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Messages - kramerog

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316
Equipment and Software / Re: All Grain setup
« on: February 20, 2014, 07:52:48 PM »
I prefer fly sparging b/c I prefer less effort over the shorter brew day.  Often I eat lunch during the sparge.  I do batch sparge for parti gyle and when I brew outdoors away from my 3-tier stand.


317
Hop Growing / Re: Bine dried hops
« on: February 19, 2014, 10:47:10 AM »
Surannée hops for lambic brewing?

318
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Second hot break
« on: February 19, 2014, 09:56:21 AM »
Much solid material remained suspended in the wort.  OG was 1.050 vs. expected 1.070.  Should I have continued boiling until the hot break came?

I'm a little confused by "Much solid material remained suspended in the wort."  That sounds like the hot break.  If  the wort looked like egg-drop soup then you got hot break.

319
Ingredients / Re: Cherries
« on: February 17, 2014, 01:49:49 PM »
If you are making 5 gallons of beer then you are a low.  The range for cherries is 1-2 lbs/gal and it would be better to be close to the high end.

I haven't used canned cherries, but I suspect the only difference between water/juice and heavy syrup is just sugar.

You really think that's low for a beer this small and light? I was concerned with it being too much. I brew a tart cherry stout... the first time I used 10 lbs for 5 gallons and it took about a year to mellow out so that it tasted like a beer and not a pie. I used 7.5 this year and it was much better.

Let your taste buds be the guide unless you plan to make the beer for me.

320
Ingredients / Re: Cherries
« on: February 17, 2014, 01:41:51 PM »
If you are making 5 gallons of beer then you are a low.  The range for cherries is 1-2 lbs/gal and it would be better to be close to the high end.

I haven't used canned cherries, but I suspect the only difference between water/juice and heavy syrup is just sugar.

321
All Grain Brewing / Re: Rye Water Adsorption
« on: February 17, 2014, 11:20:06 AM »
No specific experience with rye here, but perhaps you used rice hulls which would reduce yield some.

322
All Grain Brewing / Re: Worst Efficiency Yet
« on: February 17, 2014, 11:12:30 AM »
Crush and doughballs are the number one suspects.  A possible suspect is pH, but pH can be ruled if you've made this same exact recipe before and hit your typical efficiency.  Another suspect could be that you are making a high gravity beer, which you don't normally do.

323
Going Pro / Re: Six pack can holders
« on: February 17, 2014, 08:08:27 AM »
I think they could still use the old 6 pack can holders with rings.  They are all biodegradable in N. America now.  However, I think probrewers are limited to what is available or economical for low-volume canning operations. 

324
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Craft Beer and Alcoholism
« on: February 14, 2014, 11:44:09 AM »
I still keg some of my beers, but it's so easy to just grab a mug and start pouring...and then refilling.

I know what you mean!  I'm trying to limit my drinking at home to meals and avoiding refills.  On the plus side, I can easily put a nice big head (~4 oz) on every pint I pour from the keg.


325
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Craft Beer and Alcoholism
« on: February 13, 2014, 06:38:33 PM »
I've been thinking about this topic a lot because it is one of the recent topics in Chemistry of Beer, a free online course at OU.  One of the interesting things I learned is that binge drinking, which is defined as getting drunk, is more harmful in some ways to the drinker's brain than chronic alcoholism because the binge drinker does not develop tolerance mechanisms and because of rebound effects.  Anyway my current strategy is to drink daily if I'm in the mood for a beer but to drink moderately.

As others have said, moderation is key.  It would help if more pubs have a variety of serving sizes so I can taste more beers and drink less.  I was at a winery in Napa that refused to make small pours.  That does not help although I should have not finished the samples.

One thing I'm doing right now with high alcohol beers at home is to mix them with a low alcohol beer to get  12-16 oz of a beer that has the taste of a high alcohol beer without all the alcohol.  I've been enjoying an Old Ale blended with a 70 shilling that tastes like an Old Ale.

326
Ingredients / Re: Chateau Abbey Malt
« on: February 12, 2014, 09:55:25 AM »
I think it is similar to Munich in some ways, or maybe I'm confusing it with MFB's Abbey malt.

327
Equipment and Software / Re: Immersion Chiller question
« on: February 11, 2014, 07:44:38 AM »
IIRC faster is good until you have 100F or so, at which time you should slow it down for a chance for more heat exchange.

+ 1.  Fast is good initially in part because it helps induce natural convection in the wort.

328
Equipment and Software / Re: Extendo-mometer?
« on: February 11, 2014, 07:39:42 AM »
Is it possible to bend the probe so that it goes in the water?  Cons:  1. You could break the probe.  I don't know enough about how probes to work to have an opinion about the feasibility of bending the probe. 2.  Even if the probe touches the water it might not be somewhere that gives a representative value without mixing.

I bet if you went to McMaster Carr you could find a thermometer that is already bent.


329
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Using Lactobacillus in my Gose
« on: February 09, 2014, 06:13:15 PM »
I've made two no boil Berliner Weisses.  If you use a commercial culture, whether Wyeast or White Labs, the lacto only eats glucose so you don't have to worry about stability IIRC.  I've bottled one of my no boil BWs without any issues.

This year I'm thinking of doing a no boil using malt as the source of lacto.  I plan to keg this one.

330
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Technical meeting ideas
« on: February 06, 2014, 02:40:55 PM »
Are you having a meeting just for technical topics or are you adding technical topics to a regular homebrew meeting?

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