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Messages - newrocset

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All Grain Brewing / Re: First All Grain Batch
« on: July 31, 2011, 12:06:47 AM »
Glad it went well! See, Wait 'till you start doing 10 gal. batches!  ;D

Anyway, I always stir to cool down, given that I have a tiny immersion chiller...stirring is good, since it helps oxygenate your wort to help your fermetation...don't stir when it's too hot, though, wait for it to cool to about 120.  Stirring at temps above that can cause reactions to occur with the oxygen that can lead to off flavors.
I wouldn't worry too much about kicking up protiens either via stirring.  They will eventually drop out, and you can rack to a 2ndary to get the wort off of 'em....sometimes (and believe me, sometimes!) I let the wort sit for a few hours on brew day, then rack to a 2ndary, and then pitch - it's an effective way to get a cleaner beer, plus you'll be able to get a cleaner bit of yeast if you decide to save it...but usually I just let it sit in the primary from start to finish!

All Grain Brewing / Re: First All Grain Batch
« on: July 02, 2011, 11:33:02 PM »
Sounds like a good brew day to me!

To keep my fermentation temps in check, I use a 20 gallon tub from Lowe's/Home Depot...put the fermenter in there and then add any plastic vessel you can freeze (i.e. plastic soda bottles, water bottles, etc), or those blue ice packs that you can refreeze.  You gotta change your ice out every 12 hours but it works great.

When that fermentation takes off, it's going to heat up a bit, so ice the sh*t out of it before it starts  ;)
Oh, and place a towel under that tub - it sweats a lot.

All Grain Brewing / Re: First All Grain Batch
« on: July 02, 2011, 01:49:54 AM »
I always heat my water at least 20 degrees above my target mash temperature....otherwise your in for a nightmare if your mash is not hot enough.

It is way easier to cool down a 4 gallon mash in a cooler than it is to heat it up....I would heat that water to 174....if it's too hot, just keep stirring your mash, like soup, and expsose it to the air to get it to cool this before using ice cubes or cold might take longer to get your temp down, but at least you'll get it to where you want it...believe me, it's a royal pain to be constantly adding boiling water to a 10 gallon cooler full of mash that wont hit your target temp  ;)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Rubber Gasket in Fermenter
« on: June 19, 2011, 08:20:02 PM »
Thanks for the advice everyone! I figured it would be cool, but just wanted to be sure.  Luckily, I have quite a few rubber gaskets, so I was able to replace it, and now my airlock is rockin'  ;D

Yeast and Fermentation / Rubber Gasket in Fermenter
« on: June 19, 2011, 01:25:57 PM »
I just had the rubber gasket that holds my airlock in place drop into my fermentation bucket.  It apparently sank to the bottom, and I can't fish it out.  :'(

Has this ever happened to anyone else? Do you think it will impart any "rubbery" or "plastic" flavors to my beer?

My ale has just began primary fermentation with a pretty high krausen....Is there any reason NOT to rack into another fermenter at this point?

And while we are on the subject of Krausen....has anybody ever tried carbonating their beer using the krausen method?  Now that I'm using a bucket (rather than Carboy) it would be easy to skim it right off the top.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Aluminum Stock Pot
« on: June 16, 2011, 10:48:01 PM »
I've heard copper and stainless steel are resistant to bacteria and I guess that's why it is a requirement for commercial kitchens and breweries to use stainless.

I'm guessing that would be a basis to support the use of stainless over aluminum. 

Anyway, I've brewed plenty of great beers with the aluminum pot that came with my turkey fryer until I switched to a keggle and  I really don't see a difference in flavor.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: I'm confused
« on: May 10, 2011, 01:51:01 AM »
Curious: is your kegging equipment new or used?  Did you sanitize the kegs themselves before you kegged those first three batches?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Forgot mash-out
« on: May 08, 2011, 11:43:42 PM »
I read that the increase in temp for the mash out is to lower the viscosity of your liquid so you get a better flow during sparge....and this makes sense as it would give a better rinse to your grains.

My keg is in the fridge too.
I have about 6' of 3/16 line to a picnic tap.

Keep in mind this was my first keg ever, but I found that carbing at a pressure 12psi worked fine.
After a while I took it down to around 8-9 psi for a serving pressure and that worked fine.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Newbie Kegging Kwestions
« on: March 22, 2011, 07:16:24 PM »
Somewhat related question to the above:  I moved a lager into the keg this weekend.  It was at 60F when I transferred it.  I sealed it up and put it on the gas at 10 PSI for about 36 hours while it chilled to 38F to make sure it was sealed.  If I take it off the gas for a couple of days will it stay sealed and keep the air out of the keg?  I'm not worried about having it properly carbed at this point.

I would take a sample after the 36 hours and see if it's adequately carbed. If not, then charge it again.  It's supposed to take a week to carb at refrigerator temp, but I'm not specific on whether you need to leave the CO2 on it, or if you can just charge it one time and wait.  My guess though is that you need to charge quite a few times due to CO2 absorption.....I'm taking tschmidlin's advice above and alternating the carbonation on two kegs every 24 hours.

I'm curious to know whether your beer carbed after 36 hours.....I'm going to check my beers on Friday....boy I hope they're carbed  ::)

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Carbonating in a keg
« on: March 18, 2011, 06:43:27 PM »
BYO has a nice article about kegging.

The author states that when using priming sugar he sawed 2 inches off the bottom of his dip tube....sounds like a good idea to keep the sediment down.

I'm new to kegging and haven't tried natural carbonation, but I know a couple people who have had great success at it.

As far as amt. of sugar to use, I always 5 oz. for 4 or more gallons of well attenuated beer and my bottles have always had more than adequate carbonation and never too much (just make sure you have good attenuation or you'll have problems).

As stated above, you can always pull the relief valve if you have to much carbonation, so you could probably get away with slight over-priming to ensure your beer is adequately carbonated.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Newbie Kegging Kwestions
« on: March 18, 2011, 06:35:59 PM »
I'm new to kegging myself and here's my question:

Can I:

Carbonate my keg to 12psi at fridge temp, unhook the CO2 and let it carb?

or do I have to:

Dial up regulator to 12psi and leave keg in fridge with CO2 hooked up at 12psi and wait for a week to for it to absorb all the CO2


Will it work if I charge my keg every other day at 12psi for a week? - I have 2 different kegs in my fridge right now and only one tank (no splitter) and I want both of these beers ready in a week or so.

Thanks!   ;)

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