Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - thcipriani

Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10 11
106
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast Greenbelt
« on: November 14, 2010, 08:24:51 PM »
The only person whom I've been able to find that's ever used this yeast is the AHB rep on the HBT forum. I'm sure anyone remotely interested saw this already:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f41/new-yeast-strain-wyeast-194729/

107
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast Greenbelt
« on: November 11, 2010, 09:24:27 PM »
For what it's worth, I don't feel a "yawn factor" on this subject. I'd be very interested in this yeast. I sincerely doubt that this yeast is Ballintine's but I think that this yeast may be something worth exploring. Please, anyone with experience chime in (this is a bad sentence since it end with a preposition)! I plan on trying a double IPA with this yeast...not that DIPA is actually on my list - I'd just like to try a new yeast.

108
Equipment and Software / Re: Therminator Pellet Hops
« on: November 11, 2010, 09:10:24 PM »
I'd really like to like the therminator and other plate chillers; however, the idea of having a clogged $200 piece of equipment just worries me too much. I think I'm going with the Heart's Homebrew Super Chiller just because it seems to fit better with the way in which I currently brew. I currently use the "Jamil-o-Chiller" method and it works OK but I'm stuck in an apartment and they shut off the outside water in the winter (sensibly) and I need a method that will use the least amount of water possible since I'm going to have to haul the chill water down 8 flights. Also, before anyone who is a thermodynamics expert chimes in, I realize that the heating of water will absorb the same amount of heat energy no matter what chilling method I use but recirculating luke warm water doesn't seem as adequate a chilling method as CFC the same amount of ice water. Obviously, I have a friend who knows thermodynamics and admonished me for thinking of buying a plate or counterflow chiller.

109
Equipment and Software / Therminator Pellet Hops
« on: November 11, 2010, 02:58:19 PM »
I'm kind of itching to get a therminator, but before I drop $200 on one I'd like to know if it's going to clog with loose pellet hops - does anyone have experience using the therminator with loose pellet hops?

I use all loose pellet hops in my kettle and if that's going to clog the therminator then I won't get one.

Thanks all!

110
Quote
Shouldn't the trub provide some nice lipids for the yeast?

My understanding is that while lipids are essential for yeast growth an excess of lipids means that the level of Acetyl-CoA will not be reduced by the yeast to form sterols meaning a higher acid content which means that there is more acid available for the production of esters.

This theory was verified by the experiments at New Belgium brewery where they added olive oil instead of oxygen to their yeast - thereby providing lipids to the yeast directly and not relying on the yeast to produce them using O2 and Acetyl-CoA...and other stuff...probably...see text here:

http://brewcrazy.com/hull-olive-oil-thesis.pdf

Further, excess lipids (according to Fix - and I don't remember the science on this one and I'm just too lazy to look it up) can lead to premature beer staling.

That being said, I agree with everyone else in this thread - as long as the beer was brewed well the difference between this beer and one where there is no trub will be negligible.

111
Ingredients / Re: Chloride Sulfate Ratio
« on: November 03, 2010, 09:12:51 PM »
Quote
As a random datapoint, the most decorated brewery at the 2010 GABF adjust their water to have 100 ppm each chloride and sulfate. I don't find this company's (Firestone Walker's) beers to be particularly minerally which is not surprising as the absolute levels of sulfate and carbonate are low compared to Dortmund.

I thought that they adjusted to 100ppm hardness as CaCO3 using CaCl2.H20 and CaSO4...or maybe it was 100ppm Ca++...or maybe I have no idea...

112
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Over spiced pumpkin porter
« on: October 26, 2010, 11:52:52 PM »
I'd say that you've learned something and take that for what it's worth - almost nobody hits things exactly right their first time. If I had any advice to offer I'd say make a spice tea and blend back after ferment - you'll have much more control over the outcome of your beer.

113
Other Fermentables / Re: Mead and Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)
« on: October 26, 2010, 11:48:13 PM »
I have lab-bench experience in the sense that I was the TA who set up experiments in HS and college - so really I don't have any experience outside of a lab. Do you have any sources from pre-made 1Normal Solutions?

114
The Pub / Re: Best Apps for iPod?
« on: October 26, 2010, 11:45:05 PM »
Well, if you jailbreak, installous is, by far, the best "app" - beeralchemy is way better than Beer Smith or ProMash IMO - I use it when I'm stuck away from a comp and I need some quick beer math.

115
Beer Recipes / Re: strong belgian christmas ale
« on: October 21, 2010, 07:52:47 PM »
I've been rummaging around for some Christmas ale ideas myself; fortunately, there's a sub-chapter on Christmas beer in Radical Brewing. The only beer I see with Ginger is the "Fruitcake Old Ale" which uses .25tsp nutmeg, allspice; 2.0 tsp Ceylon cinnamon; 1 tsp powdered ginger and vanilla extract. I think the real key there would be finding a good source of ceylon cinnamon - if you've got a Penzey's in your backyard (like I do...) then you're very lucky.

One thing I've learned is that my making a strong spice tea post ferment you give yourself a lot of control and you're much more likely to get an untested recipe right on the first try. Food for thought.

Also, minor aside, one interesting idea from that book is a fortified Christmas ale - using creme de cacao and orange curacao - might be amazing(?).

116
All Grain Brewing / Re: Green Flash IPA Recipe Wanted
« on: October 21, 2010, 07:39:30 PM »
Here's Saco De Toro's Green Flash Imperial Recipe:
http://forums.morebeer.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=20479&p=215612

I'd really like to like summit, but right now the only beer that uses it (that I'm aware of) that I really enjoy is the Oskar Blues Gubna. I plan to give it another shot someday...maybe...

117
Ingredients / Re: Where to buy/order chocolate/cacao nibs from
« on: October 11, 2010, 07:07:43 PM »
I've seen them at Whole Foods from.

118
Ingredients / Re: Water help needed...RA=450
« on: October 11, 2010, 07:00:27 PM »
If I were doing this recipe, I'd probably hold off on all additions that were meant to balance pH until you've measured something outside the range that you're targeting.

Anecdotal evidence: Two weeks ago I brewed a Am. Amber ale with an SRM of 16 with water with an RA in the -60 range (for some reason) but I ended up with an initial mash pH of 5.11 which I adjusted with Calcium Hydroxide (pickling lime) up to 5.2. This past weekend I brewed a Belgian Dubbel with an estimated SRM of 27 (this is all estimated with Morey, by the way) with water that had an RA of -30 and hit a mash pH of 5.25.

My point is that it's too hard to guess - and also my point is the you should get some pickling lime because chalk never did a darn thing for me - strong bases, like hydroxide, are where it's at.

119
All Grain Brewing / Re: First all grain batch
« on: October 08, 2010, 03:44:49 PM »
Personally, I think that recipe looks great. It seems like a very authentic example of Fullers. I don't know if you've ever read the blog, "Shut up about Barclay Perkins" but they have some really great info on authentic ales complete with recipes pulled from old brewers log books. Here's the post relevant to the style you're brewing:

http://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2009/07/lets-brew-wednesday-fullers-1962-elp-lp.html

You should probably abstain from trying the parti-gyle right out of the gate, though. ;)

My only tips for your first all grain ESB are:
1.) Source high-quality ingredients - high quality ingredients don't really make a huge difference for new all-grain brewers, but you can only brew a beer as good as your ingredients so now is time to start learning where you can source this stuff.

2.) Take notes on as many data points as possible. Everything that is within your ability to measure, write it down somewhere. I typically sit down with my promash recipe and my handwritten notes and transfer everything to the notes section of the promash recipe as soon as possible during, or shortly, after brew day. This way I can see what I did to make good beer. This is especially true when you first begin all grain brewing. The actual temp of your mash vs the temp that promash quotes will give you a good idea of the thermal mass of your mash tun. The actual measure dead space in all of your brewing equipment.

3.) Don't start F'ing with your water until you've noticed something is wrong with your beer and you've ruled out every possibility, or until you get a way to measure your pH and have decided it'd be fun to play with water. You will not want to start playing with water until you get a few all-grain batches under your belt.

4.) All the good sanitation practices and pitching rate practices that you've, no doubt, developed must continue to develop and improve. Going all grain does not give you a ticket to be lax about any practices you've already mastered.

5.) This is something that happens naturally and it is the reason that there is a positive correlation for the frequency with which you brew and beer quality - make mental notes of parts of your process that need improvement. At first, these mental notes will include where you set up your equipment, how you take a mash gravity reading, how to setup all your tubing to ensure it doesn't leak - all the little things that you could not anticipate prior to brewing. Being a great all-grain brewer is definitely dependent on a lot of big things, but what no one ever mentions is that there are a ton of little things that experienced all-grain brewers just know about their system that comes from their experience. If you move, if you take a 6 month hiatus, if you loose the shim that balances out one of your burners you will not be making the same quality of beer as you were making before that event occurred.

My first all-grain brew day was a death by a thousand cuts and I was just lucky it made beer. It didn't seem that way at the time, but knowing what I know now I marvel that what I made when I first began all-grain was even drinkable, let alone as good as I remember it. The main thing is that no matter how bad or good your brew day is you'll be changing a massive amount of process very soon based on your observations.


120
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash ppm in = Mash ppm out?
« on: October 04, 2010, 07:06:30 PM »
According to Fix in Principals of Brewing Science, "There is of course no direct correlation between finished-beer mineral levels and the mineral content of brewing liquor" (Fix 15).

This quote also makes sense a posteriori - when you think of the variability that minor and major mash parameters have on pH and gravity it makes sense that there would not be any adequate way to predict the expected mineral content of your mash runnings or the final mineral content of beer. Things like mash thickness, grist composition, pH and various buffering systems would make this a nearly impossible calculation.

Interestingly, while the conversation in this thread has been about the minerals that are lost in the malt and not about the minerals that malt contribute to the beer. I ran across an article abstract in the American Society of Brewing Chemist Journal about malt modification, mashing parameters and their affect on the mineral composition of wort might be of some interest:
http://www.asbcnet.org/journal/abstracts/backissues/35-01.htm

Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10 11