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Messages - kramerog

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256
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation Timing
« on: April 15, 2014, 08:36:57 AM »
Less than two weeks of fermentation is the norm for me.  Big beers and finicky yeasts are the major exceptions.

257
Ingredients / Re: Dry hops Prior to Finished Fermentation
« on: April 15, 2014, 07:58:54 AM »
Also yeast may change chemicals contributed by hops, not necessarily bad.

258
Ingredients / Re: oats in Witbier
« on: April 14, 2014, 10:21:06 AM »
I think flaked would be traditional.

259
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kids and Homebrew
« on: April 14, 2014, 08:29:19 AM »
My daughter helps with bottling.  She doesn't like the smell of wort so she is never around during brewing, which is fine by me.

260
You may get more sour in a few months.  Anyway, an eyedropper in a glass should work.  You'll need to figure out how many drops are in a ml.  Next figure out if what 1 drop/glass is equivalent scaled up to the amount of beer you want to sour.  If it works out to be a reasonable increment of lactic acid (5-10 ml would be great) then proceed with your experiment.  If it turns out to be unreasonable (let's say 100 ml) then use a bigger glass. 

261
Hop Growing / Re: Recommended Hop growing medium
« on: April 08, 2014, 06:35:10 AM »
I'm no expert on soil.  Hops are like weeds.  They'll grow very well in pretty much any kind of soil.  They love nitrogen.  Look for fertilizers like 10-0-0 or 20-0-0 or something like that.

Oregon extension recommends high N - low P - high K for soils in commercial hop growing areas of Oregon.  I believe that recommendation to be valid for other soils.

262
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Shake Carbing
« on: April 04, 2014, 01:28:45 PM »
I assume you are talking about a carbonator cap that screws onto a soda bottle.  I do use use a carbonator cap occasionally when I find that my batch of beer exceeds 5-gal or as a growler.  It works well but it is somewhat inconvenient to use as your main method of carbonation because every time you open the bottle, you have to push out the air and then put more CO2 on top (if you aren't going to finish it in one sitting).  The price is not too unreasonable to buy two of them for a 1-gal batch.

263
Ingredients / Re: How to tell if a malt is under modified?
« on: April 04, 2014, 09:46:47 AM »
There are some less modified malts apparently, but none that are apparently undermodified.  Check out the following message. https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=11699.msg146283#msg146283

I wonder if a combination of flaked barley and an overmodified malt would be similar to undermodified malt.

264
Equipment and Software / Re: Sanitizing buckets
« on: April 03, 2014, 10:30:02 AM »
I do whatever is convenient; usually the spray bottle is impossible to find, but my bucket of StarSan is hard to miss.  If I spray, I dump the rinsate down the drain.  If I put in a "bunch," I'll pour the rinsate back into my StarSan bucket.

265
Kegging and Bottling / Re: keg hopping while carbing
« on: April 01, 2014, 07:01:36 PM »
You can also attach a hose clamp around the vent well for some carboy lids.  You can then tie the bag to the clamp.

I have not had to remove hops from a keg, but I have removed them when I put in extra hops.  I remember my hops bags usually float in the keg anyway.  Often I dry hop with whole hops, which might make a difference.

Sent from my SGH-T839 using Tapatalk 2


266
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is my beer infected?
« on: April 01, 2014, 01:45:11 PM »
You got fungi floating in there!

267
All Grain Brewing / Re: Conversion time trame
« on: March 28, 2014, 06:53:29 AM »
Somethings to consider.  Coarseness of grind - the coarser the grind the longer it takes for the enzymes to get to the last starch molecules.  Temperature:  are you sure your thermometer is reliable?  If your thermometer reads 10 F high then that would largely explain why your mash takes so long.  Chemistry factors which are probably secondary to coarseness and temperature:  mash pH and calcium.  Calcium is necessary for beta-amylase, but beta-amylase doesn't play a big role in breaking down starch unlike alpha-amylase. 

I'm usually at 90% efficiency with a 60-minute mash and no mash-out. 

268
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Fizz drops
« on: March 27, 2014, 07:39:30 PM »
Thanks.  The one size fits all aspect of the drops aren't appealing particularly when the reason for bottling is for a homebrew competition.  I've also done the homemade syrup so that 1 tsp/bottle of syrup got me the carbonation, but that was also a bit of a pain too.

269
It seems your target is 145 billion and you estimate 126 billion.  In yeast terms these numbers are pretty close.  Do a direct pitch.

270
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Re-using yeast
« on: March 27, 2014, 02:56:33 PM »
But, Mr. Malty says I need 117 mL of slurry.  I've obviously got 7 times that.  Is there any easy way to get the right amount, or do you just guesstimate?

I think Mr Malty also assumes a density to the repitched yeast, which you may not be at.  You have to look at My Malty's documentation about that.  When repitching yeast to a big beer, I use about half of the yeast  from the small beer.














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