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Messages - kramerog

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1801
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Smack pack already swelled on arrival
« on: October 13, 2010, 08:37:52 PM »
Having no experience with receiving a swollen package of Wyeast, I suspect that you may need to scale up the starter especially if you are making a 10-gal batch. 

1802
Sounds like a recipe for sour beer.  Steep the grain in water at 140F for over half hour to extract flavor and pasteurize the wort.  I don't think you have to worry about extracting tannins because dark malt is very acidic.

1803
The Pub / Re: Opening a HBSS
« on: October 07, 2010, 05:12:15 PM »
Part of the struggle of a HBSS is figuring out how much to buy.  If you buy too much stock, you may end up with stale malt extract, old hops, old yeast etc.  I've definitely seen homebrew stores with too much old stock especially hops and yeast.  If you buy too little, you can't get bulk pricing.  Given that you would be the only HBSS in Paris, you might not have the problem of too much stock once you get the word out.  One of the better places I go to has an internet business which allows it have good selection and good turnover.

Don't know if having a Blichmann would be that useful unless you wanted one for your homebrewing.  Who has the space in their apartment for one?

I wonder if there are wholesalers for homebrew stuff in France.

1804
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Hopping
« on: October 01, 2010, 05:34:46 PM »
A little OT but there is no need to rack to secondary.  You can age and dry hop in primary. Agree that 2 weeks is max normal dryhopping time.

1805
Equipment and Software / Re: Copper manifold questions
« on: September 30, 2010, 06:35:19 PM »
Two concentric rings connected by a tee works well for me.  The two rings are tied together with string.  The fittings within each ring don't need any soldering.   The outer ring has slots pointing upwards and the inner rings has slots pointing downwards.  The manifold is loosely connected to the spigot.  The manifold has not disconnected from the spigot in 6 batches.  My efficiencies are often 85% without overextraction.

1806
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Cursed at 1.020
« on: September 16, 2010, 05:35:23 PM »
Slow it down and go for 2 minutes.

If you are using air to oxgenate, there is no reason to not oxgenate for at least 5 or 10 minutes.  One study suggested that you need to run an aquarium pump for 30 minutes to adequately oxygenate wort through a stone. 

Some studies say that aerating the wort while racking into the fermenter, e.g., fan the wort on the side of the fermenter as you rack and occasionally shaking the fermenter, is better.

I usually do both. 

1807
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Problem with my Smoked Porter w/ peppers
« on: September 16, 2010, 05:22:38 PM »
After transferring it yesterday, I noticed that my fermentation started a little again. 

If the fermentation started a little and then petered out, then what you saw is not fermentation, but carbon dioxide reequilibrating between the headspace and the beer. 

To get the fermentation to restart warm the beer up and give it time.  You can also try to rouse any yeast that precipitated out by swirling the beer.

1808
Ingredients / Re: Paying for hops is worth it !!!
« on: September 13, 2010, 05:43:01 PM »
Is there any appreciable difference between hops ordered from say... Freshhops and ones you picked out of the backyard? With tomatoes or peaches it does. However, I can't see it being the same with hops.

I picked over 4 lbs of hops with help from others and ended up with more a pound dry.  I also left hops on the bine b/c i got tired of picking.

I've read that commercial hops have less aroma and flavor because the hops are dried at 140 F.  Hopefully, my american pale ale and IPA will demonstrate that it was worth the effort.

1809
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Using ionized water
« on: September 07, 2010, 10:35:39 PM »
I assume you mean DEionized water.  You'll need to add minerals to match the desired beer style and for yeast health. 

1810
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane Gas Burner - Major Soot Problem
« on: August 30, 2010, 07:23:51 PM »
If the flame is getting yellower over time, I think the problem is not a loss of pressure, which can be compensated by opening your control valve wider reducing the pressure drop across the control valve, but a density problem.  As the propane gets colder, the density of the propane gets higher making the gas mixture at the burner richer in propane. 

I think the most effective way to overcome the cold probably is to put a heat exchanger for the propane between your regulator and burner.  Perhaps a long pipe would work.  Increasing the size of your tanks as suggested by the other posters is helpful.

1811
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane Gas Burner - Major Soot Problem
« on: August 26, 2010, 05:04:47 PM »
Soot from these type of burners is unavoidable, but what you are experiencing is extreme.  Are you brewing indoors?  If so you need to improve the ventilation to pull out the soot and carbon monoxide and pull in more oxygen.

A picture showing how the kettle sits above the burner would be helpful for diagnosing the problem.

1812
Beer Travel / Re: Boston
« on: August 26, 2010, 04:50:23 PM »
Sam Adams was still selling Utopias at their Boston brewery in the early summer. 

1813
Ingredients / Re: Show us your Hops!
« on: August 26, 2010, 05:23:44 AM »
2nd year Cascades crawling over swingset in Chicagoland.  I have a tomato plant that is using the hop bines as a trellis too. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2069696&id=1455129973&l=bce54f0d79


1814
Beer Travel / Re: One Week in Belgium
« on: August 11, 2010, 06:00:17 PM »
You could drink beer at a cyclocross race.  Historically, cyclocross race would make several laps through beer tents.  Perhaps, they still do.  I wouldn't call this a must do unless you were a cycling fanatic.

1815
Ingredients / Re: Home grown Cascade
« on: August 04, 2010, 03:45:01 PM »
Here is James Altweis's presentation.  Some really good stuff here.  I might dry in the house or in the basement with the house AC unit this year.

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/4802/Hop_Quality-James_Altweis.pdf

Good presentation.  The presentation says hops in the first year of growing "are usable but may not reflect the true
characteristics until year 2."

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