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Messages - kramerog

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Equipment and Software / Re: Custom Glassware
« on: August 09, 2013, 07:33:41 AM »

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: August 08, 2013, 03:08:01 PM »
I don't preheat my mash tun with boiling water. 

Is there any downside to preheating the mash tun? Equipment issue perhaps?

Preheating is an unnecessary step.  I believe most of my heat loss is due to evaporation and not to my cooler/mash tun anyway.

You don't have to preheat with boiling water; you could preheat with water at 150 F if you are worried about damaging your mash tun.. 

Going Pro / Re: Brewing for food commercially
« on: August 08, 2013, 02:27:48 PM »
A few thoughts:
  • I think the problem for the homebrewing is that you are selling the beer to the food company. 
  • On the other hand, there is such a thing as wine for cooking which is basically wine with a lot of salt that does not appear to be regulated when sold to consumers, but might be regulated while made.
  • You are potentially regulated by both the Delaware and the feds.  You have to look at the specifics of both Delaware and federal law.  You could write a letter to the relevant authority in Delaware to get their interpretation.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: August 08, 2013, 02:27:23 PM »
I don't preheat.  I add 6-8 degrees (8 in winter, 6 in summer) to the calculated mash temp to compensate for evaporation while mixing the water and malt.  I cover the tun because evaporation is the biggest source of heat loss.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Acid Rest Question
« on: August 08, 2013, 07:22:01 AM »
The ferulic acid rest is within the phytase rest.  The phytase (acid) rest is done to lower the pH.  But according to Palmer, "The acid rest is not used nowadays because it can take several hours for this enzyme to lower the mash pH to the desired 5.0 - 5.5 range." See

Events / Re: Question about competition judging
« on: August 06, 2013, 11:30:42 AM »

And it's true, after a couple beers the judges will often end up in lockstep and after judging independently will find that they are making the same comments and scoring them the same.

Lockstep is interesting.  To the extent that judges are trying to mirror each other then lockstep is not necessarily a good thing.  To the extent that judges are in lockstep because they have a common (hopefully correct) understanding of the style, which is often not the case initially, lockstep is generally good.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Gelatin First Try
« on: August 06, 2013, 08:01:10 AM »
Anybody ever notice any issue with Hop presence after gelatin. Have an IPA that needs to go on tap now and was thinking of doing the gelatin but I don't want to strip any of the hop aroma from the beer.

Gelatin removes some hop presence if only because the yeast has adsorbed hop oils.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Is liquid yeast significantly better?
« on: August 01, 2013, 01:12:17 PM »
I don't know whether this makes a discernible difference in 5G of beer but, IMO, this makes liquid yeast better.

If it doesn't make a discernible difference, why would it matter?

I just don't want to intentionally add more microorganisms or take the chance of them contributing some flavor.  Again, I don't know if it makes a diffence but I'd rather not chance it.

I would guess that the amount of beer-spoiling bacteria that is introduced into my beers from the environment of my brewery is much bigger than the amount in the yeast, liquid or dry.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop varieties for a warmer world
« on: July 31, 2013, 08:32:21 AM »
Actually I was thinking more of European hop growing areas, plus my mental picture of Oregon is a cooler version of a rain forest, but I guess the hops grow better in the eastern half of the state.

The Willamette valley is in western Oregon.  Plenty of water supply whether directly from rain or indirectly by irrigation from the Willamette and its tributaries.

The Willamette valley is said to be similar to the Hallertau, so it is a little more moderate than the Yakima valley. They use drip irrigation on the hops in Yakima, don't know about the Willamette. Somewhere I read that in general, lower AA aroma hops do well in the Willamette, and high AA hops in Yakima.

I've heard that Oregon claims to grow hops with better aroma (low and high alphas) than Washington/Yakima, but Yakima has higher hop productivity per acre.


After 3 days i will rack 2 gallons into a separate fermenter and add 1 gallon of unhopped wort to bring the 3 gallons up to 1.048 (and thus dilute the IBU's from 12 to 8]. By my calculation this is equal to about 1.5 lbs of light DME. At this point I pitch my bugs and strap on my Brew Belt to kick the lacto into gear. This way I also get some flavor and mouthfeel contributions from the 3711, but add some food back for the lacto.
So, does this sound reasonable? Am I missing anything obvious?

I don't think your plan for souring will work.  Not sure what specific lacto strain you'll be using, but I doubt you'll get much sourness from the lacto as the yeast will eat up the fermentables in your unhopped wort.   Also heating up already fermented wort sounds like a bad idea.  It would make more sense to sour the unhopped wort and then add it to the 2 gallons of fermented wort.

Equipment and Software / Re: Chilling idea - thoughts and suggestions
« on: July 30, 2013, 09:04:37 AM »
Water baths are easy ways to drop the wort temp in a few hours (faster than fridge).  So far this year I haven't had to use a water bath to reach pitching temp as the water supply has stayed warm.

Recircing is waste of ice if the water being recirced is warmer than your well water.  When you switch to ice water, you may not want to recirc right away.  My experience was without a pump; I was just letting ice water drain by gravity from my mash tun through the immersion cooler so YMMV.


Equipment and Software / Re: Carbonating with Diffusion Stone
« on: July 30, 2013, 07:48:40 AM »
If there is too much pressure, you could blow the stone or hose off.

Beer Recipes / Re: Partial Mash English IPA
« on: July 29, 2013, 08:14:21 AM »
Similar to what Morticai said, your mash is excessively thick.  For a partial mash, I would skip the sparge but add all the sparge water in with the mash.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 1st all Brett beer
« on: July 26, 2013, 10:45:48 AM »
I usually assume brett will work SG down to 1.002 in the bottle, so figure in the difference between your current gravity and 1.002 when calculating priming sugar weight. If you want to be conservative, just assume 1.000 as FG.

Since berliner weisse is normally consumed rather quickly (like any light wheat-based beer), I would only be concerned about additional carbonation if you're going to cellar a few bottles for 6 months or more. In that case, just fill a few heavy duty bottles.
Just so I'm clear, if I plan to keep the bottle for less than 6 months then calculate the amount of priming sugar in the usual way.  If more than 6 months, factor in the difference between the current gravity and an assumed gravity, say 1.002, in the priming calculations.  Did I get it right?

Do you have a recommendation for a priming calculator capable of factoring in the gravity?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 1st all Brett beer
« on: July 25, 2013, 03:04:11 PM »
I have a no-boil Berliner Weiss that I sour-worted before pitching Brett as the only yeast.  The fermentation has slowed considerably and the gravity is about 1.006.  A split of this had an F.G. of 1.003.  How do I calculate the amount of bottling sugar so I get 3-3.5 v/v of carbonation while avoiding bottle bombs?

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