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Messages - kramerog

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31
Kegging and Bottling / Re: temperature and carbonation
« on: December 10, 2015, 02:14:17 PM »
Yes.  Also the beer may have been infected causing CO2 to be produced in the can.

32
Kegging and Bottling / Re: temperature and carbonation
« on: December 10, 2015, 02:01:07 PM »
CO2 is more soluble in water when it is colder.

The volumes of dissolved CO2 does not change significantly if canned or bottled beer warms up, but the pressure does increase with warmth sometimes resulting in exploding cans or bottles.

33
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Adjusting Water for 750 mg/l Hardness?
« on: December 10, 2015, 09:53:22 AM »
Portland cement could be useful here if you are not trying to make beer.  I'm not sure why you would want to raise hardness to 750 mg/l for beer purposes.

34
Beer Recipes / Re: Quadruple & the BJCP Guidelines
« on: December 07, 2015, 01:54:36 PM »

Brew it the way you want it; submit it; take a point hit for the color.


+1

35
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: blending two waters
« on: December 04, 2015, 01:27:35 PM »
Since the pH of blended water is pretty much useless info for brewing
Pardon my obvious stupidity but why is that a priori true?

Water, regardless of mineralization (within reason), has essentially no pH buffering capacity. The variables that drive mash pH are the water's residual alkalinity and the inherent acidity of the grist. Two water supplies with vastly different pH, used to mash the same grist, could come out to exactly the same mash pH.
+1.  Mash pH is important, not the pH of the source water.

36
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: blending two waters
« on: December 04, 2015, 11:14:30 AM »
You could probably get a reasonable pH estimate using the Henderson-Hasselbach equation with carbonates as the relevant ions assuming the use of flat normal drinking water.  I would just use weighted averages of the various carbonates.  This approach is better than averaging pH. Since the pH of blended water is pretty much useless info for brewing, this approach should be good enough.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


37
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto strains
« on: December 04, 2015, 08:53:41 AM »
It doesn't seem likely that you'll find a lacto strain that produces CO2 and lactic acid but not alcohol.  Here's why:

C6H12O6 -> 2 C3H6O3  -> 2C2H6O  + 2 CO2
glucose        lactic acid        ethanol      carbon dioxide

My background is chemical engineering, not microbiology, but production of CO2 from sugar by fermentation requires production of ethanol.  Perhaps there are other pathways to produce CO2.

If you find something, please let us know.

38
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: blending two waters
« on: December 04, 2015, 08:40:25 AM »
There is probably no simple answer other than who cares.  If your "friend" is blending waters for brewing the pH is generally unimportant.

39
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: how to "improve" "finished" beer?
« on: December 01, 2015, 11:42:35 AM »
Lactic or phosphoric acid can be added to acidify the beer.  I have not heard of people trying to increase the pH in finished beer but calcium carbonate, calcium hydroxide and calcium oxide should work.  The quantities to be used should be small, ml or g amounts, assuming a proper mash pH was achieved.

40
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brü's Views | On Craft Brewery Buyouts
« on: November 26, 2015, 11:02:47 AM »
My issue with these buyouts is that the value of the buyouts to the buyer is that the buyer can take an up and coming brand and then distribute it over their much wider network putting other craft brewers at a significant disadvantage.  Since the distribution networks are highly regulated, I wonder if there is a way the state governments can do anything to not put the remaining craft brewers at such a disadvantage such as raising the volumes allowed under self-distribution.

41
All Grain Brewing / Re: High gravity brewing manipulations
« on: November 24, 2015, 01:06:11 PM »
Below my signature line is a link to a calculator for parti-gyle mashing.  Most of the credit for the calculator goes to the Kaiser, but I made a tweak and a correction.  My plan this weekend is to make RIS of 1.100 with the first running (OG 1.080) and a 1.049 American stout with the second runnings with the addition of roasted barley to the the mash after the first runoff.

LME often has an extract twang so I avoid it.  DME dissolves easiest around 120 F.  At some point above that temp,  DME will clump.  The lightest color is generally best; basically you are just trying to add fermentables, not the unknown specialty grains incorporated in the darker extracts.

You are on the right track. 

Edit: Corrected LME and DME

42
The lower FG on the finer crush seems intuitive to me although I would not have predicted it before the experiment. By grinding the malt into flour, the starches are more quickly exposed to the enzymes resulting in more attenuation. 

43
Ingredients / Re: Adding sugar to primary
« on: November 18, 2015, 05:02:12 PM »
I have always just put the sugar in during the boil.

If you add the sugar during fermentation, do you need to stir the beer or just toss it in with a wide spread?
The sugar will dissolve over a few days depending on whether the ferment is stirring the beer for you.

44
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: fermenting lager in a keg
« on: November 12, 2015, 09:50:41 AM »
If the lid of your corny has a pressure relief valve it might safely vent the pressure, but it isn't wise to rely on it as the primary way to prevent the keg from exploding. 

45
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: fermenting lager in a keg
« on: November 12, 2015, 09:16:02 AM »

For fermentation, remove the gas side's short dip tube. Attach the "Gas In" disconnect to the "in" post on the keg. Now slip the tubing onto the hose barb of the disconnect. Fill your jar or growler about half full with a solution of the sanitizer of your choice. Insert the other end of the tubing in the growler and you're ready to go.

and even not do the blowoff at all?


The quoted BYO instructions provide blowoff.  Am I missing something?

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