Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - kramerog

Pages: 1 ... 20 21 [22] 23 24 ... 68
316
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Using Lactobacillus in my Gose
« on: February 09, 2014, 06:13:15 PM »
I've made two no boil Berliner Weisses.  If you use a commercial culture, whether Wyeast or White Labs, the lacto only eats glucose so you don't have to worry about stability IIRC.  I've bottled one of my no boil BWs without any issues.

This year I'm thinking of doing a no boil using malt as the source of lacto.  I plan to keg this one.

317
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Technical meeting ideas
« on: February 06, 2014, 02:40:55 PM »
Are you having a meeting just for technical topics or are you adding technical topics to a regular homebrew meeting?

318
The Pub / Re: Interesting post on hops by Stan Hieronymus
« on: February 06, 2014, 08:24:49 AM »
A friend and I are planning on brewing professionally and we have checked on hop availability, most of the popular varieties are already on contract at least 2 years out. Sure we could buy from a smaller supplier but pay out the wazoo for them.

For a while, I've been thinking that the explosion in microbreweries won't last very long.  I wonder if hop availability will be one of the reasons that the explosion slows down.

319
The Pub / Re: Interesting post on hops by Stan Hieronymus
« on: February 06, 2014, 08:15:06 AM »
What is new is not that American craft beer has lot of hops, but that it now uses the majority of hops grown in the US.  It's no wonder that the hop growers are catering to craft beer and homebrew.

320
Equipment and Software / Re: I've got an idea for an experiment
« on: February 05, 2014, 04:35:42 PM »
I checked Perry's Handbook which supports what I say (stirring your boil kettle when heating with steam will decrease time to get to boil while stirring a direct-fired boil kettle does not).   Per Perry's, the overall heat transfer for steam heating water in a tubular heat exchanger is 400-1000 BTU/(F ft2 h) while for atmospheric hot air heating water (closest thing to combustion I could find) it is 10-50. 

321
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Temperature variation - OK?
« on: February 04, 2014, 08:32:46 AM »
Take a gravity reading and see if you have a problem before trying to fix it. If it was high 70's for a few days, might be done.

What he said.  It isn't necessary for big Belgians to hit 80F.

322
The Pub / Re: Be glad....
« on: February 03, 2014, 12:24:24 PM »
What's worse is that the testing probably involved a Thermapen too.

323
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Quantity vs. OG
« on: February 03, 2014, 11:10:09 AM »
Mixing would be the first suspect.  A second suspect is that you need to correct your OG for temperature.  Hydrometers are generally calibrated for 60 or 68 F.  If the wort was 80 F, for example, there would be a large upwards correction.

324
Equipment and Software / Re: Thermapen Open Box sale
« on: January 31, 2014, 05:34:33 PM »
Why get a Thermapen when there are other instruments from Thermoworks that are just as accurate and FAR less expensive?

I feel the need for speed!

Sent from my SGH-T839 using Tapatalk 2


325
All Grain Brewing / Re: First All Grain Brew ... Advice?
« on: January 31, 2014, 01:54:55 PM »
I probably sound like a noob, but what do you mean plenty of O2?
Aerate the wort before adding yeast to promote healthy fermention. There are various methods. Rock the fermenter back and forth, stir vigorously if it's in a bucket, inject air with an aquarium pump if you're higher tech, or use an O2 tank if you're really slick.

Open fermentation for a few days would work to get adequate oxygen into the wort and you won't have to worry about the buggies because of the high alcohol.  I like to do my big beers in a bucket and stir the beer well after 12 hours of fermentation to get more oxygen into it.

For a beer this big, your yeast is going to need some added yeast nutrients.  You can put a heaping tablespoon of spent yeast into the boil to provide all the nutrients needed.

326
Equipment and Software / Thermapen Open Box sale
« on: January 31, 2014, 11:15:45 AM »
$ 74 rather than $95 (?) with full warranty.  http://www.thermoworks.com/products/thermapen/splashproof_thermapen_open_box_sale_jan_2014.html

I also got the silicone boot which I had not seen before.  It was a bit of an impulse buy for me.

327
Equipment and Software / Re: All Grain setup
« on: January 31, 2014, 10:22:52 AM »
I had a rubbermaid and was not happy about how short its life was.  It began bulging and cracking after only a few uses.  I'm much happier with my rectangular cooler. So far no cracks, cross my fingers.

328
All Grain Brewing / Re: DMS causes
« on: January 27, 2014, 11:08:00 AM »
Boiling off 1.25 gallons over 90 minutes for a 4-gal batch is plenty vigorous.  I boil off around ~1.5 gals for a 10-gal batch in the same time period without DMS issues with pilsener malt.

329
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cooling down the wort
« on: January 26, 2014, 09:13:21 PM »
As a general rule, it is a good idea to cool your wort to 65 F or below for ales before pitching.  Cool your wort to 90 F (for example) and add cold water at 35-40 F (for example) to get in the 62-65 F range.  Your yeast may take a little longer to ferment, but will be better for having been cooler.

330
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sparging a Berliner Weisse
« on: January 26, 2014, 09:05:29 PM »
Your sparge water very likely has alkalinity and possibly a lot of alkalinity which does more than dilute the acidity but also neutralizes some of it. 

I recommend adding more water, removing the bag if you haven't done so to make more room for additional water, and let the souring continue.  pH is not a very good way to measure acidity but if the pH is not below 3 then you're not done.  Let taste be your guide.

Pages: 1 ... 20 21 [22] 23 24 ... 68