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Messages - kramerog

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Equipment and Software / Re: BeerSmith 3
« on: June 17, 2018, 02:53:02 AM »
The whirlpool hop additions and bitterness calculations are much better with a setting to set the temperature of whirlpool addition.  There is also a 'hop' addition labeled 'whirlpool pause' which can be added and set for the entire length of the whirlpool so that delayed and staggered additions will by properly expressed on the brew day sheet and the timer.  The model for whirlpool addition IBU calculations is improved, though still dubious IMHO.

Support for water mineral/salt additions are moved into the recipe and respond much better in the mash pH estimation.  Ditto with acid/acidulated malt additions.  There is still an issue with directly adding acids/acidulated malt/minerals & salts directly into the recipe not being accounted for in the water profile tab.

Yeast starter tab now supports 2-step yeast starters.

Volumes are now given for LME and other liquid additions.

Better cloud support and recipe cloud search from within the program.

I'm sure that I've missed some of the other minor alterations, but these are the big ones that are visible.
Thanks, the water profile thing might be what makes me hold off on upgrading.

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Equipment and Software / BeerSmith 3
« on: June 16, 2018, 08:16:17 PM »
I see that it is now out.  I see that it has better support for mead, wine and cider.  How is it better than BeerSmith2 for making beer? 

Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 manifolds, old regulator and my liufe
« on: June 15, 2018, 01:32:06 PM »
You could try carbonating a keg, then turning off the gas at the tank and disconnecting it from the keg.  If your beer doesn't pour the next day, the leak is at the keg.
A long time ago I saw somebody took a section of an old inner tube and fit it over the top of a keg so he could fill it with water and look for bubbles.  I thought that was pretty cool, but usually spraying with star san works well.
Yes, regulators can leak.

great ideas!  i don't understand tge innertube idea. it sounds nifty.
He cut a cross section of 6 or 7 inch wide inner tube and stretched it over the top of the keg, making a water tight bowl above the posts of the keg into which he could pour water, so that the top of the keg was under water.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Reusing RO wastewater.
« on: May 29, 2018, 04:47:23 PM »
Cooling water if the water is softened.  If not, the water may cause scaling from excessive calcium carbonate.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Reusing RO wastewater.
« on: May 29, 2018, 04:23:43 PM »
Sports drink?  No need to add salt!

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Questions about open fermentation
« on: May 29, 2018, 04:18:39 PM »
Some yeasts really benefit from open fermentation.  Some yeasts need more oxygen than can be absorbed by wort to be healthy, particularly some English yeast strains, which were traditionally open fermented.  Some yeasts are thought to be sensitive to high CO2 levels particularly DuPont saison yeasts.

Big beers can benefit from open fermentation.  Some people prefer closed fermentations and do a second injection of oxygen instead about 12-24 hours after pitching instead.

Hop Growing / Re: Hops on clay
« on: May 24, 2018, 01:40:49 PM »
Clay in and of itself shouldn't be a problem.  Plenty of people grow hops in Chicagoland.  But Chicagoland probably has more rain than Crescent City?  Find out from local folks what grows successfully in your area.  A raised bed is a good idea regardless otherwise the hops will want to spread all over the place.

Lacto can also form pellicle.

Absolutely do not dump without tasting first.  Even then if the contaminant is Brett, the flavor will change over time so you may get something "better."  Of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder so you may hate it, you may love it. 

Check out this method I use.

Also, If you are kegging then I assume that you have a CO2 tank.  You can fill the keg with Sanitizer and then push it out with CO2 thus removing nearly all O2. 

I think this is what Big Monk is saying but I will put it in my words.  If you have some extra hose lying around you can attach some to your gas in attachment from the keg and run the line from there to the top of the fermenter (Red line in picture).  Do a standard gravity transfer through the liquid out line (Blue line in picture) of the keg and as the keg fills it will displace the CO2.  Run the CO2 line to the fermenter and you will fill the head space with mostly CO2.  If you have the means you can drill two holes in a stopper for the siphon and the CO2 from the keg line. 

I cannot seem to get the images to show so here is a link...
What Adam said works really well.

Did you do a full boil, e.g., boiled all the wort or did you boil some of the wort and diluted in the fermenter?

One issue is that the hops in the middle of the boil are somewhat wasted in that they don't provide a lot of bitterness or flavor relative to hops added earlier or later.  A better practice is to add all the flavor hops/lupulin after turning off the heat on the boil and let the hops/lupulin steep for 20-60 minutes. 

Ingredients / Re: making invert sugar
« on: May 08, 2018, 03:48:23 PM »
The Maillard reactions for invert sugar needs proteins/amino acids so some kind of raw cane sugar is necessary.

Here is a shortcut: dissolve 2 pounds of sugar in a pint of water.  The first pound can be easily dissolved before the boil and the second once the boil has started.  Ron's approach requires boiling out 1 lb of excess water to hit the target temperature, which takes some time.  The acid can also be added with the first pound of sugar so that inversion can get underway before the boil. 

Invert no. 1 and 2 can be made fairly easily with enough time.  I've had no success getting to invert no. 3 following Ron's info.  I have seen some information that suggests the invert should be neutralized after invert no. 1 is achieved.  I don't brew enough with invert sugar to have gotten around to figuring out the best way to neutralize the invert.


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Weird question...
« on: April 25, 2018, 01:58:15 PM »
Try dry hopping it or adding spice.    The beer may not become good or great, but you'll learn something about that hop or spice. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n Water results - cation anion difference
« on: April 19, 2018, 07:20:44 PM »
It looks like the data is correctly entered.  There is some phosphorous that is not accounted for in Bru'n Water.  Doing some quick calcs and assuming that phosphorous corresponds to HPO3--, the phosphorous only accounts for ~ 0.02 meq/l of extra anion.  So what is left is analytical error and other substances that are not tested for.

My educated guess is that the discrepancy does not matter much for purposes of calculating your mash pH and for sparge adjustments (probably no reason to adjust due to near zero residual alkalinity).  To me, the bigger issue is that your water apparently comes from a surface source whose mineral content varies based on the weather.  The water looks good now, but might not be during a drought.

All Grain Brewing / Re: NEIPA Water Profile
« on: April 16, 2018, 02:11:32 PM »
Hi everyone,

I brewed my first NEIPA starting with RO water and the result doesn't live up to my expectations. Even though this beer is by far the fruitiest I ever brewed, there is a disturbing taste/mouthfeel to it which I already experienced in some NEIPA commercial examples.

I started with RO water and added 0.44 g epsom salt per gal (7 Grams for 60L) and 0.82 calcium chloride per gal (13 Grams for 60L) and obtained this profile:

Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl- SO4-2 HCO
59.1 11.5 0.0 104.5 45.5 0.000

As it tastes strange, I'm thinking about correcting it with 0.38 G Gypsum per Gal, 0.13 G of table salt per Gal and 0.13 G more of calcium chloride per Gal to reach this profile:

Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl- SO4-2 HCO
91.4 11.5 13.1 140.8 101.2 0.000

Any thougts on what I'm planing to do? Does it make sense or should I be a bit more conservative? I could also go with just a bit of gypsum to raise the sulfate level (and the calcium level but I've read it has little effect on taste) and forget about the sodium and the extra calcium chloride.


In future batches, I would drop the magnesium.  I just don't see the benefit of using epsom salts when gypsum is tried and true and you are using gypsum anyway.

In this batch, I would just add more gypsum.  This recommendation has more to do with an experimental approach of making only one change at a time.  If you add 3 different salts, how are you to know what worked or didn't work?  It seems that you have a lot of this beer, 60L, perhaps 3 cornies?  You could do different things with different cornies, but I'd start with the gypsum and see how that goes first.

Beer Recipes / Re: Modern Times Fraxos Recipe Formulation
« on: April 15, 2018, 03:18:41 PM »
Your FG should decrease if you lower the amount of crystal, but of course BS is just making a ball park estimate.

NEIPAs have a lot of sulfate and chloride at levels higher than most brewers are used to. Scott Janish's blog (google it)  has a lot of good info on making NEIPAs. 

Most of your hops should be used in a hopstand and in one or 2 dryhop additions.  The first dry hop would be at the tail end of the active fermentation and the second in the keg.  You might need 1/2 -1 ounce of hops in a bittering addition.  Apart from the bittering addition, I would keep the ratio of hops in the various additions constant.

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