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Messages - kramerog

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286
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Help with bugs
« on: May 08, 2015, 09:06:21 PM »
Out of sheer curiosity I would probably see what the pH is. If it was below 4.5 I might taste it.
+1.

Any idea if the beer is fully fermented? If it had been left at ambient temps, I would think it would be safe by now if the pH is below 4.5.  IIRC, the mad fermentationist said after 3 months a wild fermented beer should be safe.  Googling his site, I didn't see where he said that but you might be interested in this article: http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2011/05/american-lambic-spontaneous.html.

If it tastes OK (spit don't swallow), consider adding fresh wort so you have a 1/2 gallon to 1 gallon of this stuff.  Let it ferment at room temp for several months.  In the meantime confirm if what I remember about when it is safe to drink these things is correct.




287
Ingredients / Re: How do you get chalk to dissove in brew water?
« on: May 07, 2015, 02:35:25 PM »
After reading the thread again, I would use RO for the bulk of your water because the malt extract manufacturer already adjusted the pH for you.  I would also do the mini-mash with RO or mildly alkaline tap water because the mini-mash pH will probably fall in the ball park of where you want to be and because adjusting the mini-mash pH would involve very small salt additions which aren't convenient to measure accurately without a lab scale. 

288
Ingredients / Re: How do you get chalk to dissove in brew water?
« on: May 07, 2015, 11:43:39 AM »
Munich has to be mashed.  Don't use a Munich water profile on purpose, build the water to get the desired mash pH and flavor characteristics.  Use soda or food grade pickling lime (CaO) rather than chalk because chalk is difficult to dissolve without sufficient acidity.

289
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Carbonation for beginners
« on: May 07, 2015, 08:06:18 AM »
What you are saying sounds right but lengthening your lines would work better so the pressure for your desired carbonation level is that same as your service pressure, say 10 psi.  The formula for line length is very approximate so it is better to get too much line which causes the flow to be very slow and then shorten the line until a proper pour is achieved.  My lines are about 10 feet long using the "standard" plastic tubing of "standard" homebrewing diameter.  (Standard really means typical and also means I don't remember what it is).

290
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Equation for Bottle CO2 Volumes
« on: May 06, 2015, 11:51:27 AM »
When I carbonated to 3 v/v, some of the long neck bottles cracked. 

291
It will be interesting to see who will be the first major competition to use the new guidelines and how smooth it goes.  I'm guessing that NHC2016 will be using the new guidelines then?

"The BJCP expects that by the end of 2015, all competitions will use the 2015 guidelines."

292
I really hope that I passed the BJCP exam in February otherwise I'm going to have to study a lot more.

293
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Law of partial pressures
« on: May 04, 2015, 09:33:05 PM »
Opening the PRV equalizes the total pressure very rapidly.  Equalizing concentrations at the same pressure takes a very long time because that is diffusion driven.

294
Wood/Casks / Re: Saving a stinky barrel?
« on: May 01, 2015, 06:54:56 AM »
When I was last in Oregon several years ago, I tried to go to Maryhill winery, but a fire prevented me from doing so.  I think I ended up at Jacobs Williams instead.

I filled the barrel with the Flanders Red yesterday.

295
Wood/Casks / Re: Saving a stinky barrel?
« on: April 30, 2015, 09:14:09 PM »
It's a half barrel.  I 've been splitting the beers with one or two other brewers.  I've just been aging in the barrel.  It is easier just to age because the brewing can be spread over several weekends.  Primary fermentation in a barrel means no temp control.

296
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Life span of beer in a keg vs a bottle
« on: April 30, 2015, 02:40:19 PM »
Under the same conditions, I think bottle conditioned beer is more stable than kegged beer because the yeast in the bottle scavenge the oxygen.  However, my kegged beer is kept cold while my bottled beer is kept at cellar temps, which fluctuates significantly over the year.

297
Wood/Casks / Re: Saving a stinky barrel?
« on: April 29, 2015, 01:42:09 PM »
There will be secondary fermentation with the Brett, lacto, and pedio in the barrel.  Some of the flanders red has already been partially soured.

298
Wood/Casks / Re: Saving a stinky barrel?
« on: April 29, 2015, 11:56:36 AM »
 I tasted the water in the barrel after soaking and it tasted and smelled fine.  I've put in a storage solution and will let it soak until about the time I need the barrel.  I'll taste the storage solution to see if there is any funk.

I appreciate the comments but my tastings indicate that the flavor of the flanders red won't be negatively impacted.

299
The timing of the LME addition can also affect the color a little. 

300
Hop Growing / Re: Centennial Hops Are Not Growing
« on: April 28, 2015, 02:42:20 PM »
Pots and raised beds usually warm up faster than the ground.  The potted plants are probably warmer and so they have grown first. 

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