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Messages - ukolowiczd

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46
Hey ukolowiczd,

I use the same setup in my cellar. Here's what I do.

The Johnson is in heating mode. The set point is the “cut out” temperature, and the differential is set to 2 °F. This means, since the cellar is cold, that the temperature of the beer falls until it is 2 °F below the set point. Then the thermostat turns the heater on until it reaches the set point. That means that the beer will ferment at 66 ± 1 °F if I set the controller for 67 °F.

Does that help?

Yes. So this means I should change it from cut in to cut out? What is it doing when it's in cut in?

47
All Grain Brewing / Re: New to all grain. Need help with set up
« on: April 27, 2012, 02:48:46 PM »
I love this mash tun from homebrewstuff.com. It's 15 gal but they make them in 5 and 10. It's got these snap and fit system that is so easy. I get 85% efficiency with it too. Btw I don't work for them; I just think this works better than my homemade tun and a steel one I have.

http://www.homebrewstuff.com/brewing-equipment-1/cooler-conversion-kits-and-parts/mash-tuns-and-kits-converted-coolers/15-gallon-mash-tun-w-hlt-kit.html

48
No one has experience with this? Help me Obi-wan; you're my only hope...

49
I wrapped two saisons with FermWrap heaters and plugged them into the Johnson Dig. Controller only to realize that I'm not an electrician and could not understand the directions. Any help would be great as I can only find how to use these things in a refrigerator and they are NOT in a fridge as I want to heat them eventually to 80F.

I managed to move the little plastic thingy inside to close the connection for "heating" and changed the differential to 1 degree, but I still don't get the "Cut in" and "Cut out". I want it to read let's say 75F with a differential of 1 thus 74-76F. Currently I have it on "Cut in" but I don't understand why nor why I would change it to "Cut out". Any one have experience with this?

50
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Burn(er)ing Question
« on: April 25, 2012, 06:52:52 AM »
I was using that Banjo burner but just purchased the Blichmann burner. I don't have any quantitative data as of yet but it sure seems to boil faster and it is supposed to use less gas. I have actually boiled by mistake my first two strike waters b/c I'm used to it taking longer. It is way, way quieter, with more jets (thus the quicker boil times). And I'm pretty sure I could fire a bazooka at it and it would withstand the blast. That or use it in a weight lifting program. It is solid and seems like it will last forever. I can't say any of this for my Banjo (actually have to replace the burner part of it soon - rusty). 

51
As a teacher, I have next week off (sorry), so I'm making Elderflower Sour Saison and an all Citra IPA. The Saison for my mom's 70th B-day party and the Citra for my brother-in-laws bachelor party. Don't ya just love celebrations (i.e. a reason to make more and more beer)?

52
All Grain Brewing / Re: Single-Malt beers
« on: April 18, 2012, 02:34:46 PM »
I kind of think these are silly, but for a different reason than a lot of others.

To me, a single malt beer is a regular thing.  My Pils is 100% Pilsner Malt, my British Summer Ale is 100% Maris Otter, and I make a Dunkel that is 100% Weyermann Dark Munich.

They are all delicious, interesting beers, not novelties.

I agree. I make "single-malt" beers all the time - Kolsch, Pilsner, Saison. I mean wasn't this the way beer was made before specialty malts anyways? (of course most of the malt was probably burned and brown ;))

53
Kegging and Bottling / Re: 3/8 cup vs. 3/4 cup for kegging?
« on: April 08, 2012, 08:02:07 AM »
I have not primed a keg yet, generally I go with Sean T's method of set to serving and shake. However I always assumed that the reduced amount of priming sugar had to do with the reduced headspace per ounce. The volume of headspace in a 12 oz bottle divided by 12 is greater than that in a keg divided by... 640? But that's just an assumption I came up with to justify what Charlie P says in the book.

right, that sounds like an actual mathematical answer! The head space per capita is actually greater in the bottle than the keg (if filled all the way). That would mean that you need more sugar to carb in bottles b/c more CO2 is let out of the solution into the head space. hmmmm, can anyone do the actual math to prove this?

54
Kegging and Bottling / Re: 3/8 cup vs. 3/4 cup for kegging?
« on: April 07, 2012, 04:21:07 PM »
You shouldn't measure but weigh your priming sugar. If you use 3-4 oz per 5 gallons it should prime up perfectly for normal volumes such as 2.2-2.5 depending.

Sometimes I prime my kegs with sugar and push with the tank.

I do weigh my priming sugar. I was just using the 3/8 and 3/4 as points of reference so as to not confuse and get specific with oz.'s of sugar.

55
Kegging and Bottling / Re: 3/8 cup vs. 3/4 cup for kegging?
« on: April 07, 2012, 01:56:35 PM »
Set at serving temp and forget.  Unless I'm in a hurry then I'll set it at serving temp and shake.

Do you mean set at serving psi? Serving temp? I don't understand.

56
Kegging and Bottling / Re: 3/8 cup vs. 3/4 cup for kegging?
« on: April 07, 2012, 01:55:47 PM »
Serving pressure and shaking. No need to wait.
You mean you set it around 12psi and then shake it? For 20 minutes or so?

57
I added a poll about how people mainly carb their kegs.

58
Kegging and Bottling / 3/8 cup vs. 3/4 cup for kegging?
« on: April 07, 2012, 09:28:44 AM »
Can anyone explain why the rule of thumb for adding corn sugar in kegging is 1/2 of the norm (i.e. 3/8 cup vs. 3/4 cup)? I've just been adding the 3/4 cup in my kegs and am carbing fine. I'm worried that the 3/8 cup would be too little and I'd end up having to force carb a bit.

59
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerate Starter?
« on: April 06, 2012, 04:23:27 PM »
I use the same O2 stone aeration from Williams and I aerate my starter. Why not? O2 is O2. May as well give it a boost.

60
All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch sparging specifics
« on: April 06, 2012, 12:51:43 PM »
Ok, well I think I'll stick with the add 1/2 water, drain, add 1/2 sparge water, drain, done method.

BTW I am able to calculate how much boiling water to add to get my 152F mash up to 168F; I just said 2/3 and 1/3 to keep it approximate and easy. (You just use a step mash calculator and knowing my total water used, keep tweaking the numbers until I get the total amount).

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