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Messages - kramerog

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331
All Things Food / Re: How to Chill a Drink in 1 Minute
« on: December 07, 2014, 10:49:47 AM »
I call shenanigans. The ice was melted before salt was added. At that point, all you are doing is making salty water. The salt does not magically make the water colder.
I call bull shenanigans. 

A miraculous technique for cooling a beverage in 10 seconds is to put ice in a glass and then pour the beverage over ice.

332
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Blending Brews
« on: December 07, 2014, 10:39:25 AM »
I blend beers of the same style together by combining kegs.  For example, I will make two to 3 single hop beers at a time (same wort) and do a hopstand and once I'm getting low I will combine the kegs and get a new beer.  I try blending the different beers in a glass just to make sure that'll work out first.

I tend to blend beers of different styles in my glass for fun, for exploration, because I want to drink a RIS but want a lower alchohol content, etc.

333
All Grain Brewing / Re: Adjusting a stout after kegging
« on: December 01, 2014, 09:14:09 PM »
Sharpness can be eliminated with an alkali like baking soda, pickling lime, and milk of magnesia or even 5.2.   The problem is that it is easy to overdose with an alkali as the pH can change unpredictably without doing a little testing on a sample beforehand.  However, unless you have a high precision scale doing testing on a sample is not too helpful.  Here is what I would do:  Measure 2-3 grams of baking soda, which is gentler than the other alkalis listed above.  Eyeball a 1/10 of that, add directly to keg, purge keg headspace and shake.  Taste the beer and repeat additions as necessary.

I don't have any experience with 5.2 but it would probably be harder to overdose with it than an alkali.

Edit: 5.2 appears to be primarily monobasic potassium phosphate.  It should work better than baking soda but if I didn't have any on hand I would use use baking soda.

334
It's the cream rising the top.  Yes, it is pellicle, probably Brett, possibly lacto.  I usually give Brett several months without giving it much thought or attention.  If you are kegging and you like what you are tasting now you could keg it right away and keep it in your keezer or whatever.  If you are bottling you have to the Brett time to ferment otherwise you will probably end up with bottle bombs,

335
Ingredients / Re: Onion in my IPA
« on: November 20, 2014, 07:59:34 AM »
I've used Summit once without any onion in a hop stand and the beer was delicious.  I've heard that copper will eliminate the sulfur compounds that gives the onion character.

336
Wood/Casks / Re: Barrel Aged beer tastes like charcoal
« on: November 17, 2014, 08:01:31 AM »
That has happened to me too with a saison in a red wine barrel.  For me it is more of a light charcoal flavor, which I don't care for.  I add a little red wine to the saison and the beer is harmonious again.

337
I will probably ferment near 78F following the recommendation in Yeast for drying out big beers.  Others putting their beer in the barrel will probably ferment at a lower temp since they don't have good temp control unless the temp takes off on them.  We'll see what happens.

Sent from my SGH-T839 using Tapatalk 2

338
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mash Out Fermentability Question
« on: November 13, 2014, 08:28:53 AM »
You will get some continued enzyme activity during the heating to boiling thinning the beer out a little.  If you are generally happy with your results don't change it because of theoretical concerns.  If you want a bigger body then mash at a higher temperature.

For example, when mashing @ 149-150 for 'light body' and 'maximum fermentability,' is the absence of mash out effectively nullifying the lower mash temp process as the wort post-mash is slowly raised to boiling temp?

No.

339
All Grain Brewing / Re: Parti-Gyle Brew - RIS & Oatmeal Stout
« on: November 13, 2014, 08:21:00 AM »
For parti-gyle, I prefer not to fly sparge although I generally fly sparge for entire brewing and use the BrauKaiser's parti-gyle simulator.  I find that I can get very accurate results from the simulator for the 1st and 2nd runnings.  http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Batch_Sparge_and_Party_Gyle_Simulator.  I haven't had as much success with Randy Mosher's technique. 

I share the concerns of the other posters.  Consider doing a short mini-mash of oats with additional base malts  and then throwing the mini-mash on top of the grain bed for the second running.

340
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Repitching Wyeast 3724
« on: November 11, 2014, 10:51:31 AM »
Kyle, what temperature have you been fermenting at?  I've fermented with 3724 in the high 80s which makes me concerned about repitching yeast in poor health.

Anyone have experience repitching 3724 after a high temperature fermentation?

341
Pimp My System / Re: Upright Keezer build
« on: November 09, 2014, 03:44:51 PM »
Awesome!

342
I was out of the hobby for five years beginning the early 2000s.  The perceived wisdom had changed a lot plus there a lot more ingredient choices.  Also the hobby is potentially a lot more expensive than it used to be.  Also there are a lot more homebrewers and homebrew clubs.

Be open to relearning your craft.  Get to know your local homebrew store. Buy some of the basics so you can brew from there. Join your local homebrew club or two or three.  Buy some used equipment when others upgrade their equipment.  Join some group buys.  Craigslist is a good idea.  Good luck and have fun.

343
Equipment and Software / Re: Weldless valve for kettle
« on: November 08, 2014, 08:38:18 PM »
My valve kit included a flame shield, to place under the pot by the valve.  I hardly ever use it.

344
Beer Recipes / Re: IBU Calculations
« on: November 07, 2014, 03:31:26 PM »
If you do a full boil you should get a bitterer beer because the kits are generally designed for partial boils.  Of course the kits don't specify the amount of water to use. 

Beersmith uses Tinseth so I think that you may misentered something somewhere. http://www.beersmith.com/Help/estimating_bitterness_tech.htm

345
Ingredients / Re: Big Alcohol, Little Knowledge
« on: November 06, 2014, 03:49:24 PM »



if you can work it I would brew a small dry stout with the Irish yeast and pitch about 1/3 to 1/2 of the resulting cake into this beer to start.

What do you mean by cake? Just the remnants left in the brewpot?

Cake is the yeast cake from fermenting another beer.

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