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Messages - kramerog

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1
Kegging and Bottling / Re: counter pressure filling
« on: July 20, 2017, 02:34:52 PM »
High and normal fills are normal in competition.  I don't think fill level affects the score unless the fill is low, which tends to make the judge think that the brewer doesn't know what they are doing. 

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mashtun question
« on: July 20, 2017, 02:31:49 PM »
My first thought was that not putting slots on that pipe would help maintain your siphon better.  My gut says slots in that pipe would apply more suction in the first pipe and reduce the flow from the outer pipes.  I'm not an industrial/process engineer and am probably missing some major point so I could (easily) be completely wrong.  ::)

I batch sparge and would be worried about leaving a lot of wort behind with that setup without having a way to maintain the siphon.

Paul
With normal size slots, the suction is pretty much the same everywhere.

3
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Help with a wee heavy
« on: July 20, 2017, 01:18:55 PM »
You can trying to bump up your temp to 70F.

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mashtun question
« on: July 20, 2017, 09:27:36 AM »
If you are batch sparging, where you put the slits doesn't matter much as long as the slits are on the floor. 

If you are fly sparging, based on the location of that pipe it should have slits.  The sites that say not to cut slits may be concerned about channeling if the "pipe" is closely spaced to other pipes or is along the wall. Ideally, the pipes are equally spaced and not against the wall so that the flow through the grain bed is even.


FYI, you should create a siphon to capture the wort below the outlet by having a hose extending below the floor attached to your outlet while draining.   Longitudinal slits along the floor rather than cross-sectional slits theoretically will capture the most wort.

5
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP 644 Sach Trois Q and A
« on: July 18, 2017, 10:11:05 AM »
At the risk of hijacking this thread, what styles are good for sacc trois?

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Start_Growing hop
« on: July 18, 2017, 10:02:15 AM »
Given Thailand's latitude or closeness to the equoator, I would look to Australia for hops as it too is close to the equator.

FYI, my kid is in Khon Kaen.

7
All Grain Brewing / Re: Adjusting my RO Water
« on: July 17, 2017, 01:12:36 PM »
The hashness could be coming from excess magnesium in the epsom salts.  What levels of magnesum do you have?

8
I've used a carbonator on a 2L bottle as a source of CO2, successfully.  You can safely put 40 psig into a 2L bottle.    Obviously it doesn't provide pressure regulation, but it works to top up pressure.  To purge the bottle, submerge it in a bucket of Starsan so that it is completely filled with Starsan and then bubbling in the CO2. 

Obviously this isn't as good as the product in the 2nd post.

9
Check out howtobrew.com or better yet buy the latest edition of the book for a detailed explanation of the mash rests.  Most people do single infusion for most of their batches.  Single infusion means that hot water and malt is added to achieve a temperature (typically 149-158F) between the alpha and beta rests so as to do both simultaneously. The diacetyl rest is not a mash rest but a lager fermentation rest.

10
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Adding Minerals To Water.
« on: July 13, 2017, 10:20:43 AM »
You should be adding the salts to your mash water to get your pH down, but you will still need acid for your mash and your sparge.  Your water is workable for pale ales per Bru'n Water, but you'll need Bru'n Water or similar tool to figure out how much acid you need.

11
All Grain Brewing / Re: Using very hard water for all beer styles???
« on: July 07, 2017, 07:10:48 AM »
Another thing - depending on the style and grist, you could need to add a fair amount of acid to drop pH. If it's a lot of lactic, there is a taste threshold there. Phosphoric could come in handy there. Personally I'd rather use RO at least for the pale styles.
+1.  Phosphoric acid is more taste neutral than lactic acid.  I use lactic but in the range of 0.5-0.75 ml/gallon.

12
I've just begun doing the following to save CO2 and for safety reasons (exploding glass carboy).  This might help.

1 Depressurize the keg.
2. Connect the gas post of the keg to the carboy.
3. Start a siphon from the carboy
4. Connect the hose with the siphone to the liquid post.

While this can't eliminate the loss of aroma in the keg, it can reduce the loss of aroma in the carboy as a headspace forms.

13
Ingredients / Re: Campden Dosage for Fruit in Beer
« on: July 05, 2017, 04:16:38 PM »
You can rinse the fresh fruit with a 50 ppm metabisulfite solution. IIRC, folks often make a ~75 ppm solution with 1 Campden tablet in 1 gallon - please check the math.  The metabisulfite can interfere with Brett and even bear yeast so the metabisulfite is limited to rinsing.

14
What are all the units in the water report?  There may be an ion that needs to be converted.

15
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wy1318 stall
« on: July 02, 2017, 10:36:17 AM »
Pitch some Nottingham or other aggressive attenuative yeast.

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