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Messages - boapiu

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FL / Re: Lake Worth,Fl
« on: October 26, 2011, 02:09:16 PM »
BX Beer Depot
2964 Second Avenue North
Lake Worth, FL 33461

FL / Re: Learn to Homebrew Day, 2011
« on: October 26, 2011, 02:08:10 PM »
Google, man, google. Lake Worth, FL.

BX Beer Depot
2964 Second Avenue North
Lake Worth, FL 33461

Equipment and Software / Re: Bazzoka in Cooler Style Mash Tun
« on: October 26, 2011, 01:20:15 PM »
Thanks for the replies.  I have the 72qt Coleman Xtreme cooler ( blue one of course ).  The toilet supply braid is getting pretty beat up and I just happen to have this bazooka screen and thought it would work great.

You use ss clamps on this?  I would assume the threaded connection would hold.

Last question, does it matter what type of SS coupler I get ( i.e. 304 vs 315 stainless ) as long as it's the right size and stainless ( i.e. not galvanized )?  The LHBS doesn't carry couplers so I was going to hit Home Depot and pick one up.  I could order one online, but I was hoping to get the mash tun back together by this weekend ( and don't want to pay $7 shipping for a $4 part ).


Just me but, I am a neubee. Try it the quick way just this one time. It appears you got a date with some hot mash and can't afford to wait. Then order the stuff you want. You will rest easier knowing that the clamps are just what you always wanted. After all, this is your beer. and won't it taste great when it is ready. - not a question

I recommend starting off with a single infusion at 152-153F for at least 60min. Then batch sparge at 168F. Do you have a cooler?

I find it easiest to heat your strike water to the proper temp and then add the grain to the water.

Huzzah. Though one text does not agree, I do. It just seems easier to adjust the water temp and then add the grain. And experience will tell you how much temperature loss for the grain. I have been working the same recipe over and over while I get my new all grain system up and running. Strike water : 160. Mash temp (after dough in) 152. Then mash out as near to 170 as I can adding near boiling water and recirculating. So far, I am happy with the beer that has resulted. I am trying to keep things simple but I also plan to investigate a HERMS or other type of temperature step in my brewing in the future.
ps. 10 gallon batch and my actual temps are + or - 2 degrees.

Yeast and Fermentation / How many builds for a starter?
« on: October 25, 2011, 03:36:50 PM »
I'm just experimenting with a yeast starter and have added a second serving of wort which resulted in an additional day or two of activity. Now things have stopped and I added another serving of wort and am waiting to see if more fermentation and yeast growth occurs. I don't plan to brew again for about a week or so. Can this starter keep going through this cycling until then? I read in one of the brewing bibles about a starter that had been build up several times but there was no information about how this was done and what, if any, was the limit. My intention is to increase the pitching rate without having to buy so many vials of liquid yeast. This starter was from new vial of liquid yeast. Thanks.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg maintance
« on: October 24, 2011, 05:36:18 AM »
You said you had no experience in keg maintenance. Do you have experience kegging? I ask because I just got started kegging and was surprised at the associated expenses - Co2 tank and regulator, faucets, etc. There was a back issue of BYO that addressed getting started and I thought was pretty good. Pressure testing your cleaned and refurbished keg is a good idea before you trust your brew to it.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash bed temp
« on: October 24, 2011, 05:20:57 AM »

I agree you stir as long as it takes.  Also, I use a minimum 1.5/1lb mash that creates a consistent mash bek temp fairly quickly.


Any suggestions for  analog  reference thermometers. Homebrew shops label the  $8 generic glass thermometers (with mecury or whatever) as "lab" grade.   

I was considering one of these. You might take a look at the "gear" forum.

Read the Palmer stuff online, it is free. I was surprised at the difference in technique between what was in his book and BYO and Miller. In the end, it probably doesn't matter much so long as you have good sanitation but, the more I read about this hobby I realize how many ideas are out there. I just brewed my first 10 gallon all grain and learned more than I had anticipated. No substitute for experience.

Equipment and Software / Re: Plate chiller
« on: October 15, 2011, 06:45:23 AM »
2 cents - if you are wanting to upgrade I would go all the way to the top. The therminator sounds like the one to get. I recently switched from a counter flow to an immersion for several reasons. Peace of mind concerning sanitation, no need for a pump (may or may not be an issue for your equipment but I had trouble getting the flow through my counter flow chiller with gravity alone), I can use a two stage cooling process using ground water initially until the temperature stalls around 100 then incorporating a pre-chiller in an ice bucket to get down to pitching temp, and chilling in the boil kettle allows me to leave more trub out of the fermentor. I am in Miami so chilling my boil is one of my biggest hurdles.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: ? are some posts/kegs interchangeable?
« on: October 04, 2011, 07:15:09 AM »
Hope the poppets are in them.  They are all different too.
Unfortunately, no. However, I just got the catalog from a supplier and they show a picture of what looks like my 2.5 gallon keg. I am going to inquire as to the manufacture and then I can either match my posts or buy some that are correct.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: ? are some posts/kegs interchangeable?
« on: October 02, 2011, 06:39:27 PM »
Thanks for the link. I had no idea that spartan and Cornelius were the same keg type according to the link. The link will be very helpful with sorting out the parts I have. I wish that these kegs had come put together. Unfortunately all the post and lids were in one box so there was no other way to match things up but by means of some sherlock.

Kegging and Bottling / ? are some posts/kegs interchangeable?
« on: October 02, 2011, 02:06:45 PM »
I have some small kegs (2.5 - 3 gallon) with no markings to reveal if they are corny, firestone or spartan. I also have an assortment of posts, some pin but most ball lock. I have no idea what goes with what. I can only try them out by charging the keg and leak check. Most of the posts look like spartan but there are some pin locks that don't look like anything. And the poppers all look like they should belong to corny posts but, like I said, none of the posts look like corny. So.... How much interchangeability is there with these things? Or should I just RDWHAHB? of course, I am doing that but also trying to figure out this mess of kegs I have.
Ps. I bought these as partmof a much larger all grain system and the kegs and Co2 stuff were incidental. But now I am aiming toward 10 gallon batches and legging needs to be part of that. TIA

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