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Messages - roffenburger

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: FC Temp/Pressure for bottling
« on: June 04, 2013, 10:25:35 PM »
The carbonation loss with a beer gun is not noticeable-at least not to me. It won't matter what temp you carbonate at. Be sure to follow a carbonation chart to determine what pressure to apply at that temperature.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Saison help
« on: May 10, 2013, 01:33:19 PM »
Sounds good. Thanks for the input.

I wonder what triggers the stall for some people. Underpitching, perhaps?

Yeast and Fermentation / Saison help
« on: May 10, 2013, 12:38:55 AM »
I have three saison strains, WLP565, WLP570 and WLP568(?). I got them from a local brewery who was doing some trial fermentations with them.

I am going to brew a batch and split between the three strains. Do you guys have any tips for fermentation temperature profiles on each of these? I hear 565 tends to stall out if you don't pay close attention to the temperature. Are the other two pretty straight forward? I plan to start around 68 and let temperature free rise and maybe apply some heat if needed. How warm should I get them?

The recipe is the Saison from BCS

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Checking Back In.
« on: September 12, 2012, 01:18:23 AM »
Well hey there Blatz. Good to "see" you.

The Pub / Re: Kia Sorento
« on: September 01, 2012, 02:51:59 AM »
Yup. Sounds like a freak one-off to me.
There's no doubt about it.

The Pub / Re:
« on: August 30, 2012, 01:19:06 AM »
Do it.

The Pub / Re: Kia Sorento
« on: August 30, 2012, 01:18:32 AM »
Did you guys see this story?

The Pub / Re: geography of craft beer
« on: August 26, 2012, 04:12:14 PM »
Local laws, bureaucracy, can be a huge barrier to entering this industry.
Many of the counties here is KS don't allow Sunday liquor sales and there are still several dry counties. The laws for actually making and distributing beer are very strict.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 5 gallon starters and you drink them.
« on: August 01, 2012, 02:34:51 PM »
I think what he's talking about is re-pitching the yeast from a batch in the 1.040-1.055 range. Just make a batch of beer as normal, keg/bottle, and save the yeast in the bottom of your fermenter for another batch. Its a great way to save some money as well as the additional effort of a starter.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Temperature fluctuations - Bad or OK?
« on: July 31, 2012, 03:47:15 PM »
I'd say 68* is too high for 3711. If you love fusels though, go nuts.
Really? I did a French saison a couple months ago with 3711 and let it rise to about 78. I am really happy with the result.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: optimal dry hop temperature?
« on: July 15, 2012, 04:06:27 PM »
In my experience vegetal aromas and flavors are extracted much more noticeably at lower temps.  If I dry hop with american hops at 55 degrees (winter in my cellar), I get up to several weeks of grass/wood before it dissapates.  When I dry hop with the same volumes at 70F, it only typically imparts that character for a few days. 

And yes, you're reading that right... I get chlorophyll notes at the BEGINNING of dry hopping-- not after extended periods of dry hop contact like prevailing opinion tells us.   

I almost always dry hop cold and have never noticed any unwanted vegetal aromas and flavors.  I'll have to try your method on my next IPA and see if I can tell the difference.
I used to dry hop in the keg cold. I don't anymore. I didn't really notice vegetal, grassy favors when doing this at first, but lately it's really come through and I don't like it at all. I noticed it most when using columbus and other C-hops and that's when decided not to do it anymore. Now I will either throw them into the primary after fermentation, or transfer to secondary. In both instances dry hopping is at room temp and I cold crash before kegging.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: American Farmhouse Blend yeast WLP670
« on: August 28, 2011, 02:45:10 PM »
Make your own!

Just buy up a few bottles of farmhouse ales from breweries you like, culture the yeast from the bottle, and add them together in a starter. Every few months, pour off the supernate and feed it a cup or two of fresh wort.

I suggest using Jolly Pumpkin and Lost Abbey (if you can get it).

Making your own "house" strain is a great avenue on so many levels:

1. Its completely unique to your brewery
2. You have an excuse to try several different commerical beers (normally too pricy to buy on a reg basis)
3. You'll have excess culture to "experiment" with... add it to 2nd runnings or a poorly attenuated brew.
It takes a long long time for a yeast strain to mutate and take on different characteristics. If you're looking to take on characteristics of both yeast I believe it's best to culture them separate and add them both to the fermenter. Over several months, one yeast strain will likely out compete the other in the method you described.

Siphon, by mouth :o

Kegging and Bottling / Re: leaking popits...
« on: July 18, 2011, 10:20:05 PM »
What's the advantage to using olive oil or mineral oil over keg lube?

All Grain Brewing / Re: HomeBrewer from Tijuana Mx, already addicted
« on: July 02, 2011, 07:03:08 AM »
Welcome. I like your slippers.

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