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Messages - kramerog

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 102
1
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lactobacillus starter
« on: December 01, 2016, 01:38:23 PM »
Yes.  The starter to keep will be protected by the lactic acid and low pH.  It may also have some alcohol depending on the lacto strain.

2
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Green beer bottles?
« on: November 30, 2016, 01:47:57 PM »
Many brewers who use greem or clear bottles use treated hop extracts instead of hops.  The treatment consists of modifying the alpha acids by hydrogenating some of the double bonds so that they don't participate in the skunking reactions, IIRC.

Does this meet Reinheitsgebot for Pilsner Urquell?
Treated hop extracts do not meet Reinheitsgebot. 

3
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Green beer bottles?
« on: November 30, 2016, 09:00:44 AM »
Many brewers who use greem or clear bottles use treated hop extracts instead of hops.  The treatment consists of modifying the alpha acids by hydrogenating some of the double bonds so that they don't participate in the skunking reactions, IIRC.

4
Classifieds / Re: Hops Direct has a pretty aswesome sale going on
« on: November 28, 2016, 03:33:17 PM »
Thanks.  Took advantage of sale to buy some hops that I use and some that would be interesting to try.

5
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: November 23, 2016, 04:22:18 PM »
Not a chemist here. But I believe it has more to do with its not oxygen.

CO2 is the primary gas produced by fermentation.  However, it is of course far from the only gas emitted.  There's also various sulfur compounds, aromatic esters, alcohols, water vapor, etc.  You are correct -- none of these are oxygen.  The only way to produce oxygen that I know of would be via electrolysis by running an electrical current through the water like a battery, and I seriously doubt any brewer is doing that!  Nevermind the flammable hydrogen gas that would be produced along with it!

What about things like sulfur dioxide coming from the fermentation?  Is it possible it could break down and release O2?
Nope.  SO2 is the secret ingredient of metabisulfite.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


6
Beer Recipes / Re: Coffee Cream Ale, Extract Brewing
« on: November 23, 2016, 04:09:23 PM »
Put your milled malts, oats and an amount of American 2-row equal to about half of the other malts and oats into a paint filter bag and steep them in your water at 150-160 F for 40+ minutes.  Remove grains.  Boil and proceed like normal.

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7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mash thickness
« on: November 23, 2016, 11:11:27 AM »
Because I ain't smart enough to adjust my pH, figure residual alkalinity, use spreadsheets...some on and so on. I find simplicity in consistently adjusting my water to the base malt only. 1 tsp of phosphoric acid per 5 gallons of RO water and a tsp of calcium, whether it be by way of gypsum or calcium carbonate. Simple, repeatable and right up my alley. Think of it as your philosophy for batch sparging. It's the way my poor little brain works.


Your approach works for Gordon Strong so it's probably fine.  On the other hand, a lot of brewing recipe software now has mash pH calculations built in, e.g., Brewer's Friend and Beer Smith 2, IIRC.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Vintage
« on: November 23, 2016, 11:02:09 AM »
OP's is worth more.  It has a cap on it.

9
Beer Recipes / Re: Coffee Cream Ale, Extract Brewing
« on: November 21, 2016, 12:11:33 PM »
I would not add any adjuncts, such as oats, unless you plan on doing a mini-mash with added base malt.  The specialty malts in the kit don't have enough enzymes to do a mini-mash. 

As to coffee, 4 oz in a porter gives a nice balance between coffee and the porter. 1-2 oz may be all you need for a cream ale. 

In something as light as a cream ale, vanilla could obliterate the beer. 

10
All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch sparged and boiled too long!
« on: November 17, 2016, 09:11:23 PM »
t wondering was leaving my initial mash in the boil pot waiting for my sparge have caused DME production that will affect my final beer?

I think you meant DMS, not DME.  No you didn't cause a DMS problem.

You may develop some "caramelized" flavors, which are really Maillard flavors, but they'll probably be hard to pick up in a Porter.  Also the Maillard flavors will be low because the concentration of sugar wasn't that high in your boil. The extra boiling will  make the beer darker but it'll be hard to notice that in a Porter.

RDWHAHB!

11
The Pub / Re: For fans of Deutsche Braukultur!!!!
« on: November 15, 2016, 08:50:35 PM »
Shame to waste all that beer, supposing it was good beer anyway.

Don't worry; that beer was not lodo.

12
Equipment and Software / Re: Best way to clean for a dirty Jockey Box?
« on: November 14, 2016, 10:13:20 AM »
Punch your friends in the face and tell them to clean it.  When you get it back, clean it again and disassemble faucets.

13
Equipment and Software / Re: Bru'n Water profile for a Gose?
« on: November 14, 2016, 10:10:42 AM »
I would ignore water profile and look simply at hitting mash pH and then having an appropriate amount of sodium chloride.  I don't recall how much NaCl I used, but I used a lot less, perhaps only 1/3 of what I've seen floating around the internet.

14
Zymurgy had an article, in the last year IIRC, about a closed system for cask ales.

15
Ingredients / Re: Bitter or sweet orange peel in a Gose?
« on: November 12, 2016, 09:24:59 AM »
Zest of 1 orange or 1 tangerine, but not both, would be great.  Tangerine zest is very powerful. It may take a week or more for the oils to dissolve in a sour.   


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