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Messages - michaeltrego

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16
Ingredients / Re: Single hopped beer tasting notes - 2013 edition
« on: August 10, 2013, 07:19:02 AM »
Apollo would be killer in any APA or IPA. I bet it would go real nice paired with some EKG's in an English IPA as well.

Nice experiment - great information - thanks!  I was originally planning to use a little Amarillo to augment the Willamette/Golding in my upcoming English IPA, but now I might consider Apollo.  I grabbed a pound of it in the last HopsDirect sale for some Topper-inspired DIPAs.

17
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge water dilution ? Lactic %88
« on: July 19, 2013, 10:53:22 AM »
+1 Bru'n Water

To reduce from 7.2 pH to 5.5 pH would take 0.09 ml/gal of 88% Lactic acid.

It's going to depend on the amount of alkalinity more than the starting pH.  In BrunWater, I put in 215 ppm for alkalinity in the sparge water acidification tab (263*50/61 to convert from bicarbonate ppm, according to Palmer).  For a desired water pH of 5.5, it calculates 1.21 ml / gal of 88% lactic acid.

You can also do this in Kai's water calculator; just set the sparge water volume to the desired amount of water to treat and scroll down to the "sparge water acidification" section.

You're right - I overlooked that point.  My alkalinity is low, so it requires less adjustment.  Thanks for clarifying.

18
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge water dilution ? Lactic %88
« on: July 19, 2013, 08:51:30 AM »
+1 Bru'n Water

To reduce from 7.2 pH to 5.5 pH would take 0.09 ml/gal of 88% Lactic acid.

19
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: not all RO water created equally
« on: May 15, 2013, 12:58:40 PM »
Realized this weekend that not all RO water fits the profile in brunwater.

At the bottom of the water adjustment sheet you can modify the values of the built in RO profile to match your RO water, no?

My RO water came back from Wardlabs as:
pH 7.8, TDS 26, Ca <1, Mg <1, Na 6, SO4-S <1, Cl 7, Bicarbonate 3, Alkalinity 3


20
Going Pro / Re: Guide to Starting Your Own Brewery (2nd Edition)
« on: May 09, 2013, 06:25:15 AM »
I'm not planning buy this book from any retailer at the moment so the price difference doesn't bother me in any way. 

That said, the dues we pay to the AHA are used for far more than discounts on books.  I pay my dues because doing so supports a team of people who have our backs as home brewers.  Without them many of us would be brewing illegally in our home state.  We would not have access to the resources we currently do to improve our craft.  The book discounts are nice but not the reason we all joined the AHA.  Please keep in mind that in the grand scheme of things the AHA is a tiny organization with limited resources doing a very good job on executing on their charter.

Paul

+1...agree with all of your points! 

21
Going Pro / Re: Guide to Starting Your Own Brewery (2nd Edition)
« on: May 09, 2013, 05:28:12 AM »
I was curious and asked the AHA the same question when the IPA book was pre-released at a 46% discount on B&N vs. 40% discount at AHA.  They responded that they have no control over those retailer's prices.  And they pointed out that the AHA ships the book 4-5 weeks before other retailers.  Thus giving members the first opportunity to read the book.  So the decision becomes how much do you value the exclusivity and the support of the AHA.  I bought the IPA book from the AHA since the price difference was literally only a few dollars and it felt like the right thing to do.

I think the real question is why this pre-release is only a 25% discount vs. 40% discount we have see on the last several books.  That makes the gap between the AHA's 25% and the retailers 43% a lot harder to justify.

22
Equipment and Software / Re: March Pump Heads
« on: April 24, 2013, 10:58:21 AM »
AFAIAC, the gold standard is the March 809 HS.  Although there's another version with a larger impeller that's probably even better.  I intend to upgrade the impeller in my 809.

The March 809 impeller upgrade to the 815 makes a huge difference in priming and volume flow.  Worth every penny.  Here is where I found it:  http://www.tescopumps.com/servlet/the-582/0809-dsh-0027-dsh-1000-0809-dsh-0107-dsh-0200-0809-dsh-0043-dsh-1000/Detail

23
Beer Recipes / Re: Hopping a Kolsch
« on: April 18, 2013, 11:23:52 AM »
I just kegged a Kolsch last week.  This time I used Crystal instead of Hallertau, and I went with 24 IBU total as well:

FWH Crystal 5 IBU
60 Min Crystal 14 IBU
10 Min Tettnang 5 IBU

24
Ingredients / Re: Water Check - not Happy with "Pale Ale" profile
« on: December 21, 2012, 10:03:34 AM »
I would go with only 5g gypsum and 2.5g CaCl.  I once attempted to augment the Mg in my soft water with Epsom and didn't like the resulting taste.  So I don't worry about Mg anymore.  Per Martin: "A typical barley or wheat mash grist should contribute more than 5 ppm magnesium to the wort for proper yeast flocculation so it should not be necessary to add magnesium to brewing water unless desired for its flavor effects. "

25
Beer Recipes / Re: West Coast Winter Ale (Winter IPA?)
« on: December 12, 2012, 02:38:32 PM »
I had a few of the same thoughts as I brewed my Winter IPA last month 1.070 / 77 IBU:

75% Canadian 2-row
10% Munich Dark (8L)
6% Crystal 40
6% Carapils
2% Victory
1% Roasted to bring color up to 14 SRM

12 IBU Chinook - FWH
36 IBU Chinook - 60 min
13 IBU Cascade - 30 min
13 IBU Cascade & Columbus - 15 min
3 IBU Cascade (60%), Columbus (25%), Chinook (15%) - Whirlpool
Dryhop Cascade (40%), Amarillo/Columbus/Chinook (20% each) - two charges for 4 days each

26
Equipment and Software / Re: Thermometers
« on: December 01, 2012, 11:09:33 AM »
Thermoworks also sells a type-k thermocouple version, which can accept various probes including a waterproof wire probe.  I use this and leave it in the mash tun and HLT for getting a constant read on temperature.

http://thermoworks.com/products/handheld/therma_k.html

Wire probe (model 113-372): http://thermoworks.com/products/probe/tc_wire.html

Ditto - love my MTC with long 372 probe - very versatile!

27
Ingredients / Re: Belma Hops?!?!?
« on: October 07, 2012, 07:16:42 AM »
Now if I can just find a source for Meridian and Mosaic this season...

For Meridian try Ted Hausotter at Hop Heaven in Baker City, OR.

28
How long do you pump O2 in the headspace to estimate that all the air has been pushed out?  I think I'll try this on my next batch, but will pitch the yeast in before shaking to avoid the foam issue.

No exact science here. I just blow a 2-3 s shot of O2 from the O2 regulator into the wort.

But I just thought of something I might try next time:

Use a hose to blow the O2 under the wort surface. This should create foam. Once the foam reaches the carboy neck the the air has been purged out and I'll close the carboy and start shaking. The O2 dissolved in the wort should depend on the head space to wort volume ratio and the wort temp. I'm using 5 gal carboys, so this may not be as practical for 6 gal carboys due to the larger head space and possible over-oxygenation.

Kai

Sounds like a good option - thanks Kai

29
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: New Wort over an active yeast cake
« on: August 22, 2012, 08:52:47 AM »
My own experience is that I far prefer the results from using only part of a yeast slurry over using the whole thing in most circumstances.  I split the slurry into 2 or 3 containers when I save it.  The only time I use the whole thing is when I make an extremely high OG beer, say over 1.090.

Denny - I haven't pitched on a cake before, but I plan to use a 1.057 ESB cake for a 1.100 Barleywine soon.  Based on other things I've read, I was thinking of only using half the cake to avoid overpitching and massive blowoff.  So do you think using the whole cake is the best plan?

In this case, yeah, I'd use the whole thing.  One of the few times I do it that way.

ETA:  I could be wrong....;)

OK - thanks, I'll give it a shot!

30
What I found to work well for aeration is to shoot O2 into the headspace of the carboy, close and shake. I can easily get to 8 ppm O2 with this method. Another shot and I can get to 10-12 ppm. I found that more repeatable than the O2 stone. But the problem is that it foams a lot and that foam makes adding yeast suspended in 1-2 l wort difficult.

Kai

How long do you pump O2 in the headspace to estimate that all the air has been pushed out?  I think I'll try this on my next batch, but will pitch the yeast in before shaking to avoid the foam issue.

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