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Messages - kramerog

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256
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Best Way to Aerate Wort
« on: September 21, 2016, 08:31:43 AM »

Brian Kirsop's seminal paper on O2 demand: http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1974.tb03614.x/pdf

Very interesting paper.  On a sidenote it says that olive oil doesn't work as a replacement for oxygen, but sterols do.

257
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: My Tripel tastes too Sweet. Help!
« on: September 21, 2016, 07:59:06 AM »
Also need to see your OG and current gravity to diagnose problem. 

If you want to try a champagne yeast, Lalvin's K1V-1116  is the way to go because it can ferment maltotriose.

258
Wood/Casks / Re: Beer Style Recommendations for Third Use of Whiskey Barrel?
« on: September 21, 2016, 07:47:57 AM »
Imperial stout?  I think you may still extract oak flavor from the barrel so I would not do a sour yet.  How big is your barrel and how long were the first two batches agen in the barrel?

259
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Good notes?
« on: September 19, 2016, 02:08:36 PM »
The notes I find most useful are ones I do at the end of the brew day or on the next day summarizing what went well and what didn't.

260
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from keg
« on: September 16, 2016, 09:30:56 PM »
If you want to take beer to a party then a carbonator is awesome. 

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


261
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane plumbing
« on: September 15, 2016, 08:42:53 AM »
I did my own calcs and was surprised to confirm that 1/4" would be fine.

262
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane plumbing
« on: September 14, 2016, 03:35:23 PM »
1/4" everywhere seems small especially for the piping common to both burners, but I suppose that you have plenty of pressure (up to 40 psi) to burn.

263
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane plumbing
« on: September 14, 2016, 03:15:13 PM »
At the risk of asking this question again, shouldn't items 3 & 8 have 1/2" NPT because the black pipe is 1/2"?

264
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How fast should you cold crash?
« on: September 14, 2016, 02:14:53 PM »
Some people don't "crash." Rather they drop the temperature slowly to avoid or reduce oxygen being sucked through the airlock.  I crash because I use my kegerator for cooling.

265
Equipment and Software / Re: Newest version BeerSmith 2
« on: September 14, 2016, 01:44:25 PM »
BeerSmith assumes that the selected water profile is the finished water profile and consequently ignores all salt additions.

That makes sense (that that's what's happening, not that that's the way it works).

If BeerSmith's mash pH calc worked the way that made more sense, I would upgrade to BS2 in a heart beat. 

266
Equipment and Software / Re: Newest version BeerSmith 2
« on: September 14, 2016, 12:32:24 PM »
I will be sticking with Bru'n Water for water chemistry - the water profile and mash pH calculator is clunky in BeerSmith... and I am not seeing anywhere near the same mash pH predictions. Of course, I could be doing it wrong. I'll keep banging at it - I am sure I will figure it out at some point.

So much this.  I like it for the most part, but the water chemistry is still either grossly lacking, or I haven't figured out how to use it properly yet.
BeerSmith assumes that the selected water profile is the finished water profile and consequently ignores all salt additions.  In contrast, Bru'n water uses the starting water profile and the added salts for its calculations. 

Hope this helps.


267
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane plumbing
« on: September 14, 2016, 12:25:15 PM »
The pressure between the needle valve and the burner should be very low because the burner is open to the atmosphere. One the issue of safety and pressure, having a regulator that goes up to 40 psi seems like overkill.  I would think that 1 psi is plenty.

It appears you need a 3/8" male flare fitting at the end of the black pipe for connecting to the regulator hose.

268
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: FG still to high
« on: September 13, 2016, 07:17:30 AM »
Also, I had planned on adding some post fermentation flavor with coffee, cacao nibs, maybe even oak (not all together, but in individual batches).  Any chance any of those will add a drier impression or taste to the beer?


Sounds like you made youself a winter warmer.  Coffee will give a drier impression.  Not sure about cacao nibs, but theoretically yes.  Oak if well charred is initially sweet before releasing  drying tannins. Hops with lots of beta acids can also provide bitterness.

269
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Best Way to Aerate Wort
« on: September 12, 2016, 07:23:46 AM »
I rack with aeration and then create a vortex in the carboy, so called shaking.

270
Beer Recipes / Re: North East IPA recipe, input requested
« on: September 09, 2016, 08:44:38 PM »
My homegrown CTZ's, which are harsher than commercial CTZ's, give a harsh note to my my juicy IPA that is simply not noticeable or undesirable in a regular IPA.  So I would suggest backing down the IBUs from the CTZs. 

While you are not going to get 50 IBUs from doing a hopstand at 170 F, you should get some that will compensate for backing down the CTZ's by IBUs.


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