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Messages - boapiu

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If measurements over 100f are worthless, how do you get a valid gravity pre boil?

Truly, I have never calibrated my hydrometer. But I do have a spare, next brew I will use them both and compare. I am thinking margin of error, and dont worry it too much. Thanks.

Twice now I have measured preboil gravity and then post boil and found they are close, but just a bit higher after the boil. All grain, 10 gallons, using a thermopen to check the temperature of my sample. I usually collect about 13 gallons of wort and have around 11+ after 60 minute boil. For example, today I got 1.016 at 180f pre boil (converts to 1.045?) and 1.042 at 70f post boil (1.043?). I am more than happy with my efficiency and all that, but I had thought the gravity would increase as volume decreased during the boil. Any thoughts? Maybe this is within the margin of error considering my instruments.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mashing with flaked maize
« on: March 15, 2013, 07:19:51 PM »
Just finished cleaning up and everything went fine. I did put in the rice hulls but as the brewing session progressed and I was making notes and thinking about brewing it came to me that I probably got the idea about rice hulls from reading about wheat beers. I am going to brew a wit next month and will definitely use them then.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mashing with flaked maize
« on: March 15, 2013, 12:01:12 PM »

All Grain Brewing / Mashing with flaked maize
« on: March 14, 2013, 07:55:28 PM »
Trying first batch using adjunct flaked maize. Have read to put some rice hulls at bottom of mash tun. Question, does the flaked maize get crushed along with my base malts? Using about 9 lbs pilsner, 9 lbs 2 row and 3 lbs of flaked maize for a 10 gallon batch of cream ale. Thanks in advance.

Equipment and Software / recirculating wort return device
« on: January 30, 2013, 04:16:03 PM »
I have been trying different ways to recirculate my wort at the end of mashing and tried this seemingly simple method last brewing session. It worked very well without any channelling that I could detect. It is a stainless pickup tube connected to a weld less fitting through the side of the keggle. On the other end is short length of tubing with a wort aerator inserted into it. I fitted a clamp over this because I was concerned it might come loose while mashing. The fit is very snug and the clamp is probably not needed but,....
The wort exits just below the top level of fluid in the mash when I am converting a typical 10 gallon batch. On the outside of the keggle through fitting I have a valve to regulate the flow rate. Of course this requires a pump, which I already had as part of my brew rig.
I really like the results of recirculating the wort until it flows into the MT clear as glass. And this latest step in the evolution of my brew rig clears the way for some type of heat exchange to better maintain my mash temp and perhaps perform step mashes.

Beer Recipes / Re: ? Ale made with german lager yeast ?
« on: December 13, 2012, 09:05:04 AM »
Thanks. I will check info at Mr Malty. Recently changed brewing routine to include making starters for every batch and definitely this one as the date on the vial is 31 Dec 12.

Beer Recipes / ? Ale made with german lager yeast ?
« on: December 12, 2012, 07:06:58 PM »
I am notmready to try my luck at brewing a lager quite yet but, I got ahead of myself and ordered some WLP830 German Lager Yeast. I have brewed a couple california common style batches using lager yeast, what are the chances of getting similar good results fermenting at ale temps with this yeast? Any ideas for a recipe? I did a search but everything that came up was fermrnted at lager temps. Thanks for any ideas.

Equipment and Software / Re: RIMS Question
« on: November 26, 2012, 05:24:29 AM »
I use this adjustable return tube from Brew Hardware.  Food grade and safe up to 170 F.

Does that thing float on the surface of the mash well?

The Pub / Re: Stay off my f'ing driveway!
« on: August 09, 2012, 08:22:34 PM »
Spread a box of roofing nails and keep refreshing it for a couple weeks. Then get in touch with the local garage and ask for a commission on the uptick in tire patching biz they get. Of course, you can't use your own drive for a while but any repeat customers will soon get the idea.
My other idea is to put some railroad ties across and buy yourself a big four wheel drive. But that could cost too much.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Plastic crates
« on: August 09, 2012, 08:05:35 PM »
I still use the cardboard boxes but I strengthened the bottom seams with packing tape. When I consider the upgrades I would like for home brewing I can't justify buying something that I can get free. My source for boxes is a nearby bar that goes through seven or eight cases of bud, bud light, miller lite every Friday and Saturday. If I need boxes I just swing by early the morning after and ask the guy cleaning up if he will let me have the empty boxes. He has always been very happy since it saves him breaking them down and hauling to the recycling center.
I'm only talking about six or eight cases of bottles in my entire inventory. Most of my turnover is kegged, which makes me happy. It is easy to add strength to the bottom of used cardboard beer boxes with a little packaging tape.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Some very basic kegging questions
« on: August 01, 2012, 11:23:32 AM »
I looked at the 'bodensatz' link and it is very thorough. Might I suggest your local home brew club for a hands on demo of a keg set up? Also, I second verifying that you can have your tank refilled vice traded before you buy a shiny new aluminum tank only to get an old banged up steel one in exchange. I have purchased from the following without complaint -for keg parts - for regulator

Equipment and Software / Re: Garage door opener
« on: July 15, 2012, 10:23:24 PM »
The ideal speed for a mill is 400rpm.  You would need to make a design change to allow for more rpm at the motor.  This would likely involve a larger drive pulley at the motor side. Again, you'll need to calculate the size pulley needed to drive the mill at approx. 400 rpm.
I have a Valley Mill and the sticker on the side states MAX SPEED 300 RPM. Last time I was using it with my cordless drill the battery ran out on the last few pounds and I had to attach the hand crank. I wound up with a bit of sweat on the browe and had to swap hands but when it was all said and done it had a therapeutic feel to it. It was as off I had put more of myself into the brew days effort. I may opt for that next time but make sure the drill battery is charged, in case.  ;)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: New Wort over an active yeast cake
« on: July 15, 2012, 10:15:56 PM »
I just tried this, pitching a fresh wort into the empty bucket that I just racked from. It was planned but did not execute well, the timing was rushed and I realized at the last moment that the primary I was emptying was a black IPA! Holy dark before light, Batman. It was too late at that time so I guess we will see what becomes of my pale ale wort. I will try to report back. In the future I hope to always take time to clean the collected yeast, at least a little and then make a starter. Still, this hobby has unlimited opportunities for discovery.  :-\

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