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Messages - kramerog

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Brett in Secondary
« on: March 27, 2017, 06:49:38 AM »
I do use Brett and I don't consider myself an expert.

3. Depends on what you want.  AFAIK, all Brett strains work in secondary.
4. 3 months so that Brett finishes eating fermentables.
5. Do not crash and prime as normal. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What dissolves beerstone?
« on: March 24, 2017, 03:47:14 PM »
I just saw that the OP was posting about glass.  Some of the recommendations at the more beer link may not appropriate for glass.

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Ingredients / Re: Belgian Candy Sugar - Adding Late to The Boil?
« on: March 19, 2017, 08:19:06 PM »

Ingredients / Re: Post your water report
« on: March 15, 2017, 04:35:51 PM »
I just moved to a new city and figured I'd research what the water is like.

Rialto, Ca. 2015 Water report

Sodium (Na):                 15.3
Potassium (K):               3.5
Calcium (Ca):                 70
Magnesium (Mg):            13
Sulfate (SO4):                50
Chloride (Cl):                 8.9
Bicarbonate (HCO3):       229.7     
Total Hardness (CaCO3):  228
Total Alkalinity (CaCO3):  191

Can this very hard water be "fixed"? Or what styles is this profile suited to?
The water is probably pretty good for making dark beers with little to no mash pH adjustment.  Other beers will benefit from adjusting.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Tangy Aftertaste
« on: March 15, 2017, 08:57:20 AM »
The beer is clear. Not hazy.
I never checked ph as I didnt know I should on an extract brew.
I never noticed an infection but I only know what to look for with the ones that grow on the top of the beer in the carboy.
-You don't need to check pH for an extract-only beer.
-You should buy RO/distilled water because of the iron in your water.
-If you exclude oxygen then an infection won't form a pellicle on top of the beer.  I suspect you have an infection that becomes more noticeable as the beer warms up.

Are you using a rinse-free sanitizer?

Other Fermentables / Re: "Naturally Sweet" Cider
« on: March 09, 2017, 10:20:14 AM »
Zymurgy had an article comparing various ale yeasts.  The cider made with Wyeast 1968 London ESB/ WLP002 was sweet.  There may be others.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Is a 90 Min boil needed?
« on: March 07, 2017, 10:26:19 AM »
Bear in mind that DMS is allowable in cream ales and a small amount is almost expected.  DMS is a bigger deal in lagers because of colder fermentation.  => 60 minutes should be fine.

Ingredients / Re: question about iron filter and oxidation
« on: March 07, 2017, 09:11:43 AM »
You could also try physically filtering the iron-filtered water through a coffee filter as an experiment.

Ingredients / Re: question about iron filter and oxidation
« on: March 07, 2017, 09:10:11 AM »
The metallic iron might also just settle out to the bottom of the bucket and then could take a while to oxidize.  I don't have much of an idea of how long iron takes to oxidize at the bottom.  If the grey stuff settles out that would indicate that it can effectively filtered out.

Ingredients / Re: question about iron filter and oxidation
« on: March 07, 2017, 08:22:57 AM »
Since nobody has said replied, I'll take a shot at this.  I think the water truns gray because the iron filter produces metallic iron.  The metallic iron can then be physically filtered out.  What size pore would work to remove the iron?  I can't say.  After phrsical filtration, the water can then be carbon filtered.

If you want to check my theory, you could collect water that has gone through the iron filter and see if it turns rusty overnight or however long is appropriate.

Ingredients / Re: Warrior hops
« on: February 24, 2017, 10:41:39 AM »
I don't find Warrior to be particularly pleasant for late additions.  I do use it for bittering in IPAs.  To each their own.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Spring Water Question/Help
« on: February 22, 2017, 09:12:13 PM »
I estimated the bicarbonate value at 15 ppm and the residual alkalinity as 0 using Bru'n Water.  The calcium level is very low so you'll want to add calcium salts to get the calcium between 50-100 ppm for ales generally.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Spring Water Question/Help
« on: February 22, 2017, 11:46:53 AM »
the spring water report is what water I am going to use.  I do not have other options. This is by far the most convenient and cheapest option for me.  any suggestions for additives would be appreciate it

The water looks pretty darn good from my (novice) perspective.  To me, it appears you can brew nearly any style of beer and may only need some minor additions to tailor it specific ways:

Epsom Salt
Calcium Chloride
Acid (malt, lactic, phosphoric, sauergut, etc)

And on occasion some alkaline buffering may be needed (stouts, etc):
Baking soda or Pickling Lime

As for how much of each to use, it completely depends on the beer you'll be brewing.  Using Bru'N Water Spreadsheet is an ideal place to begin.  Plug in your water profile values, and move through the tabs with grist/volumes/water profiles, and it will give you values of each addition that best estimates the final beer water profile.  Some key pointers are: you should never be using an alkaline agent AND acid at the same time; using Bru'Ns "color-fullness" water profiles are safe choices almost every time; less is more (this translates well to life in general).

Generally agree with the above, but I don't see much need for acid given what appears to be a low alkalinity, although alkalinity was not tested. There is probably enough information in your water report to estimate the alkalinity based on an ion balance.  Alkalinity is one of the most important inputs into Bru'n Water and mash chemistry generally.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Adjust pH only with acid vs other methos
« on: February 22, 2017, 08:34:58 AM »
Adding phosphoric is an appropriate approach and perhaps the easiest and cheapest.  I prefer lactic acid as it is more concentrated, but your RA is higher than mine so that might not be appropriate for you.

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