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Messages - kramerog

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1801
General Homebrew Discussion / Best Book for American Styles
« on: June 30, 2010, 05:27:57 PM »
What is the Best Book for doing American ale styles?  The books I have are either dated or directed to English styles.

1802
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: StarSan Longevity
« on: June 11, 2010, 05:58:38 PM »
I leave aeration stones in cloudy star san between batches.   If you put an aeration stone in fresh star san, you can kiss the fresh stuff goodbye.

1803
Equipment and Software / Re: >5 gallons...how do you all do it?
« on: June 11, 2010, 05:46:15 PM »
The biggest change is not being able to brew in the kitchen because domestic kitchen stoves aren't powerful enough.

1804
Ingredients / Re: Companion Plants for Hops
« on: June 10, 2010, 05:07:14 PM »
I'm not sure that a companion plant does all that much good other than protecting the base of the plant- currently I have a hop shoot that is 8 feet high and extends 12 feet laterally away from the base. 

1805
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: oxygenation tips
« on: June 09, 2010, 05:41:55 PM »
I place a fermentation stone in the kettle towards the end of cooling to aerate and to increase both heat transfer and uniformity of temperature.  I may pitch yeast in the kettle if I'm using the same yeast for the entire 10 gallons and continue aeration to mix everything up.  During the transfer into carboys, I orient the hose so the wort fans out on the side of the carboy to maximize air-wort contact.  The fanning of the wort is a winemaking technique I picked up.  Finally, I might rock the carboys a little. 

1806
Ingredients / Re: Companion Plants for Hops
« on: June 07, 2010, 07:25:53 PM »
Barley for one stop shopping!  Anything growing near hops tends to get covered by the hops, so your companion plant should probably be a tall perennial or a fast growing annual.  I say this because I have to relocate a small blueberry bush as it is being outcompeted by the hop plant.

1807
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Loss of carbonation & priming
« on: March 23, 2010, 05:10:52 PM »
Thanks for the advice.  I've since drunk the beer and the carbonation level is fine.

1808
Kegging and Bottling / Loss of carbonation & priming
« on: February 25, 2010, 06:41:10 PM »
Having listened to the Brew Strong show on BN, I'm pretty sure I know how to use the priming nomograph found at http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter11-4.html.   The nomograph assumes that the beer is saturated with 1 atm of carbon dioxide at a given temperature.  Obviously the beer won't be saturated with carbon dioxide immediately after racking and bottling  In my last batch which is still conditioning, I shot for the upper level of the carbonation range for the style in the hope of staying within the range.  How do you deal with the loss in carbon dioxide during racking and bottling?

1809
Equipment and Software / Re: Jet burner clearances
« on: February 12, 2010, 02:59:51 AM »

Kramer it looks like you might have some bi-metallic corrosion going on there with those hex screws plugging up the jet-holes.

Euge,

I looked into it.  What you are seeing is dried wort from a boilover.  I'm not sure what the screws are made from exactly - some kind of steel?  Anyway I'll monitor the situation.  Thanks

1810
Equipment and Software / Re: Jet burner clearances
« on: February 01, 2010, 11:20:27 PM »
Opening the door wider seems to have fixed the problem.  But I still think that being so close to the floor chokes the flow of air a little.

1811
Equipment and Software / Re: Three Tier Stand - Design Considerations
« on: February 01, 2010, 11:18:58 PM »
Quote
kramerog - Why did you reduce the number of jets on those burners? I picked up two of those exact burners.

Those burners have a limited adjustment range.  Unlike a kitchen stove, the burners burn very yellow at low fuel flows.  The burners have more than enough BTUs to cause constant boilovers of 10 gal batches from my thin wall brewing kettle.  I forget the type of screws I used to replace the burner tips but I should be able to find the info at home.  You might find the burners to be not so oversized if you are using a keggle, which is very inefficient  to heat due to its relatively narrow bottom, thick walls, etc.

The screws I bought from McMaster Carr are M8 20 mm.  Shorter ones would work fine.  Use pipe thread compound for gas to seal.

1812
Equipment and Software / Re: Three Tier Stand - Design Considerations
« on: January 28, 2010, 04:52:32 AM »
In my 3 tier stand I have not found it necessary to put up a heat shield but I did wrap some aluminum foil around a wire that  passed near one of the burners for a margin of safety.  I purchased some "roof tin" made of steel for the shield but did not use..

I built my 3 tier system for doing 10-gal batches tall and narrow rather than wide and short in my basement, see http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30780367&l=fc4ca620da&id=1455129973.  I am having an issue with a very yellow flame for my bottom jet burner due to what I think is too little clearance from the floor.  If you are using a burner assembly that mixes the fuel with air before going into the burner then floor clearance should never be an issue.


1813
Equipment and Software / Jet burner clearances
« on: January 28, 2010, 02:12:37 AM »
I have two natural gas jet burners in my three tier brewery.  The bottom one which is close to the floor burns very yellow.  The top one burns quite blue.  What is the proper clearance from the floor?  The bottom of the burner ring is only 1.75 inches from the floor.  The top of the tips are 2.25 inches from the bottom a flat bottom kettle.  The burner originally had 23 burner tips, but now only has 12 tips.

The burner can be seen at http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30811465&l=98f3ffe745&id=1455129973

Thanks Kramer OG


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