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Messages - kramerog

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1
It is known that shear, e.g. from stirring, can damage yeast.  The success of the shaken not stirred method suggests that stirring is no big deal in practice.

2
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Under pitching and then Re Pitching
« on: August 25, 2016, 11:21:59 PM »
Most of the flavor is created early in the fermentation so you could pitch the WLP380 when the beer is at high krausen.  Alternatively, you could hold off until the Wyeast 3068 is finished and see how the beer tastes.  If you detect diacetyl you would then make a 1 gal batch of beer and pitch the Wyeast 3068 into it and then mix the 1-gal batch with the original batch at high krausen.  I don't have enough experience with hefeweizen to recommend one approach vs the other.  I don't have experience with the SNS starter method either.

3
All Grain Brewing / Re: Step Mash Batch Sparging?
« on: August 25, 2016, 09:28:52 AM »
Your thinking is sound.  Below is how I would do it, YMMV.

I like to sparge with just what I think I need using a 1 qt/lb absorption factor and later adding water to the boil kettle if it looks like I'm going to be short of my target (which generally isn't necessary). 

Using more water than necessary for the sparge water tends to lower efficiency particularly when the sparge volume is so low.  However, some of what I do has more to do with my process or brewing habits, i.e., I generally don't measure preboil volume. 

4
Equipment and Software / Re: Fermenter Recommendations
« on: August 24, 2016, 01:15:14 PM »
Buckets ... take up less room to store.

Denny, I assume that you nest your buckets for storage.  Do you do anything to prevent a nested bucket from scratching the interior of the other bucket  I try to avoid nesting to avoid scratches which give a place for bacteria to hide.

5
The water batch technique works better with steaks and firm items.  If you are dealing with whole hops you have to manually compress the hops to get the most air out.

6
Equipment and Software / Re: Brewing Thermometer
« on: August 22, 2016, 07:26:25 AM »
The mash tun is my biggest problem I'm trying to figure out. With chef Alarm you won't want to screw lid tight will damage probe cable. So is at is important to measure mash temp constantly or just initially if you have good idea how much temp it will drop in a hour with understanding little different with amount of grains and water. I'm just struggling what is going to be best for me to use for mash water Sparge water and mash tun all in one.

You haven't said what you mash tun is.  If it is a cooler, it is suficient to measure it at the start of the mash because the temperature typically does not change much.  I typically use a Thermapen for this.

For my hot liquor tank, I use a Thermoworks DOT with a waterproof cable.  I need an alarm for that to make sure that I don't overshoot the desired temp.  I also have a Blichmann dial thermometer which will match the DOT once I stir the water in the HLT.  To hit my mash temp, I have to get the water in my HLT to the right temp.  For sparge water, temp target is very wide.

7
Beer Recipes / Re: wet hop ale - why not boil wet hops?
« on: August 22, 2016, 07:11:03 AM »
Wet hops for bittering have no advantage over dry hops.  Wet hops for flavor theoretically is advantageous over dry hops because dry hops lose some oil during drying.

8
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Beergas question
« on: August 19, 2016, 07:06:54 AM »
Assuming that you aren't planning on serving predominantly British/Irish styles, i.e., styles of beer that tend to be served on the flat side, I would swap the beergas for CO2.  Adapters can be had if the regulator does not fit your CO2 cylinder:  http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulators/adapter.shtml

9
All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'nWater Pale Ale Profile?
« on: August 18, 2016, 11:25:36 AM »
I think you can safely ignore the bicarbonate number.   Hitting mash pH is much more important.  300 ppm sulfate is appropriate, not mandatory, in hoppy pale beers.

10
All Grain Brewing / Re: Beer recipe that ferments at room temp
« on: August 17, 2016, 10:01:59 AM »
IPA with a clean yeast like US-05 if room temp is low 70s or less.  Do a water bath to prevent a temperature spike during fermentation.

11
All Grain Brewing / Re: Resume boil a week later
« on: August 16, 2016, 02:24:41 PM »
You could have picked up an infection...
Of botulism spores. I wouldn't use it. Maybe if it had been hot packed similar to no-chill brewing, but I wouldn't trust it.

Botulism only grows anaerobically.  Do you have any reason to believe that the wort was anaerobic?

12
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: That's a lotta salt!
« on: August 13, 2016, 09:59:27 AM »
That seems like a lot of salt. I made a Gose with 10 g of salt/5 gal. The Gose was pleasantly salty.  Not sure what 1 tsp of salt weighs, perhaps 7 grams. Salt in a non-sour should be less salty then in a sour; still 1 tsp seems like a lot.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


13
Ingredients / Re: molasses and fermentability
« on: August 12, 2016, 02:04:45 PM »
Blackstrap molasses is less fermentable than sugar because of its mineral content.  I'm not sure what molasses you are using.  I would assume that the lighter grades of molasses are nearly as fermentable as sugar.  My 2 cents.

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Location of Grain Storage
« on: August 04, 2016, 10:43:44 AM »
I haven't had issues with brewing and milling in same room.  I do not do both, particularly the cooling of wort,  simultaneously which is not necessarily the case for commercial breweries.

15
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Adding fruit to sour
« on: August 03, 2016, 07:51:04 PM »
I put fruit in my keg and left it until the keg kicked about 6 months later.  The keg was generally in the fridge at 45F but spent considerable time outside the fridge at temps of 50-60 F.

I think the biggest risk to adding fruit to a sour is mold, which can be prevented by keeping air out of the vessel.

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