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Messages - kramerog

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286
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How fast should you cold crash?
« on: September 14, 2016, 02:14:53 PM »
Some people don't "crash." Rather they drop the temperature slowly to avoid or reduce oxygen being sucked through the airlock.  I crash because I use my kegerator for cooling.

287
Equipment and Software / Re: Newest version BeerSmith 2
« on: September 14, 2016, 01:44:25 PM »
BeerSmith assumes that the selected water profile is the finished water profile and consequently ignores all salt additions.

That makes sense (that that's what's happening, not that that's the way it works).

If BeerSmith's mash pH calc worked the way that made more sense, I would upgrade to BS2 in a heart beat. 

288
Equipment and Software / Re: Newest version BeerSmith 2
« on: September 14, 2016, 12:32:24 PM »
I will be sticking with Bru'n Water for water chemistry - the water profile and mash pH calculator is clunky in BeerSmith... and I am not seeing anywhere near the same mash pH predictions. Of course, I could be doing it wrong. I'll keep banging at it - I am sure I will figure it out at some point.

So much this.  I like it for the most part, but the water chemistry is still either grossly lacking, or I haven't figured out how to use it properly yet.
BeerSmith assumes that the selected water profile is the finished water profile and consequently ignores all salt additions.  In contrast, Bru'n water uses the starting water profile and the added salts for its calculations. 

Hope this helps.


289
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane plumbing
« on: September 14, 2016, 12:25:15 PM »
The pressure between the needle valve and the burner should be very low because the burner is open to the atmosphere. One the issue of safety and pressure, having a regulator that goes up to 40 psi seems like overkill.  I would think that 1 psi is plenty.

It appears you need a 3/8" male flare fitting at the end of the black pipe for connecting to the regulator hose.

290
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: FG still to high
« on: September 13, 2016, 07:17:30 AM »
Also, I had planned on adding some post fermentation flavor with coffee, cacao nibs, maybe even oak (not all together, but in individual batches).  Any chance any of those will add a drier impression or taste to the beer?


Sounds like you made youself a winter warmer.  Coffee will give a drier impression.  Not sure about cacao nibs, but theoretically yes.  Oak if well charred is initially sweet before releasing  drying tannins. Hops with lots of beta acids can also provide bitterness.

291
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Best Way to Aerate Wort
« on: September 12, 2016, 07:23:46 AM »
I rack with aeration and then create a vortex in the carboy, so called shaking.

292
Beer Recipes / Re: North East IPA recipe, input requested
« on: September 09, 2016, 08:44:38 PM »
My homegrown CTZ's, which are harsher than commercial CTZ's, give a harsh note to my my juicy IPA that is simply not noticeable or undesirable in a regular IPA.  So I would suggest backing down the IBUs from the CTZs. 

While you are not going to get 50 IBUs from doing a hopstand at 170 F, you should get some that will compensate for backing down the CTZ's by IBUs.


293
You need thicker bottles. IME, I have lost some bottles when carbonated at 3.0 v/v.  I have not had to get a new capper for thicker bottles but I suppose that depends on the bottles you buy.

294
Equipment and Software / Re: More User Friendly pH Meter
« on: September 06, 2016, 05:01:48 PM »
Difficulty in calibration could be an indication that the probe of the pH meter is not working.  That could happen because it was not properly stored, the probe is going bad, etc. 

295
Beer Recipes / Re: My attempt at one of these NE IPA's
« on: September 04, 2016, 09:27:32 AM »
The one NE IPA I made makes me a believer that yeast-hop interactions can be significant. I can't recognize the citra in this beer.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


296
Beer Recipes / Re: My attempt at one of these NE IPA's
« on: September 04, 2016, 07:10:01 AM »
According to Scott Janish's blog (http://scottjanish.com/blog/), there should be an addition of hops 3 days into the fermentation and an addition after fermentation.  Whether an addition 7 days into fermentation instead would work is not question I can answer.

297
Beer Recipes / Re: Did I miss the style?
« on: September 02, 2016, 11:59:50 AM »
Since you asked, the Maris Otter sticks out to me as something non-traditional, e.g., would probably not be used in the Baltic republics or Sweden.  Probably not a big deal when it is tasted.

298
Equipment and Software / Re: Brewing Thermometer
« on: September 01, 2016, 12:21:14 PM »
Sorry for late response, you could probably use DOT for everything.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


299
Higher temperature sparge water dissolves more tannins and presumably more silicates.  Tannins cause chill haze.  Anyway I may be over obsessing on one experiment.

300
What was the temp of the sparge?

Doesn't matter.  Hotter sparge water does not extract more sugar.

My question relates to the reduced clarity of the batch sparge beer not to efficiency.  I've been cold sparging for no-boil beers for some time ....

Sorry I misunderstood.  What's your thinking there?
I was wondering if the sparge water temp could relate to the lack of clarity of the sparged batch although pH of sparge was controlled. Anyway,  I didn't see the sparge temp reported.

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