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Messages - ukolowiczd

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Beer Recipes / Re: Suggestions for Saison
« on: July 18, 2012, 02:20:49 AM »
Although I love the super fruitiness of the Belgian (DuPont) strain, it is a big pain in the butt. It is sllllooooowwwww. I just made a French Saison and that stuff finished at 1.006 in 5 days! It's definitely not as fruity but it's subtlety just as great (not to mention it's power).

Equipment and Software / Re: Conical Fermenters
« on: July 15, 2012, 04:08:58 PM »
I have 5 of these [url][/url outfitted with racking arms and valves in the bottom.  They work great and fit perfectly in a medium size cabinet (upright) freezer.  Great for cold crashing and lagering.

Where did you get your racking arm and valves? Were they weldless so you just had to tighten them with a gasket? Did you just drill holes? Any info/pics would be great. I've always wanted a conical but the $700+ price tag has kept me at bay. This seems like a cheaper option.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: How much table sugar per 5 gals?
« on: July 08, 2012, 06:25:27 PM »
You know I used to add half the bottling sugar which was recommended by my homebrew shop (i.e. 3/8cup or ~2oz.) but I never got the carbonation I wanted. So I went back to adding the full 3/4 cup (~4oz) of corn sugar and have never looked back. My carbonation has been great.

Ingredients / Re: Carbon filtered water
« on: July 08, 2012, 02:20:06 PM »
When weighing the brew salts, do you need a scale?  Or can you, say, convert grams into ounces, and then ounces into teaspoons?  I guess each salt has a different weight, but I wonder if being that precise would matter?

Someone just blogged me this website: It's John Palmer's "How to Brew" site and it gives grams to teaspoon conversions for all the salts but table salt (NaCl). For that one, i'd just mass up 10 grams, measure it with teaspoons and divide.

I like to "make" certain waters by adding the salts to all of my pre-boil water that is low in salts (i.e. mash and sparge water). When using a salt table like in "Designing Great Beers" by Ray Daniels, would I look at the 5 gallon concentrations or the 10 gallon concentrations? I would assume the 10 gallon concentrations since I'm using approximately that much in my total water bill. My calculations for the high end concentrations of 150-250ppm for darker beers have me adding 10-14 grams (2.5 - 3.5 tsp) of salt per 10 gallon. Does this sound right?

Equipment and Software / Re: Hop spider design
« on: July 06, 2012, 05:11:07 PM »
I used one once and noticed that too - decrease in hop utilization. Of course disclaimer here my brewing partner made it and had three aluminum legs that went down into the kettle. It was more like a hop crab. We never really got the boil where we wanted it and our FG suffered a lot 1.036!

not sure why your fg suffered from this unless you are suggesting there was not the expected boil off/concentration?

do many of you use a spider, hop bag?  i usually just throw them in the boil, but i am not pumping my wort yet and just pour it through a strainer

Sorry, yes misspoke. Our OG wasn't that high and we had a lot of wort due to the minimal boil. (We also mashed around 158F and added lactose and believe that we had way too many dextrins thus the high FG).

Beer Recipes / Re: which puree for a *fruit* pale ale on brett?
« on: July 03, 2012, 05:29:51 PM »
Brett l. Is the pie cherry one while b. is horseblanket via wyeast website but I was shocked at the different characteristics I got with l. I did a simple Belgian pale with 100% Brett l and was ridiculously subtle.mi had toned the hops down to 10 ibu b/c I didn't want it to out shine the yeast but now I wish I had hopped it up a bit. My second throw of the Brett l. was a light golden wort and then put on raspberries for 3 months. It's still mellowing but man it's completely different. I know the raspberries obviously add to the tartness but pie cherries like crazy in this one and fuuuunky. Finally I inoculated a 3 gal barrel with Brett c. And did a dark Saison - stinky but no funky taste.nthen inoculated with Brett l. too and put a prefermented Scottish on top. It was awesome. I really think I prefer the Brett character as a side note rather than 100% but man can you get some interesting flavors!

Equipment and Software / Re: Hop spider design
« on: July 03, 2012, 05:18:05 PM »
Yeah I'd like to re test my spider as like I said I think it was the aluminum bars and decreased boil that was the issue and not the bag. Just haven't gotten around to it. Sounds like I'm inspired now!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dealing with trub
« on: July 03, 2012, 05:14:39 PM »
Yeah you know I've tried everything including pulling out wort with sanitized measuring cup and pouring over a paint strainer like fabric that will catch all pellet hops and most trub. We call them "grannies panties" b/c of the resulting sludge and having to constantly clean off the "panties" which is super obnoxious and borderline sanitary (hope that's appropriate for this blog). Lately we've given up on grannies, done a little whirlpool, let settle and just drain it out, sometimes with a lot of trub. My point is that I haven't tasted any difference especially in future use of the yeast cake. I think a fancy hop filter like is maybe the only way to insure trub removal.

Equipment and Software / Re: Hop spider design
« on: July 03, 2012, 05:02:14 PM »
I used one once and noticed that too - decrease in hop utilization. Of course disclaimer here my brewing partner made it and had three aluminum legs that went down into the kettle. It was more like a hop crab. We never really got the boil where we wanted it and our FG suffered a lot 1.036!

Equipment and Software / Re: Aeration? How important is the method?
« on: June 29, 2012, 01:20:31 AM »
O2 all the way. I bought mine and yeast starts activity in less than 4 hrs. And that whole "don't use too much" is fiction. I left pure O2 on once for 3 min by mistake and other than awesome fermentation (and some obvious wort overflow) there were no off favors what so ever. I think over oxygenation only happens with the big boys.

42 fermenters make exactly what you're talking about. Not sure what liquid they use to chill them. Here's the link. Maybe calling them and asking how they use them.

Pimp My System / Re: My Brutus System
« on: May 11, 2012, 07:45:33 PM »
If you wouldn't mind could you give some more specifics? Like:
Did you use the "Brutus 10 build" book or get instructions on line (if so where)?
Where'd you get your keggles? Make them?
What kind of control box is that? Make it? Buy it? Where?
What kind and where'd you buy those electric heater element thingies for the HLT and mash tun?

So this means I should change it from cut in to cut out? What is it doing when it's in cut in?

You don't have to. All the modes work. Cut in and cut out refer to when the thermostat turns the circuit (and hence your fermwrap) on or off, and the combination of that and heating or cooling mode, the differential, and the temperature you set, define what happens.

Let's make it simple by focusing on your situation.

You're using a FermWrap, which is a heater, so I assume your environment is cold — either a basement or a fridge — and you want to heat your beer to be close to the desired temperature, so you want to use the controller in heating mode as you've said you have it.

You also said you've got yours set to "cut in."

What that means is that the thermostat will cut in — turn on the heater in this case — when it reaches the temperature you've set. When it cuts in, it is going to start heating and then the controller will cut out at the set temperature plus the differential. So in your example of wanting to get 74-76 degrees, and your controller in cut in mode and heating mode, you would set the thermostat for 74 degrees and the differential for 2 degrees. That way, if the temperature fell below 74 degrees (the set temperature), the heater would "cut in" and heat the wort until it rose 2 degrees (the differential) and would cut back out at 76 degrees.

I guess what I'm saying is you're fine how you are. If you're in heating mode and cut in mode, set the temperature to the lowest acceptable temperature and set the differential so that the set temperature plus the differential is your highest acceptable temperature.

I hope this helps.

That makes total sense. It's been working great. Using it to bring up a saison temp into the 80's in the house so it doesn't have far to go. Thanks!

Zymurgy / Re: Why should I renew my subscription?
« on: April 28, 2012, 02:12:37 PM »
I was only a member for a year but I didn't see any benefits either. I like BYO right now better than zymurgy and if I want a copy can get it at my local homebrew store. I don't get any pub discounts in VT and I've never gone to an AHA rally or their competition (thought about this past year but after 2 days it was full.) Not sure what else it's for. Honestly I get most of my knowledge from this forum which I guess is paid for through AHA membership but I figure buying a Zymurgy every now and again covers it.

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