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Messages - kramerog

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301
Ingredients / Re: help brewing a shandy
« on: November 01, 2016, 02:40:07 PM »
Shandies are generally not brewed, Leinenkugel notwithstanding.  Shandies are usually mixed in a serving glass by adding beer to lemonade.

I've not brewed with huckelberries before.  If they are like blueberries you will need at least 1 lb/gallon for a huckelberry beer.

302
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Omega Yeast - Pro Strains
« on: October 28, 2016, 02:52:27 AM »
It seems that Northern Brewer has an exclusive on the homebrewer size of Omega's pro line.

Coincidence that Anheuser just bought Northern Brewer? I dunno.

303
Beer Recipes / Re: Cherries + Rauchbier = Style 29A or 29C?
« on: October 27, 2016, 09:57:28 PM »
32B. Specialty Smoked Beer
From the guidelines: "A Specialty Smoked Beer is either a smoked beer based on
something other than a Classic Style, or any type of smoked
beer with additional ingredients (fruits, vegetables, spices) or
processes employed that transform the beer into something
more unique."

304
The Pub / Re: Spelling and Grammar
« on: October 26, 2016, 01:56:14 PM »
The idea that a forum is like a conversation with a few friends is a false paradigm.  Since 100 people or more read a post, it makes more sense for the writer to put a little more effort into being clear than for 100 people to each put in more effort to understand.

305
This has been a topic of discussion on the MTF FB group. I emailed Five Star and got the response below.

"StarSan was tested and approved for Ecoli and Staph which are both gram-positive bacteria aka larger bacteria. So short answer no we haven't officially tested for the kill rate on yeast bacteria and mold. However knowing that StarSan kills those two bacteria in an EPA good lab practice testing I would be confident in it's effectiveness."

They never tested, just assumed.

Video appears to be theoretical rather than based on actual kill data.  Again the theory is plausible, but it isn't clear how much contact time is required.

306
Video says that contrary to myth Starsan kills yeast.  Video seems plausible to me.

307
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling a Russian Imperial Stout
« on: October 14, 2016, 06:19:11 PM »
I am not familiar with the yeast you're using, but i think it is way to much.  The last beer I bottle conditioned  I used 1tsp of CBC-1 to make a 100ml slurry.  I then used 4 tsp of the slurry and the appropriate amount of priming sugar (120grams ish) to carbonate 5 gallons of a Dark Saison I aged on fruit with Brett for 6 months to 2.5 psi.  I am by no means an expert, would hate for you to end up with a bunch of bottle bombs, just check your calculations again.

Are you sure excess yeast can cause bottle bombs?

308
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: pour in four
« on: October 13, 2016, 05:42:32 PM »
An active starter would be better, but you could make the starter with Nottingham. 

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk

309
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: pour in four
« on: October 13, 2016, 02:51:52 AM »
I've always heard that Nottingham is really fast and clean.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


310
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: pour in four
« on: October 13, 2016, 02:48:32 AM »
Might need a massive, active starter to complete fermentation particularly if you are serving the beer cold within 4 days.
Would the starter being *active* mean a SNS starter started the day before?   
It could be but I'm guessing the starter might be 0.5 gal for 5 gal batch.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


311
Other Fermentables / Re: Timing of pectic enzyme in cider fermentation
« on: October 12, 2016, 10:31:40 PM »
Pectic enzyme depending on source can be alcohol sensitive (insert proper microbiology term here) so before or at pitching is best.

312
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: pour in four
« on: October 12, 2016, 07:47:35 PM »
Might need a massive, active starter to complete fermentation particularly if you are serving the beer cold within 4 days.

313
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: less fermentable wort issue?
« on: October 12, 2016, 07:43:23 PM »
Munich II (I'm assuming 9L Munich is Munich II) is capable of self-converting but tends to result in a dextrinous wort if it is the only base malt due to low enzymatic activity.  Have you brewed this recipe before?

314
Kegging and Bottling / Re: New to kegging, need some help
« on: October 10, 2016, 09:56:38 PM »


So you should actually keep the beer and gas lines cold?

The beer line should be kept cold ideally.  The reason why I insulate the line at a picnic is to reduce the amount of foam.  It doesn't matter for the gas line.

315
Kegging and Bottling / Re: New to kegging, need some help
« on: October 10, 2016, 07:48:54 PM »
It seems that you are thinking about a lot of different scenarios.  Anyway here are my answers with my scenarios.

I generally keep kegs in my fridge or in a cold part of the basement attached to picnic taps most of the time.  I may insulate the line when I can't cool the line directly, e.g., at a picnic. When transporting a keg by car, I usually disconnect the taps to avoid accidentally opening the tap and avoid open container laws.  I reconnect the tap after spraying starsan on the connections.  Once the keg kicks I'll clean the line and tap when it is convenient, which could be weeks.

The only "disaster" I've had was accidentally putting a sour tap on a non-sour keg.

I hope this helps.

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