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Messages - boapiu

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1
Kegging and Bottling / Re: too much foam from tap ?
« on: September 07, 2014, 01:17:24 PM »
ks are much better today. pour number 4 or 5 on the keg and everything seems normal. using about 10 ft of beer line and CO2 pressure set on 10-12 psi. guess I should have tried the right kind of beer line.

2
Kegging and Bottling / Re: too much foam from tap ?
« on: September 05, 2014, 01:41:02 PM »
Everything from the keg to the picnic tap is kept inside the fridge. I am not using a tower, just a 5 gal soda keg with a picnic tap on the end of a length of beer line. So, the temperature should not be a factor. But I will take note of any difference from the first pour to subsequent ones.

3
Kegging and Bottling / too much foam from tap ?
« on: September 05, 2014, 01:27:05 PM »
I am force carbonating at 10-12 psi and when I start to serve from the keg it seems over carbonated, too much head and foam. Generally these beers are pale ales (my fav) but also on everything I force carbonate at 10-12 psi. I have tried 10 ft lengths of beer line from the keg to the picnic tap and this doesn't make a difference from 3 ft lengths or 10 feet of cheap HD tubing - still too much head. However, I used my spare CO2 tank for serving only, set at 2-4 psi and had acceptable results. Unfortunately, as time wore on the beer seemed to loose carbonation, as expected. I would like to connect all my kegs to one source of pressure and both force carbonate and serve without swapping things around, but I don't like the beer coming out of the picnic tap with so much force, or the excessive head which results. What's a mother to do?
Wondering if I am missing something here or is this the cost of doing business. If anyone has experienced similar and solved same, I appreciate your input. TIA.

4
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wet vs. Dry Yeast
« on: March 24, 2014, 03:26:40 PM »
Is there a comparison of wet vs dry for all or most of the dry yeast offerings? not meaning to hijack the thread but, my most recent starter did not start and I had some dry to fall back on, which made me wonder, why not just use the dry? In this case I was suspecting warm conditions in shipping so, dry yeast stores longer, arrives safe, if the reault is just as good,.....

5
Ingredients / long term storage of ingrdients
« on: January 06, 2014, 05:16:00 AM »
will it damage unmilled grain if stored in a freezer?

6
All Grain Brewing / Re: Biscuit Malt in a Munich Helles?
« on: August 02, 2013, 03:08:58 PM »
 "Bueller?... Bueller?... Bueller?"

7
Thanks. Kinda what I was thinking. I have 10 foot lines on my taps but as it gets near the end of the keg things get sort of foamy. I am expanding from a four line distribution to eight, so I considered doing the second regulator, as I will mostly have one keg tapped and the second one standing by. I recently reworked my beer fridge to hold twice as many kegs - gave up bottling for the life of ease. again, thanks for the input. I suppose I can consider the increase in perceived pressure a sign that kicking is near - a sad day. 

8
If I had two separate co2 tanks and regulators and set one to force carbonate my kegs at 10-12 psi for say a week to 10 days at about 40 degrees, then switched the gas in line to a different co2 tank with regulator set at lower pressure for serving perhaps 2-3 psi, would the co2 slowly diffuse from solution and eventually result in the beer having a lower level of carbonation, ultimately equivalent to 2-3 psi? would the beer last long enough to find out?
okay, any ideas about the first question?

9
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from keg at room temperature
« on: July 11, 2013, 02:10:32 PM »
the problem is one of science, chemistry, physics, whatever... the temperature of the liquid determines, in part, the amount of CO2 saturation. Time takes over next, unless you improvise with shaking or something else. Hope it works.
For what it is worth, I intend to experiment with a diffusion stone on a modified gas in tube for my next keg. I have been told that with the diffusion stone submerged towards the bottom of the keg it will be carbonated in about one day, once it has reached proper temperature. We shall see.

10
Thanks for the reply. I will give this a try. If I understand you correctly you are bottling beer after it has carbonated in your keg. And I assume it does not taste different after a reasonable amount of time.
Thanks again.

11
Okay, pardon me for not doing a search but I am lazy and it is Friday afternoon and my weekend ends tomorrow at 1100 hours so I have already assumed that the sun is over the yardarm and I am on my ? brew.
That being said, and having excused myself and taken for granted the kindness and patience of my fellow AHA members, I ask the question which follows.
what is the advantage of a pressure bottle filler arrangement? and where to get educated about how to use one? oops, two questions.
Background. They, bottle fillers,  seem to be expensive and I do not know how to use them. But, I like kegging a heck of a lot more than bottling and do not often care about giving my brews away (off premises). Currently I keg some and bottle some. And, for what it is worth, my bottled brew always seems to taste a bit off, at least compared to my kegged brew from the same batch. And that, pride being a big elephant in the closet for a relatively new homebrewer, is one of the big issues here. Why is my beer from a bottle, aged according to specs, tasting so differerent than that from the keg, although granted the keg is consumed in merely a few weeks, (days!?...hmm, after carbonation, of course). I consistently use corn sugar and about the same amount recommended by recognised books and am careful of sanitation, though no one is perfect and I have had to toss a batch or two and no one is perfect but really, can there be that big a difference? Guess so.
Back to the question, how about those pressure bottle fillers where I keg all my brew and only fill bottles as needed or wanted?
Thanks for your indulgence and I hope there are those amoung you who have current experience and can lend some free advice. I really enjoy this hobby.

12
I will try some calibration stuff via cooling etc,... And definitely check my readings with my spare hydrometer. Otherwise, the product is good, so okay. Thanks for the good ideas. Chilling the sample, I was relying on conversion software. Darn fine beer, either way.

13
If measurements over 100f are worthless, how do you get a valid gravity pre boil?

14
Truly, I have never calibrated my hydrometer. But I do have a spare, next brew I will use them both and compare. I am thinking margin of error, and dont worry it too much. Thanks.

15
Twice now I have measured preboil gravity and then post boil and found they are close, but just a bit higher after the boil. All grain, 10 gallons, using a thermopen to check the temperature of my sample. I usually collect about 13 gallons of wort and have around 11+ after 60 minute boil. For example, today I got 1.016 at 180f pre boil (converts to 1.045?) and 1.042 at 70f post boil (1.043?). I am more than happy with my efficiency and all that, but I had thought the gravity would increase as volume decreased during the boil. Any thoughts? Maybe this is within the margin of error considering my instruments.

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