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Messages - kramerog

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301
Ingredients / Re: Need help with Brun water
« on: November 11, 2015, 12:06:32 PM »
The number one thing is to get the right mash pH.  I don't see a mash pH listed.

The general consensus here is not to chase the water that is traditionally used to make the beer style.  I would almost never add magnesium because of the possibility of metallic off flavors.   Chloride and sulfate levels can be important but sulfate doesn't seem likely to be important in a sour beer unless it is to provide a little more sourness.  I try to avoid salt - I don't just mean NaCl - additions to avoid saltiness in sours.

My $0.02 but I don't know much about Gratzers.

302
Kegging and Bottling / Re: mason canning jars for bottling
« on: November 10, 2015, 05:19:17 PM »
Try soda bottles instead.  They are designed for higher pressure than beer bottles.

303
Ingredients / Carafa Dehusked/Special and Bru'n Water
« on: November 09, 2015, 11:15:00 AM »
If I assume that carafa dehusked/special is a roasted malt, will Bru'n water be reasonably accurate?  Since dehusked carafa is not nearly as roasty as regular roasted malts, it seems that dehusked carafa could also be less acidic than regular roasted malts.

304
All Grain Brewing / Re: Thoughts/Advice on Parti-Gyle Brewing
« on: November 06, 2015, 07:17:33 PM »
Sure if the only difference between the two worts pre-boil is strength than blending 1st and 2nd runnings is simplest.  However the difference bedtween a RIS and a regular stout is not just stregth.  They have different grain bills.

305
Equipment and Software / Re: Promash Status
« on: November 06, 2015, 01:17:04 PM »
Tried the upgrade from BeerSmith 2 from BeerSmith 1 and hated it.  Looking to try ProMash.

306
All Grain Brewing / Re: Thoughts/Advice on Parti-Gyle Brewing
« on: November 06, 2015, 12:49:49 PM »
I revised Kai's calculator to correct a bug in the boil-off volume in quarts and to add a mash volume calculation.  See the link in my signature line.  I use 98% as my conversion efficiency and have hit my numbers on or close to the nail often. 

I haven't blended the runnings.  Instead I put more effort in designing the initial mash and possibly a side mash to be blended with the initial mash after the first runnings - if the malts  for the second runnings don't require mashing then I will just cap.  My philosophy is to make the brew day as simple as possible.

You'll want a decent refractometer in any case to measure your gravities quickly.

307
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cellar Temperatures
« on: November 05, 2015, 05:10:16 PM »
kramerog do you think it didn't develop well because of the temperature and temperature swing?  RIS is typically a good style to cellar.
The life of a RIS is limited by the disappearance of roasted malts.  Strong Belgians, barleywines and old ales aren't limited in the same way.  I don't know if it is because of my warmer temperature, but the RISs become smoother and than they begin to fade.

308
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: fermentation temps after 72 hrs
« on: November 05, 2015, 11:58:25 AM »
+1 to wort-hog.

309
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash specs for high gravity
« on: November 05, 2015, 08:03:53 AM »
First runnings of a mash at 1.5 qts/lb is about 1.080 depending on the grist.  I happen to be planning a 1.100 beer right now.  I  plan to get 12.5 gals of first runnings and to boil it down to 10 gals to hit 1.100.  I also plan a second runnings beer, but haven't worked out the gravity details yet.

310
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cellar Temperatures
« on: November 03, 2015, 02:33:05 PM »
My basement varies over the course of the year between 55 and 72 F.  Cellaring of Old Ales has worked really well.  One of them took two summers to develop to the point where I like them another took only 1 year.  My Old Ales have lots of crystal.  Other styles like RIS haven't generally aged so nicely because the roast fades too much. 

311
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Shaking
« on: October 29, 2015, 02:19:55 PM »
A technique used in home winemaking was to run the wine along the side of the vessel so that the wine fanned out.  I can get the wort to cover 1/5 - 1/3 of the side of a carboy.  Not sure how effective this is but I also shake/splash.

312
Equipment and Software / Re: 20 Gallon Mash Tun / 5 Gallon batches
« on: October 29, 2015, 10:02:37 AM »
Agree with Steve above.  Your grain bed may be too thin on 5-gal batch of small beer to be a good filter. 

313
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Blending beers with Acid beer
« on: October 28, 2015, 01:19:15 PM »
Wits were sour traditionally as they did not contain hops.  Make a modern wit and try blending it with acid beer in the glass.

Thanks for the link to the presentation.  I'll have to listen the seminar too.

314
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Venting the boil
« on: October 28, 2015, 01:04:50 PM »
The better you enclose the pot and burner, the better the capture of steam and combustion gases.  I use a nylon shower curtain with some nomex panels to that end.

315
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Shaking
« on: October 27, 2015, 12:26:49 PM »
Wyeast says that 40 seconds of splashing and shaking is enough. https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_oxygenation.cfm.  To me splashing and shaking is a lot less work than shake until  turned into foam.

I just noticed that White Labs does not agree in its FAQ.

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