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Messages - kramerog

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Other Fermentables / Re: Impatient? Or reason to stress?
« on: September 01, 2015, 06:43:52 AM »
Everything homoeccentricus said and asked is valid.

It looks like you are more than half way through fermentation based on estimated starting gravity and current gravity.  At this point, oxidation becomes a major concern so you should just sit this one out.    I suspect that the aging period will be quite long.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Recommendations for Oktoberfest yeast?
« on: August 31, 2015, 03:52:17 PM »
Thanks, I'll see what the lbhs has.

The Pub / Re: Pepper Plants
« on: August 31, 2015, 02:05:06 PM »
I think diatomaceous earth (DE) will kill snails and can also be used for filtering beer.

Yeast and Fermentation / Recommendations for Oktoberfest yeast?
« on: August 31, 2015, 09:17:02 AM »
I wasn't planning on brewing for Oktoberfest but now I think I will and use lager yeast for the first time.  What yeasts are recommended for oktoberfests?  Any dry yeasts?  How about the Wyeast 2633 Oktoberfest lager blend?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: What Volume C02 for Gose?
« on: August 27, 2015, 11:58:14 AM »
Thank you.

I was thinking of 3.5 volumes. Does that sound good?

I'm using bev-seal ultra lines and am trying to avoid going over 30' lengths for each line. I think I could get to 3.5 volumes and still serve with 30 feet.

3.5 sounds good for both.  You will probably see little head on the gose because of its acidity.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: What Volume C02 for Gose?
« on: August 27, 2015, 09:49:53 AM »
3.2.  You could also raise the volumes for the hefeweizen and the gose.. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Do you think I need a starter?
« on: August 20, 2015, 06:14:49 PM »
No.  A few years back Neva (sp?) of White Labs put on a presentation at NHC.  Her recommendation was not to make a starter smaller than 1 L because you are essentially trading very health yeast for more less healthy yeast.

Ingredients / Re: Unmalted wheat, cereal mash or no?
« on: August 18, 2015, 03:06:39 PM »
Some grains contain proteins that prevent and slow down gelatinization at gelatinization temperatures.  Since you are interested in the protein, I think you should boil to get the proteins to dissolve.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Things you wish breweries would figure out
« on: August 18, 2015, 11:59:20 AM »
If you routinely have flights come back with only one empty glass, it's time to reevaluate the rest of your line up.
Good one.  Fortunately I haven't had the experience of drinking a flight like that.

More breweries should offer 6-8 oz pours so I can drink more than one beer without having to buy a tasting flight.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: orange zest and bittering
« on: August 17, 2015, 03:42:12 PM »
The pith of the orange is used for bittering in a traditional wit, but the pith is not a preservative unlike hops.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: All Grain Brewing Instruction
« on: August 17, 2015, 07:04:43 AM »


The aim of recirculation is to draw some wort off from the bottom of the grain bed and return it to the top. Once enough wort has been recirculated in this way, the wort clears up substantially. To recirculate manually, open the spigot to the mash/lauter tun slightly and slowly collect wort in a beer pitcher or similar vessel. Keep a timer running and collect wort at a rate that would fill the pitcher in about 5 minutes. Once full, gently pour the pitcher back on top of the grain bed. Repeat this until the wort looks clearer or 20 minutes have passed. Some homebrew rigs allow you to recirculate using a pump.

Recirculation applies to both batch and fly sparging.  Recirculation can be skipped as in BIAB (boil? in a bag), but there are downsides.  There is no reason to recirculate at such a slow flow rate except  to avoid a stuck mash and to recirculate for that long.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Controlling sourness
« on: August 17, 2015, 06:52:48 AM »
Your could sour a small portion of your wort and then combine with whole.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Safe to bottle?
« on: August 14, 2015, 08:57:21 AM »
Two weeks is generally enough.  If you have good fermentation practices and some confirmatory experience with the specific yeast you are using then go ahead. 

IMHO, I make great beer or I have low standards.  For big beers or large batches, I bubble air through my starters.  Also for big beers I aerate twice, the second time 12-24 hours after pitching.  However, I do not consider myself an expert at big beers.

Edit: I usually do a few days of "open" fermentation in a bucket fermenter with the lid on loosely for big beers.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question on lengthy boil times.
« on: August 11, 2015, 07:36:51 AM »
This is pure speculation but longer boils might be necessary for some modern breweries to drive off DMS due to the closed configuration of their boil kettles.

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