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Messages - kramerog

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1
Beer Recipes / Re: Dark ESB
« on: September 29, 2016, 04:02:51 PM »
Where are you located? Once dechlorinated your water might be good as is.
About the only thing I do to my water is make sure there's no chlorine, although I do mix in some distilled water when I brew a Czech pils.
Im in Jax FL, which the water where I live is not good for brewing. it is SUPER SUPER hard. Like 400+ in my area. Other places around jax are OK for brewing from what I have heard.

The use of regional water profiles as a target is largely outdated.  In a nutshell, you want enough calcium for yeast health and for clarification; proper mash pH; and appropriate levels of sulfate and chloride for flavor.  Depending on your water there may not be any adjustment necessary.  What do you know about the water you use?  How have your mashes gone before?

I have not used my municipal water before. I have always used "drinking water" from my supermarket and it has worked well for me. I have never tested/ adjusted PH before for the mash though so I think If I do that it would make a difference. That may be where I start before going down the rabbit hole of adding salts to the water.

If I am not mistaken, the regional profiles are a bit outdated like you said, but sometimes adding some of the water profile additions of the locations water can help elevate certain aspects of the beer. However, I am a novice at this part so I could be way off

From a recipe standpoint, I think everything looks good except for the FG. I'd mash lower and/or sub in some sugar for part of the Maris Otter. I'd want to get this in the 1.010-1.014 ballpark, otherwise it will be a bit too sweet.

That's a good idea. I think I may do that. I agree that that FG may be a bit high.

How about some English chocolate malt instead of roasted barley? Just a thought.

I was wondering about this. The roasted barley was intended to darken it up a bit and add a little roasty character to it. Do you think the chocolate malt will add this as well? I have never used either malt. Im only on brew #7 or 8

To be honest, the only roasted malt I normally use is carafa.

I believe that most english chocolate malts are very dark so it should be able to help you with color and should provide some roast but less than roasted barley. Someone with more experience with these malts in particular can chime in...

At 1-2% I would say it probably wouldn't make a difference but at 4% I am not so sure.
Sounds like going back to store-bought water would be the way to go and then add appropriate amounts of CaSO4 and/or CaCl2 for the style.

2
Beer Recipes / Re: My attempt at one of these NE IPA's
« on: September 27, 2016, 03:30:39 PM »
I cracked open a bottle of this earlier, with it having been bottled last weekend.  Carbonation is a little lacking, no doubt as it's only been in the bottle less than a week.  Taste and aroma wise, I really like it, it's a bit more bitter than I was aiming for, so I'd probably reduce the whirlpool time down to 20mins, but it's still a nice refreshing pint.  Looks wise, it's hazy, not exceptionally so, and less than it was when I took gravity samples.  Overall, I'm pleased with this beer, though I might split the dry hop addition into 2 additions next time, one towards the end of fermentation, and one a week later.  Will try and remember to take a pic to post next time I try one.
If you like the flavor but not the bitterness, reduce your 60 minute bittering addition.

3
Beer Recipes / Re: Dark ESB
« on: September 27, 2016, 03:26:46 PM »
The use of regional water profiles as a target is largely outdated.  In a nutshell, you want enough calcium for yeast health and for clarification; proper mash pH; and appropriate levels of sulfate and chloride for flavor.  Depending on your water there may not be any adjustment necessary.  What do you know about the water you use?  How have your mashes gone before?

4
All Grain Brewing / Re: true effect of pH on finished beer
« on: September 27, 2016, 10:33:38 AM »
Having worked in a chemistry lab, I have not much faith in isolated pH readings taken in home breweries although I understand that there are some reliable pH meters out there.

I am somewhat skeptical as to the signficance of small variations in mash pH on final pH because most of the acidity in finished beer appears to be produced by yeast.  To illustrate this point in a perhaps oversimplified fashion, if the pH of the mash was 5.5 and the finished pH was 4.5, then there the finshed beer has 10 times H+ as the mash.   

5
Kegging and Bottling / Re: sucking out the dry hopped goodness
« on: September 27, 2016, 07:46:36 AM »
A likely culprit is oxidation caused by you pulling the hops out of the corny.  Many of us on this forum including myself leave the hops in the keg until the keg kicks or until another addition of dry hops.

Also I find that the yeast tends to absorb a lot of oil so initial pulls on the keg are very hoppy.  The hoppiness goes down as less yeast is pulled into the beer.  The hoppiness tends to spike up when the keg is almost finished.

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How long is your brew day?
« on: September 26, 2016, 08:00:19 AM »
~7 hours for 10-11 gallons although I'm looking to knock off 30-45 minutes with my new mill replacing my Corona mill and maybe another 30-45 minutes by fine tuning the mash, sparge and heat to boil.

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The Decline of Homebrewing
« on: September 23, 2016, 12:06:09 PM »
This article is about the decline of local homebrewing shops.  Folks want fresh ingredients, lots of choices, cheap prices, and lots of customer support.  These factors make it difficult for there to be lots of local homebrew stores.

Whether homebrewing follows is unclear to me.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: BJCP comp question
« on: September 21, 2016, 12:56:12 PM »
It should be in category 30, spiced beer of BJCP 2015.  To quote the description of category: "This category explicitly includes all culinary spices, herbs, and vegetables, as well as ... fruit peels/zest (but not juice), rhubarb, and the like."

9
Wood/Casks / Re: Beer Style Recommendations for Third Use of Whiskey Barrel?
« on: September 21, 2016, 10:04:17 AM »
Old Ale or Barleywine?  Tannins would help counteract the sweetness in those styles.

10
Wood/Casks / Re: Beer Style Recommendations for Third Use of Whiskey Barrel?
« on: September 21, 2016, 10:01:43 AM »
I would agree that you probably won't notice the oak in an imperial stout.

11
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Best Way to Aerate Wort
« on: September 21, 2016, 08:31:43 AM »

Brian Kirsop's seminal paper on O2 demand: http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1974.tb03614.x/pdf

Very interesting paper.  On a sidenote it says that olive oil doesn't work as a replacement for oxygen, but sterols do.

12
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: My Tripel tastes too Sweet. Help!
« on: September 21, 2016, 07:59:06 AM »
Also need to see your OG and current gravity to diagnose problem. 

If you want to try a champagne yeast, Lalvin's K1V-1116  is the way to go because it can ferment maltotriose.

13
Wood/Casks / Re: Beer Style Recommendations for Third Use of Whiskey Barrel?
« on: September 21, 2016, 07:47:57 AM »
Imperial stout?  I think you may still extract oak flavor from the barrel so I would not do a sour yet.  How big is your barrel and how long were the first two batches agen in the barrel?

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Good notes?
« on: September 19, 2016, 02:08:36 PM »
The notes I find most useful are ones I do at the end of the brew day or on the next day summarizing what went well and what didn't.

15
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from keg
« on: September 16, 2016, 09:30:56 PM »
If you want to take beer to a party then a carbonator is awesome. 

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