re: Arctic Brewery and Mobile Fermentation Trailer
« on: August 30, 2010, 10:51:11 AM »
I was banned from buying from them! 
Yeah!  What did you do to piss them off?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Steam beer question
« on: August 30, 2010, 10:48:14 AM »
You never did say, what temp did you pitch at?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Necessary to Sparge with a HERMS system?
« on: August 30, 2010, 08:35:24 AM »
Short answer - No, not after you stir the crap out of it to mash in.

Well, at this point I usually add the disclaimer. "This is what I do.  It works for me.  Your process may vary".
I have a 10 gallon RIMS system, so I am heating the mash liquid directly, but the theory is the same.  When you fly sparge you don't really recirculate, you just use the pump to redirect the runoff to the kettle (slowly).  When I batch sparge, I drain the mash tun into the kettle, which compacts the grain bed a little, add my first sparge volume, usually 4.5-5.5 gallons, give it a stir, put it back on recirculate for 10 minutes till the wort clears, drain again, add my second rinse (again 4.5-5.5 gallons), no stir here, recirc for another 10 minutes,  drain to collect 15 gallons pre boil.  I usually get 82% efficiency and the gravity of the final runnings is never less that 1.015 at 168F so no worries with tannins.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Necessary to Sparge with a HERMS system?
« on: August 30, 2010, 07:53:03 AM »
Unless you are going to do a very thin mash (2.5 qts/lb) you WILL have to sparge to hit your pre boil gravity.  Herms doesn't change tthe process, just your ability to maintain a constant, uniform mash temp without stirring.  The recirculation simplifies the batch sparging process by automating the vorlauf, eliminating it if you are going to fly sparge.

42 Gallon Blichmann Fermenator with a frost free upright freezer to put it in.  Or maybe one of those glass door commercial display freezers.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermentation Room Temp
« on: August 30, 2010, 07:22:42 AM »
A 40 watt light is enough to heat my chest freezer in the winter. I could have rewired my temp controller to heat mode but I just let the freezer to cool it down if it gets too hot.
I did pretty much the same thing.  I'm in NC so a 25 watt bulb usually does the trick.  I lucked into a 2 stage ranco for 45 bucks so I'll be adding the bulb to the heat side come October or so.  I just cover the bulb with a small steel coffee can to keep the light away from the wort.

Ingredients / Re: Domestic Challenger...English Bittering Hops...
« on: August 29, 2010, 02:13:25 PM »
I my experience for bittering, you are better off using northern brewer (or Northdown) than magnum.  If NB, target, and challenger are not available, I recently used Perle in a porter and it was great.  Otherwise, just use EKG for bittering.  The flavor profile from magnum is not bad, it's just so different that it's disappointing.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing up a pitch from bottle dregs
« on: August 27, 2010, 01:07:30 PM »
I appreciate the info.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing up a pitch from bottle dregs
« on: August 27, 2010, 12:27:11 PM »
So given enough time, 1.040 starters will yield more yeast.  But if you're pulling it off the 1.040 starter when there is still a lot of alcohol in the starter, then it might actually be better with the 1.010 starter.
What kind of time are we talking about, extra day, 3?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing up a pitch from bottle dregs
« on: August 27, 2010, 11:02:29 AM »
That will be totally fine, although I'm not sure you even need the mix.

The mix was more for yeast nutrients but I guess you have to add nutrients to the growth medium (distinguished from starter) the same way you have to add nutrients to mead.  What concentration would you recommend to grow the little buggers, and would you need more steps than using 1.040 wort?

Zymurgy / Re: 2011 Zymurgy topics
« on: August 27, 2010, 08:47:14 AM »
Maybe the "Gordon Strong Swimsuit Issue"?   :o

Ok, that conjures up a disturbing picture!

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Culturing up a pitch from bottle dregs
« on: August 27, 2010, 08:43:37 AM »
I'm a grad student getting a PhD in Biochemistry and have done a lot of work with yeast.  Our standard media is 2% glucose.  I propagate all of my fermenting strains with the same formula and have had great success growing stuff out of bottles.

That being said, I always use DME for my starters, never glucose.  You want the yeast to already have made and be making maltase when you throw them into your beer, it decreases the lag time.  Some people say that yeast grown in glucose lose the ability to ferment maltose, which is really incredibly unlikely unless you do it for a long time.  But they will take longer to get going, because glucose represses the expression of maltase so first they have to switch the maltase genes on.  So always feed your yeast maltose before putting them in your wort.
What do you think about doing the first and second step ups for a big starter with a glucose/dme mix and then the final starter with all DME?  I have been considering ways to reduce the cost of making large starters, short of doing a mash just for starter wort.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: oxygenation tips
« on: August 27, 2010, 06:03:08 AM »
Someone might have mentioned this already, but what about using compressed O2? I heard you can buy oxygen canisters at the hardware store. I assume these are meant for cutting torches, and therefore not "medical grade" oxygen. Are they safe? Are they worthwhile?
I bought a regulator and .5 micron SS stone from Morebeer (on sale) a couple of years ago and have never looked back.  I did it mostly for the time savings (2 minutes for a big beer, 1-2 for others) and less foam.  Between that and fermentation temperature control, My beers have improved dramatically.  They seem to last a long time too -  20+ batches per tank.  I was hoping for 10.

Equipment and Software / Re: Propane Gas Burner - Major Soot Problem
« on: August 26, 2010, 12:57:13 PM »
Your regulator should say what the psi rating is.  If the plastic nut that tightens the ACME fitting is black, then it is probably a 1 psi regulator (like for a grill).  If it's green, then it is a high pressure (10-30 psi) regulator, and it should have the rating embossed on it.

Is the flame yellow without the kettle on the burner or yellow after you get the kettle on top?

Equipment and Software / Re: Propane Gas Burner - Major Soot Problem
« on: August 26, 2010, 10:13:44 AM »
How many BTU's is that monster supposed to be? Last question, what color is the flame coming out of the jets?  That is the key!

Check this out

Pages: 1 ... 28 29 [30] 31 32 ... 37