So, is there no host hotel information until February 1?
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A lab flask shouldn't be much worry on the stove - this is what they are made for. Hot stove to ice water might be a little too much for it though.Boiling to ice water is of more concern for me too as it would be a real bummer to break a flask and lose a starter. I like to more gradually reduce the glass temperature by holding the flask with a oven mit and running it under hot tap water and gradually reducing the temperature of the flowing water until it's cold. Then I place the flask in a large bowl fill it with cold water. Finally displace the water in the bowl gradually with ice cubes until it's mostly ice. Has worked well for me with no crackage.
I normally allow things to settle out and clear up over time never tried crash cooling.That's what I would do if you're going to bottle. Drew's method is for kegs and calls for racking twice at the end of days 4 & 5. I think the really important point of the article is to select a yeast that will floc out quickly. He recommends Wyeast 1275, and warns against using WLP001, 1056 or US-05. If I were going to try your approach, I would begin by making a starter ASAP, crashing at the end of day 4 and rack/bottle on day 6 to give your bottles as much time as possible to carbonate and clarify.
Is my idea right let the beer ferment out to terminal then put in a cold fridge so the temp drops fast after it clears in the fridge rack to a bottling bucket and bottle. Could I leave it in the same container until bottling?